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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. i onve had a spark plug loosen up and actually fall out years ago on a nova! just means someoen didn't tighten it proerly most likely, shouldn't have hurt the car don't worry.
  2. the only items chain related that you can replace without removing the gearbox are the runner that attaches to the side of the head, and upper 'bolt' tensioner. the blade tensioner is very very frustarting as you you can see it, touch it, move it, but can slot it off its mounting pin as the lower cover is right against it, which in turn has the gearbox against it.
  3. ok, for some reason we cant edit our posts! was gonna add that you could try rotating the tyres front to rear and vice versa to see if its any better.
  4. well...uni's are f*ckin good tyres, and i've yet to be impressed by a pirelli so that may have something to do with it (esp in wet i'd imagine, as thats where uni's excel) you're always gonna get the rear going light under hard braking at speed...its basic physics...if the rear gets out of shape under braking, just ease of the pedal (thats the first line of defence, then apply slight steering correction as required)
  5. you probably have a leak in a vacuum hose under the bonnet...is your engine running properly?
  6. yeah, just noticed it appears to be on 17"s...they're usually not very progressive at all.
  7. the poly's aren't even notceable on o.e. susp by the way claire....but i doubt its them causing the imbalance anyway, they weren't really that noticeable with handling even with uprated susp, just ride.
  8. well, mine certainly does not thats for sure.
  9. no, you shouldn't have any scrubbing ro sump smashing incidents with a modest drop like that...i never did with a tad more even. oh, i have got s full susp kit for sale by the way, in the classifieds
  10. its not called tail happy...its called responsive lol i've never felt my vr6 has been very oversteery tbh, its fwd after all so by definition will understeer unless you're doing something silly like lifting or braking mid corner, which is asking for trouble in any car. tyres really are the most critical thing when it comes to handling on a car, if you decent fronts with cheapo rears it will be prone to a more oversteery balance.
  11. i'd go for a set of gmax springs (dont be tempted by the -60mm ones tho, go for the 30/35/40 (not sure which it is) ones)
  12. i'm actually finally working somewhere i enjoy...silverstone race track:)..sham its only a temporary contract and a very basic position, but nothing like working to the sound of f1 cars going by!
  13. if you're sticking with o.e. shocks its prob best to just get -30mm springs.
  14. i think theyll look ok....will look a tad small tho as due to the slight dishing they appear smaller than they really are.
  15. nah, not gona affect power output. throw on a new gasket, its not expensive or hard to do.
  16. with an obd1 car the first thing to do is clean the isv with any stutter or poor idling problem....it may take a few cleans to perfect it. use carb cleaner, and clean the TB whilst you're at it.
  17. 350mm is my recommendation (sure o.e. is more than 360)...go to small and you won't see you dials
  18. depends on the diagnostics machine i think rich...i echo all the above, sounds like hall sender to me.
  19. my mates, some other guy from my toen (posted on here), 3rd person on cgti i think.
  20. i'm still awaiting an item that i won over 2 weeks ago (and paid immediately with paypal)
  21. actually...i've never known of one failing after rattling...they all went boom with no warning!
  22. erm, nick...vw still state that they don't need doin ever....me thinks they want them all to implode so you buy a new vw.
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