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russj249

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Everything posted by russj249

  1. russj249
    Sorry mate I ain't got one I thought I did but only have them after it was removed my air con to stick an intercooler in its place. It does sound like it though. It will bolt directly to the front of the coolant radiator with 4 x 8mm screws, one in each corner. What kind of plug is it? and even though you don't have a button, does it have any air con pipes or compressor in the engine bay?
  2. russj249
    Sounds like an air con rad.. let me see if I have any pics with my front end off...
  3. russj249

    No speedo?

    russj249 replied to Mwimab's topic in The MK2

    As Tony said, if you've had the gearbox off, then you would have had to remove the Speedo sensor plug off the box. As you look at the box from above, its almost on the diff at the back. If I remember right there are 3 wires going to it, purple, white/blue tracer and black or something similar. Just double check that connection before doing anything with the clocks. If it was working before, and isn't now, just retrace your steps and you'll find it.
  4. russj249
    LOL I tried to count the rear ones as someone's selling them.on eBay.. tried to use the picture to do the same, but kept loosing count!
  5. russj249
    Obviously I can't see to count them on the car, and have searched the net for ages, but I need to know how many ABS teeth are on the ring gears.. front and rear please I need to enter the data as traction control is all over the place at the moment.
  6. russj249
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  7. russj249
    Sorted thanks
  8. russj249
    Just a quick one that's bugging me now. All the data on VCDS shows everything regarding ISV working ok but... If I come to a junction, out it in neutral, or foot on clutch it revs at 1200rpm, after about 5 - 10 seconds of sitting in traffic at 1200rpm, it drops to around 800. If I'm in traffic, and pull forwards as normal, it rises back up to 1200 for another 5 - 10 seconds, then back down to 800.. Any ideas before I change the ISV valve?
  9. russj249
    Has anyone got a launch control traction control wiring diagram from racelogic. The ones on their website in the manual is terrible. I have the diagrams from Autodata for the ABS and engine management, just could do with a diagram for the controller and box bit. And if it makes any difference its got the digital adjuster.
  10. russj249
    Ah that's brilliant, glad its all sorted.. can enjoy thecar properly in the sun now!
  11. russj249
    Ooh, mine had arrows on as well as a casting number. Odd.
  12. russj249
    Don't the con rod caps have to go on with 3 arrows pointing to the gearbox, and 3 pointing to the aux belt side. When I changed to ARP con rod bolts I found that out. Couldn't turn it by hand and only put 1 on backwards
  13. russj249
  14. russj249
    I'm really hoping the coilpack is unplugged for this test!
  15. russj249
    Unplug the air flow meter and take it for a spin. If its the same or better its the air flow meter that's faulty.
  16. russj249
    When you say no pull, do you mean you put foot to floor but nothing really happens. Ideally you need to have it checked for any fault codes. Could be anything from coilpack to air flow meter. Also what's it like in other gears?
  17. russj249
    Lol its really weird for me as never been to the meets before, so had a mental image of everyone, but nobody looks like I though lol like you do with people off the radio! And LOL at 'Bungy's' picture with his Jizer out!
  18. russj249
    Blocked exhaust? See if it will hit the limiter if.you gradually raise the revs at a standstill. Gone through a phase of blocked exhausts at work recently for some reason
  19. russj249
    I would have been able to help, but I don't have vag com anymore had it on an old laptop which broke so I just binned it! I'm only up the road from you in Kingswinford. There's a dyno place in wombourne that has a new version of VCDS.. I'm sure he'd chuck it on for you and tell you. The company is called Performance Torque, and specialise in VW Audi stuff. Have a word with Wil, they're numbers on their website.
  20. russj249
    I have a standard Sachs clutch in my turbo.. its 360bhp and 340ft lbs torque and it handles it ok. I haven't got an LSD just yet though, which is probably easier on the clutch as the wheels spin a little easier. Been running it since December and still feels like it did when I did the conversion. However, money no object, and while you're fitting an LSD, put a helix in, its just easier in the long run, and future proofs your car.
  21. russj249

    Spammers

    russj249 replied to oldmandon's topic in General Chat

    Just a thought, I have no clue when it comes to security etc on websites, but would it be possible to block them another way.. I was thinking of making a field in the Sign Ul but mandatory. My theory is if you made the location field a mandatory field, could you not block certain words? such as if 'china' was entered into the location field, it would prevent them from signing up. Maybe the same kind of way that it would bring an error message up if incorrect characters are used in a login name? Just a thought, but not got a clue how it would work in real life.
  22. russj249
    Easy method, 4 13mm bolts behind lights, and 2 10mm bolts at the top where the plastic panel meets the wings almost. You'll see the 2 black bolts. Bonnet catch is self explanatory when you get to it, then its just pipes and wires. Oh and those wheel arch clips. Just poke a screwdriver through the middle.
  23. russj249
    Oh yea.. forgot about that super simple way of doing it!! I have to take my bumper off to get the intercooler pipes off first so haven't done it the easy way in a while!
  24. russj249
    Haha reminds me of when my mom and dad came back off holiday with my front end in the living room looking like a fireplace surround!
  25. russj249
    Pretty simple really. Grill pops out with the retaining clips across the front, and 2 hidden ones under the lights. Bumper, remove the 2 clips each side that fix the arch lining to bumper.. try not to loose the plastic inserts as you poke then through.. then there's the 3 10mm bolts you can see from above after removing the grill. There's also 4 or 5 more underneath facing upwards, where the radiator cut out is, and 1 in each little vent thing in the lower bumper. It'll pull forwards, so unplug fog lights and indicators. Then you have a metal bar, remove the 2 x 10mm bolts that secure the meta
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