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jezmoz

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Everything posted by jezmoz

  1. gutted for you mate... I would defo take it back to the garage, sounds like the chain tensioner snapped took the timing out and possibly bent some internals. Chains might be the least of your worries. Only way to check it have the head apart and check.
  2. Park your dub up and bring your Family for a proper day out in one of the most picturesque places in the United Kingdom. Chatsworth is 8 miles north of Matlock off the B6012. It is 16 miles from the M1 Junction 29, signposted via Chesterfield (follow brown signs), 42 miles from the M6 Junction 19 and 30 mins from Chesterfield rail station. details can be found at http://www.chatsworth.org/ AA route planner http://www.theaa.com/travelwatch/planner_main.jsp Approximate driving times from places in the UK to Chatsworth: Bakewell: 10 mins Matlock: 20 mins Buxton: 25 mins Chesterfield: 25 mins
  3. wait until it dries out mate. Use something to dry it? I did this but luckily it was a hot sunny day so i left the bonnet open and it ran the same once dried out.
  4. i hate smoothed rear handles on four doors
  5. sounds like the temp sensor ( brown multiplug) has had it mate try replacing that.
  6. does sound like a flat battery with the clicking noise, What are you trying to jump it with? You'll need something half decent in terms of power to jump start it, put the negative jump lead onto a metal part of the engine bay and not the battery, You might have had the door ajar for sometime whilst working on it, interior light may have been on and flattened the battery? Let us know how you get on.
  7. In association with Dub-Unit.com. The house has re-opened to the public , we will be meeting in the car park near the coach car park as per usual. Chatsworth is 8 miles north of Matlock off the B6012. It is 16 miles from the M1 Junction 29, signposted via Chesterfield (follow brown signs), 42 miles from the M6 Junction 19 and 30 mins from Chesterfield rail station. details can be found at http://www.chatsworth.org/ AA route planner http://www.theaa.com/travelwatch/planner_main.jsp Approximate driving times from places in the UK to Chatsworth: Bakewell: 10 mins Matlock: 20 mins Buxton: 25
  8. you need all the parts from the 2.8.. you need the ecu/key immobiliser/wiring loom from the 2.8 you got or any other 2.8 OBD1. I would think the 2.9 ecu is for the abf lump?
  9. the pics are so sh1t, can't really give comment..get some decent pics up
  10. sounds like vandalism to me ...unless the bolt in the side of the door has come out/loose/snapped?
  11. well from a personal point of view when you buy a 2.8 ltr car you should expect to pay through the nose for petrol, Plus the 'gas' stations are few and far between, i've never seen one. And yes diesel costs more but you get more miles. Just put V power in and drive like a granny, spend the 2k on a supercharger j/k or more sensibly a second economic 'daily' driver and use the VR on special occasions??
  12. i wouldn't touch it, just sell the vr and get a tdi and chip it
  13. what splits are they? I just used a socket set, takes time but a gun will shear them.
  14. oops http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?220728
  15. see here chap...just beacuse it's obd2 doesn't mean it has the later upper tensioner and single chain. But the upper tensioner bolt that is off the later obd2 can be used on either. obd1 or obd2 engine (double or single chain). You'd be better replacing the upper chain tensioners as well for the all plastic non rivet tensioners.
  16. again answered my own question http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?191986.post
  17. can you not use the later bolt then on earlier engines???? mines 180865
  18. been given these numbers bolt is under...... 021 109 507 a and there is another one with the same number but a B on the end. The number for the seal is.............. N 013 827 1 am i right in thinking that the B bolt is the one i require???????
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