antera309
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Everything posted by antera309
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Yep!! It's a complete bootlid off the later "Mk4" cabrio.
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Do the followers have to be bathed in oil prior to fitting?
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Binliner's headlights are Inpro R32-type angel eyes, same as mine, exept he has had the silver backing sprayed black (and they do look better for it!)
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You lucky, lucky person. Enjoy the sunshine!!!
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Cost no object, that is EXACTLY what I would do. Looks awesome, doesn't it! That's just a Mk3.5 cabrio front end (I think that car might have started as a Mk3.5 anyway) with a genuine R32 bumper on it which has been shortened by cutting out the middle and bonding the two halves back together. I do believe that Strictly Dubs are breaking a Mk3.5 cabrio at the moment. You should give them a call Matthew!!
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Love those seats. They're Audi RS4 ones, aren't they?
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BACK FROM THE BODYSHOP AT LAST!!! WOO-HOO!!! Took this one photo of the new rear end yesterday. More photos to come, including some progress photos taken while it was being done. Watch this space!
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Thanks for all your advice everyone. Gonna go fo the INGO NOAK: Great find, Stockers!!!!
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I need to put insulating heat wrap around the 6-branch exhaust manifold I'm fitting. Can anyone tell me where to get some from. Already tried Halfords & my local motorists store - no joy. Ideally, I'd like high-grade stuff that will last as long as possible.
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The Mk4 4Motion has 204BHP to the Mk3 VR's 174BHP, but all the extra power does is help to offset the transmission loss through the 4wd and the extra weight of the Mk4 body. The 4Motion is slightly quicker from 0-60 due to the extra off-the-line traction the 4wd gives, but once on the move, the Mk3 VR6 is the quicker car. Stealth Vince's words, not mine!
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All you need is a pair of rear door handles from a 5-door Mk3. Very easy job - one bolt to remove each handle - the door card doesn't even have to come off.
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I saw that Mk5 GTI bumper on Awesome GTi's website. It's brand spanking new, but I'm not sure that it suits the Mk3. The Mk3's front end isn't "rounded" enough. That CSR Automotive bumper is definitely the best one I've seen yet.
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Feel free to make any other suggestions!!
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Looks like a quality piece of kit. The cheap ones don't have the holes for the windscreen washer jets. Is the bracing underneath all carbon fibre too?
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Believe it or not, the Mattig is the most expensive bumper of the four. I'm not sure whether I like the deleted lower intakes either. And the number plate would have to be mounted to the lower spoiler, leaving it a little bit vulnerable... What would you guys suggest? The only alternative I can think of is to go with a standard bumper and fit a pair of those air intakes that replace the foglights/tow eye cover. The trouble is, these only fill the inner 2/3 of the recess, so I'd still need a pair of non-functional indicators to plug the remaining hole. Not exactly the "clean look" I was aim
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The Cabrio's respray is complete, but unfortunately the smoothed & de-indicatored bumper that I did myself fell apart when the bodyshop was sanding it &| As they say, if it's broke - mod it. There are some nice aftermarket bumpers out there which will still give me the smoothed + no lights look that I'm after. Here's a few that I've been looking at. Which would you go for? Are there any others you've seen which are even nicer? Rear bumper is a smoothed OEM style with number plate recess - it would match any of these. Here we go: SWG: Reiger (try to imagine it with black mesh in
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I've booked myself in for a test drive of one. I'll post my opinions here when done!!
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Do a search for "Electric Windows" - problems with these have been well covered on this forum.
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With a blower fitted, you will get more power running the stock cams than you will with the 268s. 268 cams have more "overlap" than the stock cams - this means that the exhaust valve is kept open longer during the first part of the induction phase. On a naturally aspirated engine, this is a good thing - the momentum of the escaping exhaust gas creates a partial vacuum which helps to "suck" in the new air through the inlet valve. The engine therefore has less work to do (via the crank) to fill the combustion chamber, so you get a power increase. On an engine with a blower, air is being fed in
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Sounds like it was just a bit of condensation in the crakcase then. Lucky! Do an oil & filter change anyway, though.
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dont buy it ' date='until the abs is fixed,if pump gone can be very costly [/quote'] Yes, ABS pump failure is a major pain in the ass. Unless the seller will let you plug a VAG-COM into it to verify that it isn't a pump fault, walk away.
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Remove relays. As many as possible. Remember where they all go ;-) Use a wheel clamp to avoid any tow truck shenanigans. Take the keys on holiday with you. Don't lose them.
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URGENT HELP - worst nightmare come true
antera309 replied to cadguy77's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Well done finding such a low mileage one. You won't have to worry about chains on that, I wouldn't have thought. Probably still worth changing the clutch while the engine's out though.