matth76
-
Content Count
1,460 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by matth76
-
Is heat wrap or a heat shield better for the 6 branch (if a heat 'shield' is best - where would it be situated in the engine bay)? I've read on here heat shielding or heat wrap is vital. What colour is heat wrap normally? Also, how quicker a job is it to change engine mounts - what kind of price? Is it easier to do the mounts while the 6 branch is fitted or can it be done at a later date? Are they only the engine mounts directly under where the manifold will be or is it ALL the engine mounts that need to be replaced? Cheers for any help guys.
-
Do you have a cat bypass / decatted exhaust? Very common on decats. My exhaust (which isn't decat - it's a Milltek with high flow cat) occasionally pops when I put my foot down and then suddenly let off the power. It's just the waste exhaust gas flowing through the exhaust at different rates (I'm sure someone on here has a better explanation!) Nothing to worry about I'd have thought. If you are running big power as you may with a sc then build up of gasses can develop and are let out when you go down a gear as you let off the power temporarily - some extreme high power cars even get flame
-
Stealth, The Phirm, Storm Developments - all say the VR6 is naturally tappety and slightly noisier than average. Even more so when it's cold. "Doesn't pull as hard as it should" lol every car is different!!... what a load of rubbish. They're trying to knock the price down mate.
-
Still sounds much better. Certainly pays to source parts ourselves sometimes. I will ask if they're doing my stem seals too. Is that an easy part to do while doing the head gasket or is it actually part of the process? How much would it be to do these as well do you reckon?
-
How much did you pay and who did it? I may ask to see if I can get a bit knocked off the price. You've just had all timing chains / gasket/ 6 branch mani and cams done for under a grand? Sounds like a good deal mate. Other people on here have said I had an excellent deal getting the head gasket and chains all done for
-
Storm Developments is fitting mine. It's one of their own make apparently - completely stainless and used on their race engines. They're doing my chains and tensioners and replacing my head gasket... and fitting a 6 branch exhaust manifold at the same time. All in all expensive at
-
Thanks guys. How much did you pay to have yours supplied and fitted? Mines costing
-
Hi I'm having a 6 to 2 to 1 stainless steel branch exhaust manifold fitted. Is this a good modification and what kind of power gains are expected if any? Will the drivability / throttle response be improved? I also need to know what kind of heat wrap is required or whether some kind of heat shield is better but if so where would it be situated? And do the engine mounts underneath where the manifold will be need to be replaced or is this not really necessary - or do ALL the engine mounts in the engine bay need replacing? Is this something that can be done at a later date or is it far easier
-
Are the uprated con rod bolts the same bolts used to clamp the gasket or are these different bolts? Do you or does anyone know how much ARP uprated conrod bolts or ARP headstuds are? Would uprated bolts be better than uprated headstuds then? Cheers Matt
-
Is there a pic still available?
-
There was a thread on here (I think it was the link pointed out above) and on the guide there is a photo that made it very clear which one I had. If you know where the throttle body you will be able to tell if you have an ODB2 (I'm not sure about what the ODB1 engine bay looks like) anyway the throttle body is at the back of the engine bay on the top sitting at the end of the piping coming from the air filter (if that makes any sense!). If you have an ODB2 the throttle body should have a thin black plating on one side (the left / driver side) and the right side which is the majority of the t
-
Can anyone help? What kind of psi boost would be required to reach 300bhp? Are we talking around 8psi or less? What other internal uprated components could I have replaced while my head gasket is being done other as well as head studs? Are fitting new rods easy to do while the head gasket is being done? Basically I want to take this opportunity to make my engine lump as strong and reliable as possible while my head gasket is being done as it's not often half the engine is taken apart !dodge Thanks for any help. Cheers guys.
-
Thanks. I'll ask them to see if they can include them too. Do the head studs make it a much better seal? Are there any other parts that I could ask them to upgrade to tougher ones while they are doing the head gasket... such as bolts or anything similar? Are they likely to need to skim the gasket before fitting it?
-
Thanks for all your replies guys. Will 10psi boost easily see my car reaching the 300bhp mark (with other mods of course)? I'm beginning to think sticking with the standard ratio of 10:1 will be fine and it will be much tougher due to it being a metal head gasket... am I right in thinking this that the engine block will be tougher due to the replacement of the standard head gasket (which is mainly made of plastic) with that of a metal one? I'm having the gasket replaced due to slight signs of dampness around the engine block where the head gasket is. Storm Developments said replacing it with
-
Yeah you may be right. Going for 8:5:1 may be a bit radical... i.e only if I was going for very high power. I'm only looking for 300bhp which is ample. I don't really want to go much over due to lack of traction making it pointless. Although 8:5:1 is the toughest and able to withstand the most boost, I agree the higher compression ratio of 9:0:1 may be a bit more sensible and perfectly adequate. Does anyone know how much power loss I may get in total with this lowered compression ratio while my car is still standard (i.e without a charger)?
-
Hi I'm having a metal head gasket fitted to my Golf VR6 this week as opposed to the less reliable standard plastic head gasket. The garage has said if I want to get a supercharger fitted in the future it could be an ideal time now to fit a lower compression ratio thicker metal head gasket at the same time (for no extra cost). The head gasket I'll be getting will be metal no matter what ratio I decide on. My question is should I just stick with the standard compression ratio of 10:1 or should I have a lower compression ratio of either 9:0:1 or even lower at 8:5:1 which ultimately would be able
-
Thanks mt. Gives me a bit of peace of mind Anyone else? Cheers.
-
Nerih are you running a lower compression ratio metal gasket to handle your increase in power? How do you reckon my car (which is totally stock) will handle say an 8:5:1 compression ratio head gasket... without a supercharger? I'm getting a charger in a few months but need my car to be at least drivable between now and then. !dodge
-
Thanks for your reply. The link you posted seems to relate to Ebay though which has reviews about their old company name (Volkspert)... but there are plenty of good reviews about them as well as the usual few that aren't so good. Thanks for letting me know. Although I'd defintely like to hear from anyone who has had personal experience with Storm... good or bad please let me know. Does anyone know how my car (which doesn't have a supercharger yet) will feel with an 8:5:1 ratio? What other ratio could I go for? 9:0:1? However the downside I assume is it can only handle up to about 13 or 1
-
Does anyone know what my car will actually feel like to drive with a lower compression (8:5:1) ration metal gasket while my car is stock (i.e without a supercharger)? Will my car in total actually lose power or will it simply all shift further up the rev range? Has anyone else had a thicker metal gasket prior to fitting their supercharger? How did your car feel? Cheers for any help.
-
According to Storm Developments who know Carpi in person his 580bhp bi-turbo beast is actually running on stock internals!! Unbelievable. Basically all that has been done is to lower the compression ratio with a thicker metal head gasket. Obviously everything else 'around' the engine has been thoroughly upgraded. The VR lump is a tough old thing!
-
Hi I asked them that today and they said they don't but have access to one at a local place. However I'll probably take mine to Stealth as they charged me
-
Storm Developments have just quoted me
-
Stutter problem, car not me!
matth76 replied to Tony_Pedwell's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Could be the plugs (I had a similar problem - turned out Caffyns had not tightened ALL size of my plugs - once fully tightened the problem disappeared - I'm never taking it back to the main dealers!) Could also be your HT leads and their connections to your coilpack or distributor (if you have an early golf). -
Hi Today I visited Storm Developments to get a second opinion on my 'possible' timing chain rattle. Turns out my car does have a faint rattle and is showing the early signs of timing chains wearing out. My car has done just under 76k miles... anyway there was a slight dampness around the engine block where the headgasket is... so all in all not brilliant. The stock head gasket is mainly made of plastic... no wonder they wear out. My gasket may be ok but to be safe I'm getting it all done. Anyway, Storm quoted me a total