Zonda_

I need to remove the black plastic trim on the boot. The big thing that the registration plate lights show through and the reg plate fastens on to. I can see 3 screws at the top when the boot lid is open and I have removed them all but it is still securely attached. Are there any more screws under the reg plate? Mine is a stick on plate and I didn't want to pull it off for no reason.

A sticker over the warning light has sufficed for the past 3 of mine.

I'd say that's exactly the reason the rears locked, the standard brakes are pretty much hopeless and you had a shit hot system on the rear! BTW, running you car with more braking force at the rear is illegal and whilst it'd be difficult for a copper to spot it'll certainly fail an MOT.

Of course I've hit them hard enough to lock them on track! It's all about finding the limits of the car. Besides, I've done plenty of wet trackdays when it's all you can do not to lock them.

I've done plenty of trackdays in mine with no problems.

Under normal driving the Vento's temperature never moves above 70 degrees however when you come to a stop and it idles for more that 30 seconds it will rise to 100 rapidly! I've never waited to see if it will keep on climbing, I've always whacked the heater to max and the fans to full. What could be causing it? Non functioning thermostat? If so how do I find/remove/check it?

It's a Vento, slid the rubber back and there is a red wire snapped clean in two. Managed to drag the window up by hand so have to try and fix the wire somehow.

Sorry for putting it in the wrong area but no responses so far and I need an answer! See original thread here. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?180097 Moderator edit by: VR6Pete

Drivers side rear is open and won't respond to either of the switches or the total closure on the key fob. All the other windows are working fine. Is there some way I can crank it up manually?

And that's hard is it?

Owned 3 Vento VR6's, yes it's normal.

You won't beat Toyos for the price. The T1-Rs are an excellent tyre and have a far stiffer sidewall compared to the T1-S

Yes but the tool is for the plug leads not the plugs no?

Following on from the excellent guide written on doing an oil change in my other thread I thought this would be a useful thing to have up to. A mod could create a "Basic service thread" as I'm sure there are plenty more people like me who object to paying garage price for work they could do themselves with a set of instructions. So, anyone out there who's done this a hundred time, get writing!

Nice set of idiot proof instructions there mate cheers! Our drive is on a slight slope but I've had the car on axle stands with the rear wheels chocked to stop any movement plenty of times. If the sump plug is at the back it'll be ok anyway. Now can you do a similar guide for changing spark plus?