acf8181
-
Content Count
3,058 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by acf8181
-
MK3 VR6 174BHP VS MK4 1.8T 180BHP?
acf8181 replied to faigolfgti's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
vr6 mkIV weighs a lot more mkIV prob fractionally more fun to drive as standard though, susp on vr6 is horrid as standard engine note? vr6 every day of the week. -
changing the frame/runners will be a pain in the arse. bet you wished you could have got the deal i got, full set of mkIII cloth recaros for £120! its quite easy to find a set of mkIII cloth recaros in good condition for £300ish, will be a lot easier to get them into the car after all. and you can hold off on the retrim (if you have to have leather) till a later date (i.e. when you can afford it) colour concept leather cheapest i've seen was a set for £800, so would cost about the same to get cloth recaros and get them retrimmed (but you'd be able to choose the colour scheme and they'd be as n
-
when i put a charger on a car the wrong way round it just sent shit loads of sparks into the air when i tunred the power on, so i switched it off immendiately. no probs afterwards.
-
i think its just you! lol
-
lol not sure what bhp it has as i've never RR'd it. i think its quite healthy tho, seems quicker than my mates standard highline. i've got a few goodies in the suspension area, interior, and engine mounts so it aint standard (neither are the wheels or gill)
-
only if they are cheapo ones, they need to be hubcentric (so specially designed for the mkIII)
-
the higher the ET the more into the car the wheel is. but, if you're hitting the caliper its actually prob just the design of the wheels, the ET wont really effect it.
-
if you touch the leads un-protected they'll give you a shock even if they're in perfect condition! lol so doesn't mean theres anything wrong with them. theres a special tool required to safely removed leads without damaging them, it should be clipped onto the bonnet support rod. if it isn't there you can get a new one for vw for about £15, or get a fancy metal aftermarket one from somewhere (someone onn here will have a link) for a little more (the metal one is much better than the o.e. one). or you can remove the manifold with the leads still there (but unplugged form coilpack end) and carefu
-
well, i don't know of anyone on here who has one, i think they've been looked into tho and theres no point for a vr6. can't remember why though.
-
i just use vw ones, you ain't really gonna gain much from a spark plug, they're all pretty similar.
-
nah, i'd get a schrick is money isn't an issue, then get a remap done to optimise it. no point getting a remap first then having to get it done again after you get a schrick, and chips aren't much cop (remap is matched to your car, chip's are all the same settings and no car is identical). i don't go for loud exhausts, think the vr6 is too refined for that stuff (but then again my vr6 has the nice looking early tailpipes not the twin downswept pee shooter), a little induction noise is nice tho.
-
from what i understand the figures aren't that impressive, but the way it alters the characteristics of the engine is the big bit...from what i get it makes it drive kind of like a 4cyl 8v and 4cyl 16v put together (so power at low rpms and at high rpms)
-
just to add to what we discovered mark, its only early cars where the racks are the same. the later cars do indeed have different racks, which is weird.
-
-
does it slowly die, or does it just cut out instantly (so idling perfectly then bang)? if its the latter it sounds like whats up with mine. i haven't diagnosed what it is yet, checked fuel and ecu relays, next is ignition switch. its unfortunately not something that triggers a fault code so is really tricky to find.
-
yes they are the same, but i really wouldn't put colour coded arches on, they really don't look right colour coded IMO.
-
so, if they only use 4 pins of the 16 point one, surely you could just make an early obd1 connector out of four bits of wire and eight small spade connectors...providing you made sure they were plugged into the correct holes? and i guess that means the software is the same?
-
well, etka only has the one diagram...that was what it showed for a '97 golf
-
ok, LF is 1H6 805 825A and RF is 1H6 805 826A (the ones for small splitters have B instead of A, so just remember that last bit...thats providing its an early car of course)
-
its no.1 on this diagram....
-
i'd have thought it would, depends on the software tho. maybe worth asking SK if they have the adapter.
-
i can find them if you really want them, but i can't believe you're happy to pay £25 for two bits of plastic that aren't really necessary!
-
early obd1's are 2pin+2pin, where as later ('94 on i think) have the same 16pin connector as all obd2. early obd1 uses the obd2 cable with an adapter, i've only seen the adapter on the ross-tech site and it costs £35.
-
lol - sorry, didn't realise you guys were still together! oops! well, i'm comparing the latest model of scoob, which is a really refined car. you can't compare the S4 with one of original impreza's, they're too old.
-
i had probs with my vr's speedo, in that it stopped working. i replaced the sender, spinny cog thingy that goes down into gearbox, even got a spare set of clocks...turned out to be that one of the pins in the big plug connector near the coilpack has bent over! may be worth starting there.