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Everything posted by red_rocket

  1. Before and after shots as requested. The washer on the rod, shorts the two contacts in the lid to give the low fluid indication. The rod only moves a couple of mm when retained by the cap.
  2. You have got the same comedy brake fluid sensor cap as I had. There is a plastic cap that fits over the rod and limits the travel. This seems to ping off over time. I made a new one from a cap I found in my plumbing box. It needs to be sealed to protect the brake fluid and the contacts on the sensor. Cheers Pete
  3. Hi, Are these still available? Cheers Pete
  4. User "bennyk" posted some pictures of the floor repair he did on here around 3rd December 2013. For such a large section you may be better off with repair panel rather than a patch.
  5. Ouch - that's a big hole! The recent restoration quote for my Golf was £400+ ish per day for (cutting out and patching) metalwork. With a sill, or rear wheel arch typical taking a day each. That does not include painting and refinishing.
  6. Hi, I can only answer for my experience of the Mk3 Vr6. I would always now go for Bilstein B4 (or above). I swapped out my yellow Koni's as they were just too stiff for everyday driving on pot holed roads. Cheers Pete
  7. A fluid change is unlikely to fix a missing gear. Assuming its a 01M transmission this is how it works. You move the selector lever which rotates an actuator rod in the gearbox. For reverse and park the rod does mechanical interlock type stuff. For the forward gears, cam faces machined on the rod act on the multifunction switch (MFS) which is a big white thing on the rear side of the gearbox facing the firewall. This generates a 2 or 3 bit code on individual wires which are sent to the gearbox computer. This is located under the rear seat on a Golf but could b
  8. No sorry went within days on here with buyer paying postage. I put SOLD in the title as per the instructions on the classified section.
  9. My H&R springs sold on ebay. Waiting for payment before updating the classified on here as sold - received yesterday. I only changed my springs but kept the koni dampers. Cheers Pete
  10. Hi, Yes - its a little known fact that the top hats come in two different sizes, 90mm and 110mm. From my experience, Eibach and later OEM springs require the 90mm one, whilst H&R need the 110mm one. Cheers Pete
  11. Hi Andrew, Each wheel & tyre weighs about 15.5kg, so you need to check the courier cost. If you want to proceed then I will PM you my address and paypal details. Cheers Pete
  12. It's possible, but a few questions first; Where are you based? Would the courier take bare wheels (i.e. unwrapped) with just an address label? Which two do you want? Cheers Pete
  13. Now sold Set of tatty original BBS alloy wheels for Golf Mk3 VR6 1997 - P Reg Sound, with minimal damage, but need a refurb. Balance up OK and only leaked air due to corrosion when the car was in storage for the last 2 years. Toyo T1R 205/50/15 89V tyres included - which are about 4 years and 20K miles old. Also advertised on ebay. Buyer must collect from CM6 1BY (near Stansted airport). Best offer over £40 secures from a VR6OC member. Would consider selling individually (£15 each), if anyone wants proper
  14. Good used condition, some surface rust, but otherwise very good. These are very firm and lower the car by about 40mm front and rear. Available as went back to "standard" for insurance purposes. Also advertised on ebay, but £20 cash to a VR6OC member. Buyer must collect from CM6 1BY (near Stansted airport). Please note that the front springs are designed to fit the 110mm top hat - which is included. Some later cars (like mine) have the 90mm top hat. Cheers Pete
  15. Put it back to standard by changing the airbox and the springs, so I could take out the Hastings policy. It's a standard policy so might have a struggle with the valuation of the VR6 in the event of a fault claim. I will defo go back to the classic policy in 2 years time, when the "car loan" finishes. These really are good value from the specialists and are not bothered about normal mods. Cheers Pete
  16. Hi, I made a similar enquiry recently, actually for exactly the same vehicle type. I was told that you can't get classic insurance for a driver under the age of 25. I was trying to put my son on my classic policy, so he could drive the car while his was being "borrowed" by my daughter when she was back from university. The joys of parenthood! I did however get some online pricings for normal policies for my son, who is 21 with 3 years NCD on the same vehicle. Hastings £500 for a standard car. Flux £1300 for declared mods to suspension and air filte
  17. Sad to hear this. You were responsible for introducing me to the club when I bought your old exhaust off ebay. What happened to the Nothelle? Cheers Pete
  18. "Rockets on the road again, wearing shiny clothes again" Used most of last week, whilst the family Cadillac was in for a wheel bearing. Running and driving great. Gave it a proper wash and cleaned the glass before going back in the garage.
  19. Headlamp level adjusters perhaps? Quite a rare option. Pete
  20. Hi, Is this the 096 (early) or 01M (late) type? What's the history and mileage? Thanks Pete
  21. Hi, After a brush with some new anti car kerbs at Cambridge station (aka tank traps) I am in need of a recommended diamond cut alloy wheel repairer in the Essex area. Any suggestions? I will be getting all 4 wheels done, but only 2 have the bad kerbing. They are all straight and only damaged on the outside face. Thanks Pete
  22. Hi, No, the battery is just for starting really. Once the engine is running the alternator does everything including charging the battery. You need to measure voltages and impedance first to make sure everything is OK. HIDs can generate a lot of electrical noise, which could be upsetting things, especially if anything is bit marginal. Good luck, cheers Pete
  23. Hi, That sounds normal to me. Most cars have an input to the engine ECU from the air conditioning because of the extra load it puts on the engine. Likewise, if you have got electric power steering, or sometimes even the lights. I would check the battery voltage with nothing on (greater than 12.8V if your battery is good) and then check the charging voltage with the engine running. This should be greater than about 13.8V under all conditions. You should also check the impedance of the earth straps (i.e. battery to chassis and battery to engine). You can m
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