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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. go for whatever size mkIII anni's have as standard i reckon. think it must be 205-45-16
  2. yep...deffo worth buying one. i have a little stand alone diagnostics reader, but am down south.
  3. can never go wrong with bbs on a vw really.......less unsprung weight should give you a little bit of performance gain as well.
  4. for o.e. hoses halfords one will be fine.....but for samco's use samco's own clips.
  5. acf8181

    Mk 5 GTI

    you keepin the mkII as well then?
  6. just been reading the bentley manual, and coolant change is not on the service schedule, and is supposed to be life long according to vw! - ROFLMAO this is as good as the 'timing chains never need changing' lie. i think vw either know they're cheap thin hoses are gonna blow at least once every 20k or so, or they want all the old cars to not get passed 100k so they can sell the owners a new car. idiots.
  7. some spring compressors do like to slip round....i just get a mate to hold them and make sure they don't.
  8. yeah, took me a few cleans of the isv to get it perfect on mine when i got it.
  9. its another fuel bill remember
  10. ifs it perfect apart form these 2 dings, and has perfect service history and is 3dr, i reckon maybe £6k. [ Edited Mon May 02 2005, 10:57AM ]
  11. well...it doesn't have a choke per se, its all controlled by ecu. if its an OBD1 car (pre mid '95), its prob the idle stabilisation valve needing a clean (thats the cylindrical think next to the throttle body near the back of the head)...take it off and clean it out with carb cleaner.
  12. what you on about...is mega easy to get to the drain plug....just jack the car upa fraction to lift the splitter then get up there with a flat head screwdriver...easy as pie.
  13. have footage of that track, looks to be good fun....a few fast corners, and lots of run off. have fun, and report back on what its like.
  14. on etka it indicates that its integrated with the strip that runs the length of the skirt....part no. 1h0 853 985 for left, 1h0 853 986 for right. but i reckon it may be the same as the similar bit at the front of skirts, which are available seperately...part no. 1h0 853 995 for left (which if used on rear woudl be right i think), 1h0 853 996 for right (or left if on front) - dont take me word tho, check it out by removing the front one and seeling if it fits first. oh...you may need to add B41 as a suffix to all those part no's.
  15. yeah, i know the rd you mean, is pretty bad....i go through the back roads instead.
  16. i'd go for a genuine vw clutch...the one on mine has lasted 119k so far and still has absolutely loads of life left (i reckon another 50k at least!), so why risk getting a poorer one. a lot does depend on how the cars been driven...obviously previous owners of my car didn't ride the clutch or do a lot of drag starts. as the gearbox has to come out you really should do the timing chains and runners whilst there (£160 of parts from gsf), and hows your gearbox shifting? if its knackered get it sorted now. then you shoudl have many miles of motoring ahead of you.
  17. get the pics of the pothole before you call or they'll quickly fill it in
  18. yeah, i agree with badboy...sounds like it could be hall sender, but check fault codes before doing anything. (there are ways to test hall sender before renewing it as well)
  19. no, you don't need to be a pro to change the tensioner 'bolt'.....just follow these guidelines....remove old one (its the huge bolt on the back of the top cam chain cover, round the back of engine), bolt new one in, then remove fuel pump fuse (18 i think) and crank engine a few times (it will clatter a lot) till the majority of the clanking goes away, then replace fuse and start. that (and the runner on the head) are the only two timing chain items you can change without removing the 'box. sadly its the 'blade' runner that tends to wear (the tensiober bolts effectively tensions the blade runne
  20. yeah, i think its better to have two very very minor dinks and original paint, than having it srayed and the color not matching. if i viewed a car where the door had abviously been sprayed i'd have a hard time believing that its not been crashed.
  21. well...yeah, if any need replacing the gearbox has to come out....be prepared for a very big bill indeed.
  22. yep....thats well within the tolerance, though obviously there is some wear somewhere. to give a comparison my figures are - 1 - 180 2 - 180 3 - 150 4 - 180 5 - 180 6 - 180 ...but i have had h/g done failry recently. and fabios were (i think)... 1 - 150 2 - 180 3 - 145 4 - 180 5 - 150 6 - 180 but i wouldn't worry about yours i don't think.
  23. money prob....£200 can be a lot if its come at the wrong time.
  24. yeah, '94 shoudl have 280's still, changeover was mid '95. remember condition of pads and discs have a huge difference on braking performance.
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