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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    Oh, and even with air con, I always found that if you drop the front panel off and the rad, there's enough flex in the air con pipes that you can swing it out the way or under the car without loosing any gas.
  2. russj249
    Agree 100% with Craig, I tried to do mine with front end uin place, looked perfect, however I didn't / couldn't see that the o ring water pump side had slid out, so after pouring half a gallon of anti freeze in the bottle, it swiftly got wasted all on the floor. As for the fitting, simple enough to do, but the problem is trying to get the water pump side in without and problems. Also, I presure by flicking through some of the forums, you're aware of the Stainless Steel Crack Pipe replacement. I would tell anyone to get one, you'll never need to replace it again. They are a little more to buy,
  3. russj249

    turbo kit

    russj249 replied to leespiro's topic in Engine Tuning

    The only issue you may have with that is that it'll be for left hand drive cars, meaning it'll be a pain to fit and lots of stuff will need modifying. Stick to the UK stuff, and someone who knows what they're doing lol such as Jim!
  4. russj249
    The later chains are different.. if you drop the timing covers off, you'll see that the early OBD1's are a twin top chain and the later type ones are only a single chain.. Unfortunately, it does mean that they aren't interchangeable There are also differences in the top tensioner, as the early ones are oil fed and you have to bleed then before fitting.
  5. russj249
    As above, just need to know if 2 lefts for instance would work from 2 seperate cars. Looks like the same casting, just upside down on the one side. Just need clarification that's all. Cheers
  6. russj249
    Could be a wire to the fuel pump shorting out somewhere, or the fuel pump itself shorting out. Take up the boot carpet, and remove the blanking plate with 3 screws in. That will give access to the top of the fuel pump sender. Have a quick look for any damaged wires going through the hole, and any damage to the plug. It way be worth checking if you have continuety down the pump wires, if you have any wires connected to ground other than the earth wire, you have a wire problem somewhere.
  7. russj249
    If its a track car, would you not be best with an aftermarket momo type wheel? All you would need is the boss, and the wheel. Then come mot time, just put the standard one back on so the airbag light isn't on.
  8. russj249
    Mk4 will not fit.. I'm guessing you like the look of the mk4 gti 3 spoke wheel.. unfortunately, they dont fit. However, the exact same wheel is in the mk3.5 convertibles with a mk3 fitment.. bad thing is they cost a fortune!
  9. russj249
    If you can hear them click, and feel them click, its a good indication, but they can still click and be faulty. Have a go and let us know of the results, also test to see if you have spart too as said above.
  10. russj249
    Have a search for 'Bonrath Power Rohr' intake pipe.. the OBD1's and 2's will work, however using an OBD1 on yours would mean you'd just have to blank off the spout to the idle control valve.
  11. russj249
  12. russj249
    I would imagine (but correct me if I'm wrong) that the A3 seats may possibly have the same seat frame as the Golf MK4, in which case, they are not a direct fit, but with some precision bodging to the seat frames they can be made to fit. So I suppose the answer is how good are you with a grinder and a welder? lol
  13. russj249
    lol never fixed it I tried a new steering wheel with new airbag but didn't make any difference. I'm thinking something in the steering column somewhere, but haven't been bothered to go into it in detail.
  14. russj249
    Oh, and gearbox removal is necessary for bottom guides and chains etc
  15. russj249
    Yes you can change the top tensioner without much work. It's a 27mm bolt on the back. However its not normally these that go, chances are more like that the plastic tensioner and guide that have worn down not the tensioning bolt. Removal of the top cover is 100% recommended, which by the time you've done that, removed rocker cover, inlet manifold etc, you may as well change the chains and the lot.. and if you replace the top, you may as well replace the bottom etc etc You should PM a chap on here called Tony, he will sort a good price for chains if he's over your way. And from personal experia
  16. russj249
    I used a week old 15 quid stainless steel mesh bird feeder for my meshing! It was rolled round so just had to unravel it Didn't take long for my girlfriend to notice that the bird feeder was 4.5 inches shorter though haha especially as it was only 10 inches tall anyway! Needs must though, and where else can I get a stainless 5mm x 5mm mesh for free
  17. russj249
    Is there any members over you're way that you can swap over and test.. however if I get chance tomorrow, I will unplug my cam sensor with it running and see what happens.
  18. russj249
    Hmm very odd. Can't say I've actually tried in the vr6, but normally if you unplug one or the other it won't start, unless the cam and crank sensors line up, it won't fire, but I can't be sure. Also I would think that cam sensor would come up as a fault, so maybe get it plugged in, I would have thought that it would come up with a code such as cam sensor incorrect signal or no signal etc, although when you do test it, because the engine isn't running, a code for engine speed sensor will come up anyway. Erm... Lol maybe get a know working one and try it in there?
  19. russj249
    It would normally make it run badly.. but once its got a pick up from the crank sensor it might be ok. Try unplugging it and then starting the car. See what happens.
  20. russj249
    Get hold of a mk3 syncro setup would he easier, but probably rather expensive, also have to completely modify the boot floor etc. Or depending how much they are and how many are left, out all of you're stuff into a syncro so its already done
  21. russj249
    167 is fuel pump 109 is engine management main relay 18 is a load reduction relay What else have you tried to solve the idling problem? Have you checked all of the pipes for air leaks? Is the crankcase breather valve at the back left split? Have you tried a known working idle control valve on it? Quite a few things really.. but I'm sure we can get to the bottom of it lol
  22. russj249
    Yea low end responce is much better.. but even mid range and top end too. I used to have a flat spot as I changed into 2nd before at around 2k revs, I learnt how to drive round it, but now that is better and doesn't have a flat spot at all. I can dig out some pics, but I'm on my phone as PC has packed up, so might take me a while. And for you're questions, I'm using a short runner manifold, intercooler pipework is as short and as direct as I could make it.. Also injectors I'm using Bosch 585's if I remember correct.. the green 440's, but I'm using them at 4 bar being OBD1 so probably getting
  23. russj249
    I know it shouldn't.. but for some reason it does lol.. I will have to get it on the snap on machine at work, and see what the air flow meter is reading, and then change the air filter and see what it reads after. Have you seen the link to the style filter I have currently? As I think its the inner cone bit with the metal centre that's the issue.
  24. russj249
    I know that now lol.. but unfortunetely I had it mapped with the filter directly on the MAF, so if I put the air filter further away, it still plays up. My own fault really. Ideally, I have the maf far enough away from the turbo now, but need the filter further away from the maf. It's not really a problem now though, just need another air filter the same as what I have.. until I have it mapped again, in which case I will move it further away or use a different filter before it goes back on the dyno. I don't have any pics of it where it is now, bit imagine the air filter kind of above where the
  25. russj249
    Hi Jim, thanks for the offer, however I do now have a massive RAM-AIR filter, and a HKS mushroom filter for no reason now basically because of the shape of that air filter, unless I get it mapped again, it ain't gonna work as the airflow with the filter I'm using is being directe around the MAF and all the other filters focus the airflow in the centre of the MAF.
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