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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    Idle control valve on an OBD1 is just to the right of the throttle body. There's a pipe going in from the plastic inlet to it, and a pipe going to the inlet manifold. It should be plugged in really otherwise it will hunt. I would try and get a standard throttle body just to test, plug idle valve in and go from there. They are fairly common to play up.
  2. russj249
    Nope.. unless somebody has put one in themselves.
  3. russj249
    Hmm sounds to me like you might have an air leak.. maybe one of the vacuum lines or the plastic PCV valve on the rocker cover has split.
  4. russj249
    That's gone straight into inbox as normal. Also message content is normal Was hoping for a message saying 'test' so I could send one back saying 'ickle' lol childish or what
  5. russj249
    Send me a PM if you like Pete as a test. They always come through as Inbox on hotmail. I can let you know the results for me then.
  6. russj249
    will explain in a min, but just out of interest, where did you buy the car from?
  7. russj249
    Yea that's pretty perfect for summers use to be honest. I would only think about one if you're doing track days and if the temp often exceeds close to 110. When I did my turbo conversion I didn't run a cooler and that was between 102 and 108 on a run which I think is a little too high.
  8. russj249
    Oil pressure? It's oil temp That's about normal for an N/A car really. Especially if the weather is a bit warmer. I haven't clicked on your link but if you're after an oil cooler go for a Mocal oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate. I have a 13 row cooler with a turbo, and its always between 96 and 100. Sometimes up to 102 with a play, but soon drops back down.
  9. russj249
    Also just a thought, probably won't make.much difference on an alternator, normally its starter motors, but get yourself a jump lead, and attach it to the engine somewhere, preferably where the lifting points are, then the other end onto the negative side of the terminal, this will in effect make a better earth for the engine, so retry the alt output test. Just make sure you put it to the negative side of the battery or things are gonna get sparky and blown!
  10. russj249
    The alternator normally regulates the voltage itself. The plastic cover hides the 'rectifier pack' which is all the diodes that convert the AC voltage into the DC voltage that the car needs. Also normally built into the rectifier circuit is an overload circuit which should control the voltage and prevent it from going over approx 15v ish.
  11. russj249
    Does the motor work? Check there is no broken wires in the rubber pipe from B post to the door. Try holding finger on button and opening and shutting the door.. see if the window jumps at all.
  12. russj249
    Does the battery light come on the dash. I have had a couple of cases (not on VW though) where the dashlight bulb has failed and caused the alternator to not operate correctly.
  13. russj249
    Definitely sounds more like the engine speed sensor to me rather than the clocks. Also if it can't tell your speed, you will lose the trip distance etc too so that will be linked. I'm not sure of any testing methods you can use for testing the speed sensor regarding resistance and voltage readings, so might just have to try one on the off chance.
  14. russj249
    That's it then lol.. just didn't know if there was a test and calibration like you can do with the BMW's.. just a thought lol.. I'll just poke them as close to zero as I can! Can check speed and rpm from the digital display for my launch control so that's not a problem. Just the fuel really! Might need to test the revs and speedo dials go fully round on the way to Wales next weekend! lol
  15. russj249
    Is there any proper way to fit the needles. Had my clocks apart tonight to fix my LCD backlight on the left screen.. but now I have to put the needles back on.. is it just a case of poke them as close to 0 as possible, but making sure that the little motors can go fully off the dials? Cheers in advance
  16. russj249
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=360264497516 Ta-Da!
  17. russj249
    ebay.. I got one for a couple of quid. Was a company called 'car aeriels and masts' or something like that. Can also fit it without fully removing the aeriel too.. just undo the nut from above the head lining and pull it ho a bit, out the new rubber in warm water and then you can just stretch it over without pulling any wires out.
  18. russj249

    Rolling crash

    russj249 replied to bungy's topic in General Chat

    Wasn't it the Pikes Peak challenge that this happened? very bad accident
  19. russj249
    If I was you, and I imagine most people on here will agree, do the crack pipe regardless. You may as well do it as you're in the perfect opportunity to do it, and those things are so brittle, it might look ok to the eye but the smallest crack and it'll go. Definitely worth putting in a stainless steel replacement too if your budget will stretch for it. Well worth it in my opinion. But good luck with everything you picked the better time of the year to do it.. I always do my projects in the middle of winter lol
  20. russj249
    Thoughts please... But seriously, how thick can some people be!?
  21. russj249
    That sounds a bit dodgy.. 'a big one' meaning a quirk lol (just better clear that up haha) Also now you got me thinking, I do have a few more.. I have 2 annoying squeaks inside the car, one sounds like the springs under the passenger seat, and the other is the plastic steering wheel surround rubs of something and sounds like polystyrene when you put your foot down! Because I have a 3 inch exhaust, and coilovers, my exhaust constantly rubs on the rear axle which gets proper annoying on rough roads, but nothing I can really do! Now and again it decides to idle at 1200rpm, which is a bit awkward
  22. russj249
    Yea I have a big one! Driving carefully but in traffic I can squeeze 110 miles on £50 of fuel! Haha Economical or what ay!
  23. russj249
    Ok.. i have to say it does sound exactly like immobiliser.. ideally there's a couple of things you could do. I know you say its broke, but really need to get the car on VCDS.. click on 'immobiliser' then into measuring blocks. On there press the 'up' button, and it says if transponder is recognised. Now in theory it should say yes, but turn the engine off so it plays up and try it again. See what the results show and if it is the immobilized kicking in. Also I'm not sure how the United Motorsport immob delete works, but I am just thinking if the ecu needs to power down when the car is turned o
  24. russj249
    When you say its runs for a second then cuts out.. do you mean exactly 1 second or as a rough term? Also in this second, will the car rev up if started with throttle on, but still cut out?
  25. russj249
    Yep all normal without the abs connected.. can't remember which relay it us, but if its on constantly.. try and feel which one buzzes and pull it out! Shouldn't be a problem doing that.. just make sure its plugged in before diagnostics obviously
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