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antera309

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Everything posted by antera309

  1. It is possible to do the job with the engine in the car and the gearbox removed on its own, but it is a lot easier to do if you take the engine out as well.
  2. My brother had this same problem on his VR. He replaced the coolant bottle and the cap and it's been fine ever since.
  3. A 1997 Golf VR6 has 288mm vented discs up front, 226mm solid discs at the rear.
  4. I rate the new TT as well. It looks wider and far more aggressive than the old one. The only bit I'm not sure about are the door mirrors - they look a bit big for the car.
  5. The second one is the VW Eos cabrio. That's coming out this year and looks pretty much the same as the concept. It's available with the 3.2 V6 too! The new TT is out later this year too. Here's the official pics from VAG: I guess you've all seen the Concept R? This one IS just a concept for now.
  6. With an Auto, I'd go for mods that boost power in the mid-range. Power at the top end of the rev range won't be so helpful because the 'box will be changing up before you get to it most of the time. A supercharger is the best thing you can do. Failing that, I'd say a Shrick manifold, 264 cams, BMC filter and a remap.
  7. I'll take some carbon engine covers (the full 4-piece set) if he can do them. A Battery cover would be nice too.
  8. Try: http://www.vagparts.com/ They sell to the US, so I'm sure they do a LHD version of the kit.
  9. That's a good price. I just paid £600 for mine.
  10. OBD1 2.8 VR6, 268 Cams, 6-branch exhaust manifold and corrado throttle body: Before remap: 188.9BHP @ 6043RPM 171.3lb-ft @ 5600RPM After remap: 203BHP @ 6004RPM 179.6lb-ft @ 5687RPM Well done, Vince!
  11. Putting the plastic arches on a later model VR wouldn't look right because you don't have the matching texture-top bumpers. If you smoothed & colour coded them they would look fine, but this is a difficult and time-consuming job. Smoothing the swage lines in the bumpers is actually an easier job and a much more effective mod IMO.
  12. Mine's been perfectly driveable with the Schrick 268s in and no remap, it hasn't run rough or anything, it just isn't producing the power & torque it should, that's all.
  13. Ignition switch perhaps? Do you hear the fuel pump prime up when you first turn on the ignition?
  14. I can help on this one. I have recently fitted 268 cams to mine, and it's being remapped at Stealth tomorrow so I'll be able to let you know exactly what the figures are.
  15. Glad you were able to save it, and resist the temptation to make a profit breaking it up for parts. Lovely car!!
  16. That Avalanche is the sexiest thing this side of a Ferrari Enzo. Simply awesome!
  17. Sounds like that's the kiddie. Try it on an ignition live first' date=' then if that doesn't work, a permanent live. That one is the 3-pin sensor for the speedometer. There should be another socket on the end of a black housing attached to the shift mechanism where the gearlever cables attach. It's near that big counterweight thing that moves when you change gear...
  18. When we fitted the VR6 engine to my cabrio we had exactly the same symptoms and the same dangling red/yellow wire. Connecting this wire to permanent 12V live sorted it. Obviously, though, I don't know whether you have EXACTLY the same problem that we did. Try it at your own risk!!! As for the spare plug in the engine bay, have you checked whether it's for the reversing lights switch? The socket for this is located on top of the gearbox near where the shift cables connect. This one caught us out too. It ended up plugged into the windscreen washer pump!! !lol
  19. £175 per year on pre-2001 cars over 1549cc Up £5 from last year.
  20. Nice. BBS RCs work so well on Mk3s, especially mulberry ones!
  21. Once you take them off, they're buggers to get back on again unless you unbolt the whole caliper. Next time you change the pads, just paint the spring clips black while they're off. Nice finish on the calipers though. What did you use to paint them? Been thinking about doing mine blue to go with the R32 wheels.
  22. A Mk1 with that sort of mileage is an extremely rare find. Well done, and keep us all informed on the progress of the resto!!
  23. I've used Castrol Magnatec in a VR6 before without any problems. Likewise with "minor brand" 10W40 Semi Synthetic from my local discount parts store. Synta Silver does seem to be the most highly recommended choice though and this is what I use now.
  24. 15W40 is a slightly thicker oil that may well be suitable for higher-mileage VR6s, but to be safe I'd stick with VW's recommendation of 10W40 semi synthetic.
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