c00k

Thanks for the comments. Yes it's been a long hard road but has been worth it every time I get in it and drive it. 
Probably could have been done quicker but kids, money, work gets in the way!
Parts, I've had from various places. A lot of items custom manufacturered. Such as green steel brake lines, fuel tank straps etc.. 
Has been a great journey so far and being part ifs club helps massively. 
Onwards and upwards with added boost in a few weeks hopefully!

I'm winning! 

To cut back paint or laqucer and remove swirls and restore, you need a decent compound pad. The likes of halfords pads, and most bought locally are to soft for cutting back. There okay for polishing, but no cutting back. 
I use a menzerna compound pad, and merguiars dimond cut 2.0 cutting compound.  
 
Work small sections at a time, I divide the bonnet in to 3 sections, each door 3 sections, (top section above and around window, middle of door and bump strip, bottom of door below bump strip), Roof in to 5 sections (4 squares at the back, and one section that goes around the sides of sun roof and in front). 
These sections are all in my head, I do not divide them up with tape, some people do but I just keep them in my head. 
I like to tape and cover all black plastics and rubbers, as I find my cutting compound sticks to them very badly, and can only be removed with cleaning alcohol (isopropanol), white spirits or thinners. None of which are idea to be putting on plastic or rubbers. 
Reason I taped up the head lights, and grill was I had already detail cleaned the head lights while they were off the car, and didn't want to have to do it again, and the grill to stop cutting compound and polish flinging into the rads, and getting stuck. And my middle section is black plastic not body colour. 
 
Clay the car 1st to remove tar and sticky spots, as this stops it getting trapped on the buffing pad and getting dragged and moved to other areas of car.  
 
When cutting start on a slow speed to spread the compound out, this stops it slinging everywhere. Then speed up to about 2,500-3,000. I never go above 3,800, no need, my buffer can do 6,000. Never needed more then 3,800, the higher speed doesn't cut or polish any better it just makes more of a mess, as it's to fast. 
Fully break down the cutting compound. Until it turns in to a hazy finish, and isn't white any more.  
Nice even pressure on the head of the buffer. Try and keep the pad flat against the paint. Never uses just the edges of the pad. 
Some areas may require a 2nd maybe even a 3rd cut to get decent result. 
 
I take it your using a DA buffer, not a rotary? 
DA are a lot more forgiving and easier to use. But will take slightly longer for decent end result. 
Rotray can get the job done faster, but take a lot more skill to use, and can cause major damage if used incorrectly. 
 
Never cross contaminate pads. Put one polish on it, then put a different polish on it. This is a huge NO for me. I write on the back of mine. On the Velcro with a thin marker pen, what polish it's for. 
 
Polishing - use a softer pad, and read the bottle, some like to be wiped off straight away, some like to be left for 10-15 mins, then wiped off. So read the bottle to check what they recommend. 
Again start on a slow speed to spread it out, then increase speed to about 3,500. Again fully break down polish until a hazy finish. 
 
 
Order it should go, you can miss some layers (like glaze) but not re-order them. They should always go in this order. 
1. Clean / wash (with 2 buckets and grit guards) 
2. Dry 
3. Clay / paint cleaner 
4. Cutting 
5. Glaze 
6. Sealer 
7. Polish /wax 
8. Top coat / top sealer (top sealer is different to normal sealer) 
 
You can build up multiple layers if wanted, but it must still be in order. If you've already finished waxed it, you should never go back and glaze it over the top. 
It wouldn't bond to the wax properly, glaze has been made and designed to bond direct to paint / laqucer. Not wax. So the correct order of apply stuff can be very important. 
 

To cut back paint or laqucer and remove swirls and restore, you need a decent compound pad. The likes of halfords pads, and most bought locally are to soft for cutting back. There okay for polishing, but no cutting back. 
I use a menzerna compound pad, and merguiars dimond cut 2.0 cutting compound.  
 
Work small sections at a time, I divide the bonnet in to 3 sections, each door 3 sections, (top section above and around window, middle of door and bump strip, bottom of door below bump strip), Roof in to 5 sections (4 squares at the back, and one section that goes around the sides of sun roof and in front). 
These sections are all in my head, I do not divide them up with tape, some people do but I just keep them in my head. 
I like to tape and cover all black plastics and rubbers, as I find my cutting compound sticks to them very badly, and can only be removed with cleaning alcohol (isopropanol), white spirits or thinners. None of which are idea to be putting on plastic or rubbers. 
Reason I taped up the head lights, and grill was I had already detail cleaned the head lights while they were off the car, and didn't want to have to do it again, and the grill to stop cutting compound and polish flinging into the rads, and getting stuck. And my middle section is black plastic not body colour. 
 
Clay the car 1st to remove tar and sticky spots, as this stops it getting trapped on the buffing pad and getting dragged and moved to other areas of car.  
 
When cutting start on a slow speed to spread the compound out, this stops it slinging everywhere. Then speed up to about 2,500-3,000. I never go above 3,800, no need, my buffer can do 6,000. Never needed more then 3,800, the higher speed doesn't cut or polish any better it just makes more of a mess, as it's to fast. 
Fully break down the cutting compound. Until it turns in to a hazy finish, and isn't white any more.  
Nice even pressure on the head of the buffer. Try and keep the pad flat against the paint. Never uses just the edges of the pad. 
Some areas may require a 2nd maybe even a 3rd cut to get decent result. 
 
I take it your using a DA buffer, not a rotary? 
DA are a lot more forgiving and easier to use. But will take slightly longer for decent end result. 
Rotray can get the job done faster, but take a lot more skill to use, and can cause major damage if used incorrectly. 
 
Never cross contaminate pads. Put one polish on it, then put a different polish on it. This is a huge NO for me. I write on the back of mine. On the Velcro with a thin marker pen, what polish it's for. 
 
Polishing - use a softer pad, and read the bottle, some like to be wiped off straight away, some like to be left for 10-15 mins, then wiped off. So read the bottle to check what they recommend. 
Again start on a slow speed to spread it out, then increase speed to about 3,500. Again fully break down polish until a hazy finish. 
 
 
Order it should go, you can miss some layers (like glaze) but not re-order them. They should always go in this order. 
1. Clean / wash (with 2 buckets and grit guards) 
2. Dry 
3. Clay / paint cleaner 
4. Cutting 
5. Glaze 
6. Sealer 
7. Polish /wax 
8. Top coat / top sealer (top sealer is different to normal sealer) 
 
You can build up multiple layers if wanted, but it must still be in order. If you've already finished waxed it, you should never go back and glaze it over the top. 
It wouldn't bond to the wax properly, glaze has been made and designed to bond direct to paint / laqucer. Not wax. So the correct order of apply stuff can be very important. 
 

To cut back paint or laqucer and remove swirls and restore, you need a decent compound pad. The likes of halfords pads, and most bought locally are to soft for cutting back. There okay for polishing, but no cutting back. 
I use a menzerna compound pad, and merguiars dimond cut 2.0 cutting compound.  
 
Work small sections at a time, I divide the bonnet in to 3 sections, each door 3 sections, (top section above and around window, middle of door and bump strip, bottom of door below bump strip), Roof in to 5 sections (4 squares at the back, and one section that goes around the sides of sun roof and in front). 
These sections are all in my head, I do not divide them up with tape, some people do but I just keep them in my head. 
I like to tape and cover all black plastics and rubbers, as I find my cutting compound sticks to them very badly, and can only be removed with cleaning alcohol (isopropanol), white spirits or thinners. None of which are idea to be putting on plastic or rubbers. 
Reason I taped up the head lights, and grill was I had already detail cleaned the head lights while they were off the car, and didn't want to have to do it again, and the grill to stop cutting compound and polish flinging into the rads, and getting stuck. And my middle section is black plastic not body colour. 
 
Clay the car 1st to remove tar and sticky spots, as this stops it getting trapped on the buffing pad and getting dragged and moved to other areas of car.  
 
When cutting start on a slow speed to spread the compound out, this stops it slinging everywhere. Then speed up to about 2,500-3,000. I never go above 3,800, no need, my buffer can do 6,000. Never needed more then 3,800, the higher speed doesn't cut or polish any better it just makes more of a mess, as it's to fast. 
Fully break down the cutting compound. Until it turns in to a hazy finish, and isn't white any more.  
Nice even pressure on the head of the buffer. Try and keep the pad flat against the paint. Never uses just the edges of the pad. 
Some areas may require a 2nd maybe even a 3rd cut to get decent result. 
 
I take it your using a DA buffer, not a rotary? 
DA are a lot more forgiving and easier to use. But will take slightly longer for decent end result. 
Rotray can get the job done faster, but take a lot more skill to use, and can cause major damage if used incorrectly. 
 
Never cross contaminate pads. Put one polish on it, then put a different polish on it. This is a huge NO for me. I write on the back of mine. On the Velcro with a thin marker pen, what polish it's for. 
 
Polishing - use a softer pad, and read the bottle, some like to be wiped off straight away, some like to be left for 10-15 mins, then wiped off. So read the bottle to check what they recommend. 
Again start on a slow speed to spread it out, then increase speed to about 3,500. Again fully break down polish until a hazy finish. 
 
 
Order it should go, you can miss some layers (like glaze) but not re-order them. They should always go in this order. 
1. Clean / wash (with 2 buckets and grit guards) 
2. Dry 
3. Clay / paint cleaner 
4. Cutting 
5. Glaze 
6. Sealer 
7. Polish /wax 
8. Top coat / top sealer (top sealer is different to normal sealer) 
 
You can build up multiple layers if wanted, but it must still be in order. If you've already finished waxed it, you should never go back and glaze it over the top. 
It wouldn't bond to the wax properly, glaze has been made and designed to bond direct to paint / laqucer. Not wax. So the correct order of apply stuff can be very important. 
 

The replacement engine I bought, OBD2, none air con, 98K. 
I will have to swap over all the air-con stuff as I want to keep it on this car, I may even fit climatronic at a later date. 

 
Started work on it straight away, 
First thing, was hand cranking it over, with spark plugs still fitted, to see if engine gets stiffer and harder to turn, this ment the engine is building compression. 
Next I removed the spark plugs and hand cranked engine over good few times, listing for knocks or rattels. 
I like to remove the spark plugs to do this as it makes the engine easier to crank over, as it will hold no compression. No knocks were found and there were no weak or easier to turn spots either. 
 
Then got the compression tester out, and tested every cylinder. All was good again, so it looks like I have bought a decent replacement engine.  
 
After manually testing the engine I started to rip it apart to replace all outer seals and gaskets. Plus freshen up the whole engine with a good degrease, clean, plus refurbish and repaint stuff. 
Didnt get a photo of engine striped down before painting, but I got quite a few of me paint stuff. 
 
Refurbished gearbox selector, refurbished aux water pump, new oil cooler, refurbished dip stick holder  in heat resistant zinc paint.  
 
Refurbished rear engine mount, again into heat resistant zinc paint.
 
Refurbished all the bolts, left the heads to soak in an acid dip for 24h, quick sand and into zinc paint. 
 
Sanded and painted the exhaust heat shield in black VHT paint.

 
Sanded the starter motor back to bar metal. Acid dipped the front mount, gearbox counter weight, and few other small mounts. Then into zinc primer, finally in to 2K gloss black I had spare from the other VR. 
 
Painted the gearbox and timing chain covers while they were still mounted to engine. Covering and masking everything close to them. 
 
Also painted the block in VHT black paint, plus painted the alternator, bracket, and power steering pump in zinc heat resistant paint. 
 
Few more things to refurbish and paint, then I will start to build it back up, with all new gaskets and seals. 

New engine in, and totally back together. 
New oil and filter, new gearbox oil, new power steering fluid. 
Fill up with deionised water to test for water leaks first. I will drain it next weekend and fill with correct coolant. Apart from one of the sensors in thermostat housing, no leaks, that just need a new O-ring. Happy with that. 
Had a cam sensor issues, swaped it for a spare cam sensor I had that I knew was working, and still had same error, took the ECU out to test the wires, between the ECU plug and cam sensor plug. Everything was fine on the power and pulse wires, so it had to be a broken ground wire in the loom. Rather that un-taping all the loom, I just rand a new wire to the ground. Then tested it with vag-com and no errors, engine ran good, so all seemed good. 
 
Trimmed my battery cover, lent my mothers sewing machine for an evening. 

 
Engine cover still needs finishing, another layer of colour and lacquer. But it all back together. 

 

 

 
Took it out for a drive, and it still felt abit under powered, and the cat was smelling. As I said before I think the cat is almost blocked, so I ordered a hi-flow replacement cat. Should be here this weekend. 
 
As I didn't fancy driving it with a blocked cat, I gave it a good wash and clean again, and got the buffer on it. Tapped up and covered where I didn't want cutting compound and sealer. 
Cut the paint and got 2 layers of sealer on there. Still needs a few layers of wax on top. 


Photos are after only the 1st cut, and there's cutting compound still on the bumper lol I'll get more photos after I finish waxing it. 
 

New engine in, and totally back together. 
New oil and filter, new gearbox oil, new power steering fluid. 
Fill up with deionised water to test for water leaks first. I will drain it next weekend and fill with correct coolant. Apart from one of the sensors in thermostat housing, no leaks, that just need a new O-ring. Happy with that. 
Had a cam sensor issues, swaped it for a spare cam sensor I had that I knew was working, and still had same error, took the ECU out to test the wires, between the ECU plug and cam sensor plug. Everything was fine on the power and pulse wires, so it had to be a broken ground wire in the loom. Rather that un-taping all the loom, I just rand a new wire to the ground. Then tested it with vag-com and no errors, engine ran good, so all seemed good. 
 
Trimmed my battery cover, lent my mothers sewing machine for an evening. 

 
Engine cover still needs finishing, another layer of colour and lacquer. But it all back together. 

 

 

 
Took it out for a drive, and it still felt abit under powered, and the cat was smelling. As I said before I think the cat is almost blocked, so I ordered a hi-flow replacement cat. Should be here this weekend. 
 
As I didn't fancy driving it with a blocked cat, I gave it a good wash and clean again, and got the buffer on it. Tapped up and covered where I didn't want cutting compound and sealer. 
Cut the paint and got 2 layers of sealer on there. Still needs a few layers of wax on top. 


Photos are after only the 1st cut, and there's cutting compound still on the bumper lol I'll get more photos after I finish waxing it. 
 

Cheers buddy, yeah they are becoming more and more rare, mulberry highlines. Why I wanted to save it even thou it had a dodgy engine. Instead of the guy breaking it for parts. 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide
 
 
this link should have all the info you need mate. 

same boost gauge as mine
good minds must think alike. Lol 

It's been a while and last weekend should have been the weekend I was fitting the charger!
All was going well leading Upto the weekend. Got the walbro pump installed.

That was a nice job.
got it all stripped down and got the right belt length for the charger etc...


Then the issue that put a stop to the install. The brass oil injector was damaged and upon torquing it up snapped!
So. New one on order from USA and will go for round 2!
Got the boost gauge and vent pod in the mean time for that OEM look. Very happy with this.

Got the 1/8" fitting on the back now. Had to cut it down so it fits nicely in the vent.

Also this week I've replaced the rear wheel bearings both sides.
Also had an oil leak. Tracked it down to the oil pressure sensors.

Both have been replaced today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We purchased this car in December 2014 and it sat in a garage until early this year where it was prepped ready to show over in Belfast last week at Dubshed 16. 
The car itself is a basic model sporting a 1600cc powerhouse with 22k miles from new. It was in very good original condition but we decided to change a few parts!!! The previous keeper also a member on here brought the car back to life then looked after it until we got it.
So here it is.......

It came with a lot of history that I'll not bore you with!?! It was a real tidy original car so only needed a few tweaks..........
AP Coilovers......

Recaro Colour Concept seats.......

BBS RS 001's.......

So with all the bits n bobs purchased just had to set about them, I polished the wheels up and Del at Optimus trimmed the seats. We managed to source the original materials from Germany to match! 
BBS RS 001's.....



Recaros.......




Things were coming together so it was off to Gerry at Performancetec to fit suspension do alignment and fit the wheels......
Next it was time to remove the ghastly coach lines someone had fitted, unfortunately they were hiding a small area that had been painted on the rear door!!!!

So that was the car all ready it just needed a final lick from Craig Steel at Anonymous detailing, here is how it looked finished!!!!.....




So it was all ready for showing at Dubshed 16! We got a great spot on the GTINI stand right in front of the main stage........

It picked up a wee win too, BEST MK1/MK2.........

So that's it done and dusted, back in the garage. Probably going to sell it on and let someone else enjoy it for what it is! 

First and foremost Happy New Year folks, may your coming days be laden with burnt rubber and trying to use a fortiori statements to avoid fines! 
 
There's always a lot of info on remapping so I thought I would educate you on a few things if you are not au fait with them!
 
A "remap" is such a relative term that they can vary hugely and I think it is important to learn what this entails. Your ecu, be that an older Motronic system like the 12v's or the later ME "electronic" ecu's found in your 24v/R/FSI motors, houses thousands of commands - some are maps like you would expect and some are functions - the ecu performing a task like flicking a switch if you will.
 
When you get a remap it comes down to a wide number of things like who you use, what files the company use if they are re-sellers, work undertaken on that particular ecu and so on.
 
In 99% of cases a remap means manipulating a number of tables to get a good tune and in practice this tends to range from about ten tables to about 200. Main point is to get the air/fuel sorted under various loads and almost all remaps will inexorably have this finite number of changes implemented, but if they work then who's to argue?
 
There are a number of ways in which to do this and various ways to go about it; to cut a long story short these guy's have put some good educational info on the net so have a look at what they say about the various ways in which it can be done in more detail;
 
http://www.motorsport-developments.co.uk/whatismap.html
 
On a live map mods are undertaken in real time so you get a good tune that way, usually requiring some expensive real time measuring probes - if you take a look at the below thread you can see one on the exhaust of the carbon fibre R8 whilst it is being done and the above company say said probe cost them about £8k so never cheap but it is a good way to get a good map! You can get a better map spending months and years tweaking a tune of course but this is not commercially viable unless you are creating bespoke tunes.
 
http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/topic/47106-porn/
 
 
Other ways to tune are what you'll get the vast majority of the time and as mentioned above whereby a finite number of maps are modded to suit, these re-seller "tunes" can in fact range from poor to awesome! Make no mistake though, a name or proven mapping does not a good tune make - just because something works doesn't make it a good tune, one main aspect of that is the fact that many tuners will actually trigger the codewords whereby the ecu will not look at something because that has been triggered and therefore makes it obsolete in it's calculations. In fact I answered to a post on a forum regarding Cat delete on a mk5 R32 and some tuners presumed that switching it off made no difference, but being as anal as I am I know the ecu needs calculations as to to the wall wetting with regards to the exhaust modelling - this is basically where the ecu knows there is a finite amount of fuel dribbled out of the injector as it closes - something the ecu calculates and why if you are anal, you take it into consideration, but there are few tuners who will go into that much detail but say if you were developing an R32 turbo map properly then it is best to cover these things. I always figured that if the ecu wants to calculate this and especially if I was adding 750cc's to a R/V6T then it is something to take into account upon cranking - it's there for a reason!
 
So, to cut a long story short these are your options;
1. Generic re-seller file which can vary depending on how good that particular person is - the vast majority of tunes you get will be these.
2. Live map - expensive but basically done in real time so it'll work regardless of how much detail you go into!
3. Mixture - file flashed over and tweaked to suit.
4. Dog's danglies - basically defining your entire ecu and tweaking it from scratch, what I prefer but can cost a lot commercially and can take days, weeks, months, years even - one of the reasons why it rarely occurs in the trade! Something I would expect a professional race team to do regardless of oem or aftermarket ecu!
 
I noticed the old VVT map discussion on here so if you want me to walk you through it let me know!

That holes for the inlet temperature sensor. 
There should be a small vacuum hose connector next to it as well. 
 
Inlet temprature sensor goes to inlet temprature plug. 
And vacuum pipe gose to fuel regulator. 

Removed the old engine.

 
 
Spend quite some time cleaning up both chassis legs. 

 
Covered all the loom in some black conduit while I had easier access to it.

 
Refurbished the front cross member while still on car, plus fitted new engine mounts. 

 
Re-conditioned engine going in.

 
More to come soon...  

Removed the old engine.

 
 
Spend quite some time cleaning up both chassis legs. 

 
Covered all the loom in some black conduit while I had easier access to it.

 
Refurbished the front cross member while still on car, plus fitted new engine mounts. 

 
Re-conditioned engine going in.

 
More to come soon...  

Refurbished injector bar, new gearbox mount, refurbished center section from front engine mount, in zinc primer and 2K gloss black.  
 
 
Custom front engine mount. Using a polyurethane insert,  2 hockey pucks and extented 12.9 high tensile bolts. 
 
 
Used my old injectors out of my other back VR, as I had them ultrasonicly cleaned, plus they were rebuilt with new baskets and o-rings not long ago. Also used my spare air con water pump pulley. Colour coded in 2k to the same as the car.
 
 
Refurbished the rest of the pulleys and colour coded them.
 
 
Took the front end off, and started to disconnect a few things getting ready to remove the old engine. 

Refurbished injector bar, new gearbox mount, refurbished center section from front engine mount, in zinc primer and 2K gloss black.  
 
 
Custom front engine mount. Using a polyurethane insert,  2 hockey pucks and extented 12.9 high tensile bolts. 
 
 
Used my old injectors out of my other back VR, as I had them ultrasonicly cleaned, plus they were rebuilt with new baskets and o-rings not long ago. Also used my spare air con water pump pulley. Colour coded in 2k to the same as the car.
 
 
Refurbished the rest of the pulleys and colour coded them.
 
 
Took the front end off, and started to disconnect a few things getting ready to remove the old engine. 

Refurbished injector bar, new gearbox mount, refurbished center section from front engine mount, in zinc primer and 2K gloss black.  
 
 
Custom front engine mount. Using a polyurethane insert,  2 hockey pucks and extented 12.9 high tensile bolts. 
 
 
Used my old injectors out of my other back VR, as I had them ultrasonicly cleaned, plus they were rebuilt with new baskets and o-rings not long ago. Also used my spare air con water pump pulley. Colour coded in 2k to the same as the car.
 
 
Refurbished the rest of the pulleys and colour coded them.
 
 
Took the front end off, and started to disconnect a few things getting ready to remove the old engine. 

Refurbished injector bar, new gearbox mount, refurbished center section from front engine mount, in zinc primer and 2K gloss black.  
 
 
Custom front engine mount. Using a polyurethane insert,  2 hockey pucks and extented 12.9 high tensile bolts. 
 
 
Used my old injectors out of my other back VR, as I had them ultrasonicly cleaned, plus they were rebuilt with new baskets and o-rings not long ago. Also used my spare air con water pump pulley. Colour coded in 2k to the same as the car.
 
 
Refurbished the rest of the pulleys and colour coded them.
 
 
Took the front end off, and started to disconnect a few things getting ready to remove the old engine. 

Refurbished injector bar, new gearbox mount, refurbished center section from front engine mount, in zinc primer and 2K gloss black.  
 
 
Custom front engine mount. Using a polyurethane insert,  2 hockey pucks and extented 12.9 high tensile bolts. 
 
 
Used my old injectors out of my other back VR, as I had them ultrasonicly cleaned, plus they were rebuilt with new baskets and o-rings not long ago. Also used my spare air con water pump pulley. Colour coded in 2k to the same as the car.
 
 
Refurbished the rest of the pulleys and colour coded them.
 
 
Took the front end off, and started to disconnect a few things getting ready to remove the old engine. 

Ok so couple of updates made the down pipe up .    pretty much done tacked it up where I wanted  sent it off to be fully welded  going to heat rap it tomorrow but really happy how it turned out with limited space. Also removed the washer bottle going to relocate it in the back with made room for the filter and maf, just bolted the header tank in there to check clearance.    looking abit sad. 

Hi Guys
 
Last time I left you I had got the engine in and running but it wasn't running that well. I finally finished the job I was away on and i have managed to get some hours in on the golf! After scratching my head for a while I decided that the idle issue must have been caused by either a boost/vacuum leak or a dodgy ISV.
 
I decided to start by checking for boost leaks on the inlet track as I wanted to be sure that there were no leaks anyway. I knew this was going to be a bit of a pain as the engine was in and all timed up so at least one valve would be open which would mean it would try and pressurise the whole engine. i managed to get around this by pulling the crank case breather pipe off the oil catch can and plugging it. I then turned the aluminium pipe by the supercharger and fitted a metal plug that had an air line fitting welded to it. Then using one of those crappy electric compressors that you blow your tyres up with i was able to pressurise the inlet track. Using water and fairy liquid in a spray bottle I was able to spray any mating faces/pipes and checks for leaks. It was a good thing I did too as I found a leak on the ISV pipework, a leak on a vaccum line that fed the fuel pressure regulator and a massive leak on the dump valve. The valve head of the dump valve wasn't seating properly on its seat so it was just passing air all the time. I was able to lap the valve head back in to the seat which re-introduced the seal. After fixing all the leaks I then refitted the aluminium elbow and started the car. She ran better but still had the same idle issue. Here are a couple of pictures of the setup I used to check for boost leaks. I was very happy with how well it worked as now I can be sure that I will have no boost leaks that could cause a loss in power, and we don't want that!!! 
 

 

 
After fixing the leaks and not getting rid of the idle issue I was pretty sure that the ISV would be the cause of my problems. I removed the ISV and put 12V to it to check that the flap opened, It didn't! Because I didn't have a spare and couldn't get hold of one quickly I decided to see whether I could fix it myself. I had read on the net that you could put carb cleaner or electrical contact cleaner in them and some times it got them working again. i tried this but it didn't work. I decided to pull it apart so i filed the pressed tabs off the top of the ISV where the power supply connects. I removed the cap which gave me access to the internal working of the ISV. I was then able to tap the centre shaft out of the ISV and this is where the problem was found. When I removed the shaft there was a load of hard brown crap on it. Using some fine emery tape i cleaned up the shaft and fitted the ISV back together. I then put some power to it and boom, The flap opened!!! I refitted the ISV in to the car, started her up and she ran sweet.
 
I am now completing the run in miles on the engine. Hopefully in the next few days I will be able to put up some videos of her being fully opened up.
Speak soon