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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    I'm guessing that the bottom graph is air/fuel ratio? (I can't see very well on my phone) It appears though that at 5k revs the fueling starts to go towards the lean side. This would cause the problem with the funny power graph at the end. I also find it weird how the A/F sits at 9.5 for so long, its like something isn't reading until 4.5k revs, then its adjusting the fueling :-s You could do with comparing it with another dyno plot from a VR6 with the AF ratio graph on too. United Motorsports are probably the ones to ask regarding the issue. As for interference, I did a car at work not long a
  2. russj249
    I have this problem too.. had my tracking done loads of times at different places, New everything has been fitted inc. Coilivers and it still pulls slightly to the left, meaning I have to hold down on the right side of the wheel constantly (not hard, but just to support it) Also I had it on old mix of 4 different tyres on standard vr6 wheels, then 4 Goodyear eagle f1's on bbs, and now 4 brand new Pirelli P Zero's so can rule out tyres for me!
  3. russj249
    I can't be much help with this but United Motorsports do sump baffles I believe, or speak to Jim Potter (jpautomotive) and they'll tell you all you need to know.
  4. russj249
    Haha yes I can understand why you'd use the 4Moas the winter car lol. Wouldn't fancy the Aston in the snow! I did look at a VW 4mo and the Quattro Audi range but the cars themselves are more expensive so a purpose built 4x4 got chosen instead lol
  5. russj249
    As the weather is changing, and not wanting to use my VR in the crap weather and snow, I've just bought a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 to use over the winter! Belive it or not, its dirt cheap to insure, I'm now 22 and been driving nearly 5 years, my Mrs is 21 and been driving 2 years. For me as a main driver and her as a named driver its cost me £500 a year!! The diesel Jeep is £800 a year, and 4.0 V8 is £700 but the top of the range 4.7 V8 Limited is £500, love to know how that works! So as a bit if fun, what's your winter car or everyday car over the winter? Pictures are always good t
  6. russj249
    I was looking at this the other day. I was watching a YouTube video of the new Golf R with DSG box.. it can be found seaching for 'Golf R acceleration' there's a speedo video.. from wat I can see, it goesfrom 0-60 very quick, and then it looks like it runs out of steam after that. I was thinking is this because it doesn't have as much torque or pull as other larger N/A and turbo engines?
  7. russj249
    I just removed the sump, did an oil and filter change at the same time.
  8. russj249
    Love the credits at the end... 'please hoon responsibly!'
  9. russj249
    *any metal filings... And do the injectors say 0280 150 321? The Saab turbo injectors.
  10. russj249
    Just for the loud screaching noise, and metal filings or anything in the boost pipe? Has a turbo at work recently that the bearings went and impeller was shifting into the casings under load, making a hell of a screeching noise, and as a supercharger is kind of a belt driven turbo it could be a bearing issue somewhere.
  11. russj249
    Or do my other trick when the Mrs is out and stick it in the dishwasher haha
  12. russj249
    Is yours broken or just dirty? Either way if you got a second hand one, leave it to soak overnight in hot water with TFR or some sort of de-greaser. Leave it to soak then rinse of with clean water and leave to dry and they come up like new.
  13. russj249
    Supposedly you can call someone on the otherside of the country and it will sound as if their in the same room. This might be like them gold plated hdmi cables though.. Well that's no good cuz you can't pretend the lines breaking up when on the phone to the Mrs! She will be able to tell the difference between interference and scrunching up paper down the microphone whilst saying 'what, what, I can't hear you' before the line cuts off lol
  14. russj249
    lol I once did a leaf check on my own, pulling each lead off and putting a spark plug in, holding the lead so plug was touching manifold and reaching round to crank the car over. All was going well till number 6, which was a bit of a stretch, I never gave it a thought but as I was reaching round tand looking to see for a spark, my neck was touching the bonnet.. needless to say i got shocked, but earthed out on my neck, so you imagine that jolt in your neck as well as your hand haha.. I haven't done it on my own since that! haha
  15. russj249
    Haha never mind, at least you can have a go if the araldite doesn't work. Could use an old soldering iron to do it with, that way you won't have to keep heating up a skewer or screwdriver.
  16. russj249
    Ah ok.. mine was leakih somehow between the sensor thing and the elbow itself. I think I know where you mean though.. on the elbow bit itself undearneath where the little spout is attached. I did a fix on mine which worked, but you'd have tobe super careful doing it. I used a heated up skewer to melt the plastic together where it had split. If you've ever welded before or brazed it was kind of similar, just melting both the spout bit and the elbow and getting them to fuse together. A little tricky but that's how I did mine.
  17. russj249
    I had the same issue with mine.. as I was pushing the crack pipe in the o ring was popping out the seal and leaking. Do what Pete has said with cleaning the block, then make sure it pushes in flush and not one side before the other.
  18. russj249
    That's assuming you mean where the blanked off grey plastic sensor pushes into the elbow.
  19. russj249
    I just used a jubilee clip on the intake bend so it wasn't just a push fit, it pushes in and clamps in. I couldn't pull it back out when it was tightened up.
  20. russj249
    That's amazing, but surely this has to be a better pub trick rubix cube solve! lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41PdsCbeJ-I&feature=youtube_gdata_player
  21. russj249
    That has to be the loudest Lego ever! Haha
  22. russj249
    Erm, in theory as long as the vacuum is fully blanked off, you should be able to get away with not having a PCV valve, however there will be a blue valve on the left hand side somewhere probably just left loose. This is for fuel tank vapours to be recirculated into the engine.. the ecu will count for this so it needs to be going into the inlet somehow. Also it may just be a faulty idle control valve. Ideally you need to get it on vag-com and see the values for it.
  23. russj249
    Also, there is a bit of loom that has been re-taped up for some reason, this is the loom for the throttle position sensor. Just make sure this is all working. Ideally you could do with putting it on vag-com and check throttle position percentage values.
  24. russj249
    First pic is idle control valve, which should definitely be plugged in. My guess is he has adjusted the screw on the throttle body to raise the idle that way instead, which is ok when its warm but won't idle from cold. Second pic is a blanked off vacuum home that should go to a plastic PCV valve, which is missing on yours and has been fitted with a bit of rubber hose instead. Lots of problems on these so google search for vr6 PCV valve and you'll see what its meant to look like. Third pic isn't an issue as the plastic plug is only for US cars for emissions related stuff.. if you look in the co
  25. russj249
    Not changed my VR6 pump, but ablot of pumps I've changed in the past feature built in core plug type things. Got a good chance its that.
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