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acf8181

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Everything posted by acf8181

  1. acf8181

    Fav Colour?

    this is a pointless thread...everyone will just say the colour of their own car..otherwise they'd have bought a different colour. i like red adn silver cause they're nice and bright, unlike 90% of vr6's, which are dull and boring looking. (sorry)
  2. trust me you wanna leave it connected...it's not really like traction control, its more like having an lsd. you'll have horrendous power understeer if you disconnect it.
  3. http://www.donington-park.co.uk/trakzone/
  4. acf8181

    Buying a VR6

    well, you have to remove the gearbox to change the chains...so it'll cost a fair bit. badges are just glued on, heat it with a hairdrier and prize off with your fingers...then clean the glue off. but i wouldn't take the badge off, as everyone will think its only a gti. [ Edited Tue Apr 13 2004, 06:47PM ]
  5. please wait till i fix my vr6, or get a new car! and lets do donnington, as its the best in the cost versus run off stakes (silverstone and rockingham have better run off, but cost loads)
  6. acf8181

    Buying a VR6

    check every electronic item in the car (roofs and windows often pack up), make sure it has comprehensive service history. check for any weird knocking noises fron the shocks/suspension in general (the bushes give up at around 100-120k, the shocks last about ten mins (but you really wanna make that a first upgrade as the suspesnion is very floppy as standard) i don't think the running costs are that high really, for example i get better mpg in the vr6 than i used to in a 1.2 punto when on a motorway at a solid 90mph! (cause the vr6 is at low revs then) timing chains could ideally do with changi
  7. not a bad idea to change wishbones anyway at some point, as the bushes will likely be worn out. i have one wishbone sitting around that i got cheap of e-bay, just gotta wait till the other one can be got hold of! lol!
  8. gotta be done...i decided i had to this year as am worried that they'll put speed limits on it sooner rather than later, and didn't want to miss out. have been studying vids and playing on grand prix legends for 6 months now, and only know upto the karrusel well! lol! gotta test whatever car i'm takin to distruction at donnington first tho.
  9. i'd check your wishbones very carefully if i were you, as from the sound of it, there's a good chance that it is bent. your shock could also be bent, or your chassis. a bent arb won't affect the allighment i think.
  10. this is one of the reasons that if i ever get round to getting arb's then i'd go for neuspeed..as they come with uprated links. i've managed to snap two o.e. ones with a standard arb, so add in the stiffer eibach arb (which would in turn put more force through the link) and i think i'd be spending as much on arb links as i do on fuel!
  11. er, ok, calm it kermit...i'll just say i'm happy with my setup then!
  12. well, lets put it this way then...i have the maximum camber that is possible when runing o.e. shocks, and someone on a nother forum(who knows there stuff) has said that'll be about 2 degs.
  13. you'll find you need to use less steering input as well!
  14. er...i really hope they didn't set the camber to zero...as the factory setting is 0.5 i think, and zero would make it understeer badly mid-corner. i reckon you should try about 1.5degs, toe should be zero tho (i think)
  15. camber and toe are adjustable on golfs... camber is adjusted by loosening the shock to hub bolts then repositioning it, then tightneing the bolts. toe is adjustable with the tie rods, as are most cars. most places don't have the equiptment to adjust camber unfortuantly. i've increased my camber massively, to a suspected approx 2 degs neg...wasn't done scientifically, but i lucked in and it's a dream...lot less steering effort required, car is nice and responsive, with a touch of mid corner oversteer. please note, this is quite extreme, most peeps would prob be happier with 1 to 1.5 degs of neg
  16. only way is the badge on the door, from what i can tell! oh, and the fact that you leave the vtr for dust!
  17. you'll just break the syncro on the new box sooner or later...learn to heel and toe and you won't need the syncromesh.
  18. usually they put new gears inside the original casing...curing the long throw is a whole nother problem, and i'm not sure how to cure it.
  19. ok, my thoughts are that about -25mm is the best...it looks right, it feels right. there is a degree of personal preference, but to em, its an everyday driver, and so needs to be able to handle pot holes and the like. but it also needs to corner well. its about finding a balance, i'd say a pretty soft uprated suspension kit, and a set of uprated arb's will do the job to perfection. i would replace the bushes with new o.e. bushes, which is easy enough to do on the front (just buy new wishbones), but its easier to put powerflex ones on the rear. there's also the point that if you go too low, you
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