FishWick

Cheers mate. It's not bad for someone who welds and wires up food preperation machinery for a living :-) This and my previous pipe were the only times he's ever welded exhausts. He should do that for a living instead!
LOL, yours will be fine, although if you're using MIG, you'll never get the welds as tight as that, but do you know what seperates a good weld from a bad weld? An angle grinder ;-)
Yeah the red block is an SX fuel regulator. The wire and sensor on it are for my in dash fuel pressure display.

Crank trigger wheel is 60-2 and MS should support all the stock sensors except MAF (and knock), so you'll need a map sensor instead, although as ITBs have no plenum, mapping them can be tricky. You might end up using throttle position only as the load measurement.
I've run a DTA S80 on 12 and 24V VR6s with great success so you should be fine with the squirt.

Bill Schimmel does 4" MAF housings, and indeed I have a spare one. I'll give it to Vince to experiment with on some customers cars. It's OBD2 only though. OBD1 MAFs need custom housings made up and takes a bit of chopping up of the MAF to remove the sensor. OBD2 sensors just unscrew. 4" MAFs should give up to 17psi support, but the MAF tables need remapping to suit.
You guys speak like the MAF is the all seeing power and the cure to all your problems. I'm afraid it isn't. What sensors do you think the ECU falls back on when the MAF fails, which is frequently on forced induced engines? Yep, lambda and TPS. MAFs cause problems on standard engines, let alone S/C'd ones.
Which ever way you look at it, the main problem is not the MAF, but rather the ECU's inability to deal with boost. A standalone with a MAP sensor and boost compensation map would solve all of these problems.
Consider the cost of endless remaps chasing small problems against a standalone. It makes sense.
What ever Vince does (and he's doing a lot on this behind the scenes) seems to be met with sceptism and ungratefulness. He didn't design the ECU or the S/C kits, he's trying his best on a workaround. He's the good guy and was the only person willing to do the maps. The other companies were too worried about their reputations and refused to get involved. Some of you won't remember the GIAC chips that came with the kits originally. It's a shame you can't compare a GIAC map to one of Vince's to get an idea!!! Chalk and cheese.
And before anyone says it, 1.8T ECUs were designed to run boost from day one, but even so, if a MAF goes on a 1.8T, you can say goodbye to piston 3.
So the choices are, a workaround, or the real deal. A proper ECU with MAP and boost compensation, or flogging the dead horse stock ECU. It's up to you. VR6 S/Cs will never be 100% using the stock management.
Just a suggestion, but have you considered approaching DTA for a group buy? They've just launced the all new S series ECUs, which have tonnes of features and tuning scope.
I used to be very pro standard management, but trust me, standalones knock them into the middle of next week.

Cheers Tom. Yeah it's the 3.0. Vince said it's not quite as punchy initially as the 2.9 as the turbo is having to fill a 106cc bigger hole and it's still tight, but once it's fully loosened up and I fit a more restrictive throttle for the short intake, I should get some urgency back in the lower rpms again, but yeah, it's very progressive. The torque curve is like table top mountain :-)
Sorry about broadcasting the manifold prob, I figured a few of us are using them and wanted them to check it first to avoid the issue I had. I guessed they're all the same so didn't mention it to you first, but it's sortable without the need to replace it. No offense intended, it's a great manifold and Stealth commmented on it's robustness and ability to expel waste gases compared to a lot of lesser ones they've seen in their time.
How about this for some marshmallow toasting ability?

Time to get the jacket back on I guess, but I keep hearing tales of GT housings cracking when using them. Have you heard of this?

Fair enough mate    The MSD coils are huge though!  Yes they weren't as reliable as the stock coils.  2 failed on me.  Gave up on importing them after that and I noticed no difference what so ever using them either. 
 
People use them because they can run a bigger spark, but it makes no difference.  Stock coils with suitable plugs gapped properly is all you need.  Just like you burn a house down with a match, if the air/fuel ratio is correct, you only need a small spark to ignite it
 
The Bosch coilpack worked well for me over 60K miles with a turbo.  It doesn't crack like the original VR6 one does, but I think the spark strength is roughly the same.  It worked really really well and looked factory, which I like personally

Stealth Racing recently mapped a standard MK5 engine to 290hp.  Admittedly it was in a Corrado though, and they did say that was a little higher than what they normally see, but it's possible.  300hp is a stretch without cams and probably a short runner intake.  The standard intake is the main bottle neck on this engine.

850-900 isn't too bad, just watch it doesn't climb too far past 1000 on boost.  Try adding a bit more cruise timing if you want the egts a bit lower.  For example, on my VR Turbo with flat top 8.5:1 forged pistons, I was able to run 40 deg advance at low loads at 80ish mph.  That knocked the EGTs down a bit.   Stock timing is around mid 30s up there, but is 10:1 CR. 
 
There's a fine line with EGTs.  Running rich can increase them, running too lean can increase them, you just need to find the sweet spot with the right AFR and timing.

If I was to do it all over again, I would get Mahle 142S pistons with 23mm wrist pins and find a machine shop that can replicate the factory honing - with a torque plate.  
 
That will give you a nicely sealed and very strong bottom end.

Low comp on NA will run fine, but engine braking will suffer a bit and it won't feel as lively at the bottom end.

They will....providing the overlap forced induction friendly.   Schrick 268s are OK.  263s better.
 
As for valves, I fitted a Schimmel head with +1mm oversize Inconel valves, a set of 263s and running exactly the same boost pressure (11psi, GT35R) I found an extra 50hp, so breathing mods can and do work.

/\ This is true.  One of the reasons rods bend is because excessive back pressure fills a cylinder and almost 'hydro-locks' the piston....and something has to give....usually the rod.   Seen plenty of S shaped ones come out of big turbo 1.8Ts that use sh1tty manifolds that don't flow enough.

They will....providing the overlap forced induction friendly.   Schrick 268s are OK.  263s better.
 
As for valves, I fitted a Schimmel head with +1mm oversize Inconel valves, a set of 263s and running exactly the same boost pressure (11psi, GT35R) I found an extra 50hp, so breathing mods can and do work.

/\ This is true.  One of the reasons rods bend is because excessive back pressure fills a cylinder and almost 'hydro-locks' the piston....and something has to give....usually the rod.   Seen plenty of S shaped ones come out of big turbo 1.8Ts that use sh1tty manifolds that don't flow enough.

Yeah standard Edition 30s are mapped very flat.  Remapped, completely different animal and VERY fast.
 
Yeah Stealth's demo car made 360hp from 9psi iirc.  My own build made 392hp from 11psi (GT35R).  Why is that so hard to believe?  You take a standard VR6 engine that makes 200hp from one atmosphere.  Force another atmosphere in and you get another 200hp.  Seems fairly logical to me and the dyno plots seem to back that up, but some engines make more from less, especially if you factor in cams and more aggressive tuning.

Map sensor probably.
 
As said already, it's best to choose an ECU that your tuner has knowledge of, or learn how to map it yourself like I did
 
Lugtronic gets massive praise in America but I doubt it's anything better than what's already available.   The Stock ECU is fine with boost anyway, so be sure it's a path you want to go down first.

They are running R32s with an AUE ECU?
Cars like the R32 have little value over here because of the stupid cost of fuel. We don't have cheap E85 like you guys.

Yeah I did that to mine.   You just weld a plate over the top of the pressing to make a box section, then you cut out a hole for the shaft clearance.  Dead easy and twice as strong as stock.  I'll see if I can find a picture of it.

Very similar to mine, but with GT30 instead of GT35 and Emerald management instead of DTA.
He'd be into the 11s easily if his high boost settting could be put down to the tarmac!

Until you try some good brakes, you have no idea how bad the standard ones are :-)
Don't get me wrong, we don't all have deep pockets, but seriously......4 pots and 330mm discs are what high performance VR6s need.
Junctions and roundabouts come up real quick ;-)
312s with Ferodo DS2500s are about as good as you can get with stock bolt on parts, but AP Racing or Brembo is the way to go if you can afford it :-)
I would also change the Master Cylinder for a MK4 24mm item

This thread isn't for justifying my motives for doing it, but if you must know:-
1) I enjoy working on the car and trying new parts. It's just a hobby.
2) Because I had to change the pump anyway, and thought I may aswell try the newer stuff whilst I was down there as it's barely any more money than the old 12V stuff.
3) Because you said it yourself, with all the time and money invested in my engine, it makes sense to protect the crank from running dry, despite the fact I'm unlikely to ever track it.
Yes I initally questioned the need for it, but I'm entitled to change my mind and the parts were cheaper than I thought once I looked into it.

I started my turbo install this week, during the evenings.
Turbos are starting to become more popular now, especially as the dollar is so weak at the moment. It would be rude not to capitalise on that
I've chosen to use parts based on recommendations from Bill Schimmel, to give a punchy road car with good, daily driving manners. Big shout to ibiVR for all his advice and support and also for supplying me the manifold and spacer
So here is the bunch of parts I'm using:-
Schimmel intercooler system, Innovative Products LC-1 Wideband kit, ARP rod and head bolts, TIAL 38mm wastegate, 4" alloy MAF, 440 injectors, NGK race plugs etc etc

And these babies, ibiVR manifold and Garrett GT30R turbo:-


Could have gone for a GT35R, but the 30R is good enough for the kind of power delivery I want.
I am seriously impressed with Schimmel's pricing, service and quality....
Here's the inside of the chargecooler, check the welding quality...and it weighs almost nothing! 0.25psi boost loss, and that is a major anti-lag factor, and superb cooling performance.

The key to the Schimmel's chargecooler performance is the size of the tank (3 gallons), huge water pump and the big old prerad. The system supports up to 700hp. The tank even has a cage around the pump output to stop the ice cubes being sucked in!! Yes, ice cubes! Popular addition to chargecoolers in the states to get the best from the 1/4 runs!

OK, so that's the background, here's the progress so far:-
Before taking the head off, get cylinder 1 on TDC.
To do that, take plug no 1 out and see if it's at the top of it's bore. If it is, or thereabouts, align the timing marks on the crank pulley, thusly:-

If you have the VW cam tool, that should slot in freely. if not, just use a bit of metal plate that's laying around.
Both cam lobes on 1 should be at rest, both valves closed.

That's the engine timed, now strip the car!! Front will have to come off anyway for the intercooler / prerad install, plus it makes installing the turbo oil feed and schimmel intake manifold (if applicable) a whole lot easier.
Strip off head now that you've timed the engine too, and hang chains out of the way. You might need an assistant to hold a 24mm spanner on the cams whilst you crack off the 15mm sprocket bolts. They're seriously tight. If you're HeMan like me (LOL!) then you can manage it on your own.

Next up, install your ARP conrod bolts. So the sump will have to come off for that (again, has to anyway for the turbo oil return) and it has to be one of the most tedious jobs known to man!
If you're not replacing the bearings, just do the bolts one at a time and follow the ARP instructions on torquing them up. Leave the sump off for now.

After you've cleaned up the head and block faces, it's time to install the spacer gasket. If you use a Schimmel or EIP one, just whack it on and then screw the ARPs in. Make sure the threads are fully cleaned out first and note the different bolt heights and where they go. The 3 long ones go at the front. If you use one that needs seperate layers adding, then the VW metal gasket will be needed and you strip it down (break the brass rivets at each corner), bin the middle layer and sandwich the spacer with the two remaining top and bottom layers. Lower the head on carefully and be careful not to bind it on the studs.

Torque up the bolts in this sequence and final torque is 75lb/ft. Again, follow the ARP instructions.

Unfortunately, during these steps I noticed my block and head are pretty shabby. But every cloud has a silver lining, so I now have a 2967cc engine (83.5mm JE forged pistons) under way. The current lump will be used for setup and testing.
Looking tired, but to be fair I've seen a lot worse!!!

Head is not bad, but it's showing bad guide wear already after a rebuild 50K ago!! Oh well, I guess that's on the list then too.

So that's it for the time being. Can only manage a few evenings a week on it, but the next install will see the turbo etc going on. I hope it inspires some of you to get your wallets out! It's not difficult and it's not that expensive either, comparable to supercharging, but with a lot more power and torque
Cheers for now..