acf8181
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Everything posted by acf8181
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talk to phatvr6...i'm sure i remember him syaing thats its very simple to convert coilpack to dizzy and vice versa. you've got the bits from your original engine after all. he'll also be able to confirm my theory
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i'd rather spend the money elsewhere and drill my o.e. airbox! lol
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only very very early OBD1's had dizzy, '92 cars i think. my '93 has a coilpack. my point is if you took all the ancileries off (inc both manifolds) surely you could then bolt on the obd1 stuff that you already have, and it'd work as an obd1. the block/head/cams are the same on all are they not?
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this better? hehe just thought i'd colour code my posts to my car! [ Edited Sun Jun 13 2004, 04:39PM ]
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don't get my worng...i like masses of bhp. but i'd much rather buy a car with loads more bhp as standard' date=' and also that drives different wheels (be it 4wd or rwd), i just don't think they vr6 would be able to handle that much bhp.[/color']
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i can't see that error?!
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surely if you remove the tb, injectors, etc off your current engine and place them on the new one you can plug it in as an obd1...the actual mechanical bits of the engine are identical as a far as i know. hope you understand what i mean, easier than changing the whole loom. [ Edited Sat Jun 12 2004, 10:44PM ] [ Edited Sun Jun 13 2004, 10:42AM ]
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at the mo i can't really brake hard at high speed unless i'm going dead straight...or it gets very very skitish, feels like it'll swap ends. but having said that, i just got back from getting the 'box and it felt much better...and i was really giving it some down fast A roads. so i think the tyres are coming in now
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well, its true that the shrik manifold is probably the best performance upgrade for the vr6....but at a cost of about £1500. peronally i think a shrik, a decent suspension kit, a set of arb's, and a rebuilt gearbox with altered ratios and a quife atb (torque biasing diff)...is the recipe for vrheaven.i don't feel theres any need to get any more bhp out of it. [ Edited Sat Jun 12 2004, 10:30PM ] [ Edited Sat Jun 12 2004, 10:30PM ]
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does on most cars, but the vr6 needs the camber resting after lowering, and most set it to standard. i run as much camber as the slots in the strut allow. some may find the car twitchy, and nervous...but thats how i like it. mines a bit OTT at the mo as the new rear tyres haven't bedded in, and the rear got unsettled at 120mph on a slight curve yesterday...hehe quick racks are great, i believe they do actually do one for a vr6...but have only used one in a nova so far. worth noting that the more responsive the steering the smoother you have to be with the wheel though.
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what i do is click on quote for the first persons post that i wanna comment on, then copy the whole lot, then click back, then go to the second persons post io wanna comment on, then clikc quote, and past the first persons comments above it.
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totally agree that you need to build up. although i find it quite amusing that i had to try really hard to drive my first car on the limit (1.3 nova)' date=' but if i hop into one now its totally effortless and easy to drive right on the edge![/color'] Agreed mate, my point was that older cars with heavier steering may have been harder for the not so butch ladies, although I suppose steering wasn't as heavy at higher speeds. And yes they do float like a boat with standard suspension, but now i've had the car for a bit and getting used to it ihas quite a lot more grip than I first realised
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if you can drive you can drive, regardless of gender. but, and no offnce meant to anyone, i've only ever come across one girl who could drive properly...and i mean drive fast, to the limit of the car, but not over, with the right amount of respect and appreciation for what a vehicla can and can't do. every other girl i've seen drive is either quite nervous and slow, or are down right reckless (they have absolutly no idea what a car can and can't do, they think it'll go round a corner at any speed they want it to and don't know anything about keeping the car settled and composed...they worst bi
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its the whole lot from top to bottom [ Edited Fri Jun 11 2004, 09:05PM ]
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i've got big coolant probs... head gasket has just been changed. but the coolant keeps dissappearing and when there is any in it looks like chilli sauce in the reservoir. i can't find a leak anywhere. please someone tell me its not a faulty h/g? i've found that there is holes in the top of the reservoir, presume as a vent?
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i have a mate who has just started workin at ford;)
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i'm gettin a second hand 'box. how much am i lookin at for the linage parts? anyone got the part no's so i can look on etka and see which they are (i have no clue about linkages)
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vr6 being broken by this guy (good job his e-mail was still in my trash can, i'd deleted it) he wants £70 for the clocks mind... peoplesvw@hotmail.com
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just remove the headlamp and bolt a new one in, easy as pie!
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well, i've spent so much already that i may as well keep it. also, if i sold it i'd be in a predicament...theres no other car that goes as well and feels as new for £3k. only other cars i considered are mkII MR2 which is too small, and E36 325 which feels old unless you get a newer one which costs more. so i'm stuck with it! p.s. the reds stayin - makes it easy to find my posts
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new nsf caliper it is then
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exactly 2 feet, from the absolute top to the absolute botom [ Edited Fri Jun 11 2004, 10:41AM ]
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i'm gettin a new 'box as my syncro's are dead, the tming chain tensioner blade needs changing (so 'box out) and may as well change the 'box at the same time. i laos have a really 'slack' feeling gearstick. if i put it oin third i can puch it another inch towards the dash, and all the rest are pretty similar. is this likely to be the 'box or is it the linkage? if its the linkage what bits should be changed so i have 'like-new' shift?
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how much are the parts gonna total? could i get the parts from ford (galaxy v6), and are they likely to be cheaper? and more importantly are they identical? gsf and/or ecp seem to sell some of the parts, they'll be ok won't they?
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ok, as you know clair i've replied on cgti...i'd get the brake resistance tested at a mot satation on their rollers, and if that comes up fine, then look into a new abs control module...which i believe is by the master cylinder on yours (would be much easier if it was an early car, they're under back seats and i would have happily let you borrow mine to test it), theres often some for sale on ebay, and i believe biunliner knows of a late spec vr6 being broken near him.