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Knightrider

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Everything posted by Knightrider

  1. Knightrider
    Depends what you are trying to achieve. Looks or actually handling better. Looks, lower like crazy, handling go 35-40mm.
  2. Knightrider
    Toyo T1Rs all round. Very impressed. Wear is good, grip great and really pretty cheap on the interwobbler. Also quite quiet....which is nice.
  3. Knightrider
    Pearsy, I'm in Sussex, it rains! How come not in the wet yet....or are they very new?
  4. Knightrider
    Dave, as far as I'm aware the adjustment, be it on or off the car, is only for the rebound, NOT the compression. So the issue with the car 'sitting' and tyres rubbing the arches won't go away by adjusting them stiffer. The main thing that I thought was interesting in those items that I posted links to was how unreliable the adjustment was. So if you give both fronts a 180 degree turn from 'least' and assume that the rebound will now be identical left and right....it potentially won't be. Incidentally, the guy reckons that KONIs are actually better than most others. I've sent my 'bought used' f
  5. Knightrider
    No idea, but prob not the best plan to do that! Peak power on the standard engine is way below that and so it is probably not worth reving it to that level. Change up earlier?
  6. Knightrider
    Jetex and I'm sure others do a 2 box replacement that eliminates the 'suitcase' box. Sure they sell the individual components to do this as well.
  7. Knightrider
    Have a look at this that I posted a while ago. It's a US test that gives details how a load of exhausts performed. Jetex came joint top. I’ve posted this link elsewhere in The Garage. http://www.newdimensions.com/00_global/06_med/articles/2004-12/index.asp
  8. Knightrider
    Hi Everyone, here are a couple of really interesting articles (blogs basically) by a US guy who is a damper guru. Raced Jap stuff, but did a load of research: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets18.html It is REALLY technical, but worth a read. The totally scary thing is how variable even new dampers (ordinary or coilies) are out of the box, especially on rebound, and how irregular the adjustment can be - clicks version or Koni smooth turn version. Here is a lift from the website: Amazingly, save those brands mentioned in that earlier li
  9. Knightrider
    Right, done more research! Too much time on my hands, clearly (which is actually true!). The adjustment on Konis is only on the rebound, not the 'bump' or compresion stroke. I've found a really interesting couple of long blogs by a US guy who is a damper guru. Raced Jap stuff, but did a load of research. I'm going to post it separately, but here are the two links. Unless you read the linked stuff, some of the terminology in this summary doesn't mean much (for example, the shim stack, but all becomes clear when you read the blogs - shim stacks are key!!!): http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_se
  10. Knightrider
    Long delay, sorry! You need to take it to a 'proper' place that has a CORGHI or eqivalent. The laser checking kit is fixed to the wall or a gantry. 4 post ramp and they do it with the car up on the ramp. The machines cost about £60,000!! So you should be able to tell. You get a sophisticated print-out which covers toe, caster, camber, front and back, not all adjustable on a VR, with 'standard' tolerences and where yours is compared to that. Green in tolerance, red outside. It should be a free check, only charge if they adjust. Most serious body shops have these machines....to see if cars they
  11. Knightrider
    Bryn, have you fitted the rear 28mm yet? Interested to know the effect. The Eibach front and rear that I fitted has hugely reduced overall role, but I'm disappointed with the 'turn-in', hasn't really made it feel any sharper and it still feels under-steery. Maybe Eibach et al make sure they keep the understeer - or they'd get sued if people found the back snapping out and couldn't control it, probably as you say, only in the wet. I might put the standard one back on the front and take off the front Eibach, see what happens.
  12. Knightrider
    I think mine have been 'in use' for about 8 years. The bottom of the strut has lost most of it's paint and is quite rusty. The bloke I bought them from bought them from someone else, so I think he just invented '2 years old'!! Still, don't think it matters. My front (the non leaking one) is really easy to push down. The adjustment seems to mainly affect the return or rebound. On soft, it returns to full extension quite fast. When I set to full hard, it doesn't and you have to pull it like crazy and even then it returns really slowly - return goes like a rock, but no apparent difference to comp
  13. Knightrider
    I understood that the rear 'plusaxle' with the original bushes is supposed to provide (beneficial?) rear steering to aid cornering....and that the polies don't provide that as they are much stiffer and of a different design, so the rear steering effect is lost. Is this true? I'm about to put a KONI SSK Sports kit on mine (only lowers about 30mm) and although the rear bushes have passed an MOT recently, I'm thinking of changing them as they are fairly knackered, albeit not yet failures, on the basis that the rest of the suspension needs to be in good shape to get the max from the suspension upg
  14. Knightrider
    Answering my own question having done some research - because I thought it might help members. Paul Drake, Raceline Suspension in Newbury. Gave me plenty of time and advice on the phone. Really helpful and very knowledgeable bloke. He re-valves shocks for folk who are racing cars to provide the ride/damping they need/want and can advise. KONI specialist but can refurb almost any make, including coilies, except Bilstein. There is a 4 digit code on KONIs stamped into the casing that tells you the date manufatured. Mine is 0302, so despite the guy I bought them from telling me they were '2 year
  15. Knightrider
    Bump
  16. Knightrider
    Hello? No-one any ideas?
  17. Knightrider
    Bought a used Koni SSk Sport kit (Vogtland springs and Koni adjustable dampers) the other day for £150. I feel like a right git as I didn't notice that one of the fronts had been leaking oil, only spotted it when I got them home and dismantled to clean them up before fitting. I believe that they can be refurbished. Anyone know who can do this well and for sensible money? Any recommendations? I'm in Sussex, so somewhere not too far would be good, so I can drive there rather than post.
  18. Knightrider
    Are you just fitting the 28mm rear ARB....or uprating the fronts as well? If just the back, I'd really like to know how it feels. Reading all the techy stuff about ARBs a bar that big on the back only should take her into oversteer mode and dial out ALL the understeer - have to watch it in the wet, but should make the turn in electric! I've just put on the Eibach 22/25 the other day. Massive improvement, but still doesn't have the turn-in I'd like. Keep us updated!!
  19. Knightrider
    I'm in Nutley, would defo be up for it. How about somewhere near Hailsham? Bit less of a treck for the Crawley fellas. Any one got an idea for a suitable venue, Hailsham or Eastbourne?
  20. Knightrider
    It doesn't look as if Justmatz do them in the purple colour for Mulberrys....or am I missing something?
  21. Knightrider
    Agree with Rikki's link. I've found Camskill to be the cheapest, certainly for Toyos. Got 205/5015 Proxies T1-R and they are great - quiet, grippy and lasting OK. I've put mine at VW recomended pressure, which seems very high, 38 psi F and 34 psi R. Stops the wall flex and stops them knocking out the edges, which they seem a bit prone to. For fitting, find a small, local independant and plead poverty!
  22. Knightrider
    I've just bought a used Koni SSK Sport kit which has these dampers and Vogtland progressive 30mm drop springs. I've got standard suspension with an Eibach ARB kit fitted. As that has made the ride a bit harsher, I was going to put the backs on minimum and then mess around with the fronts. Be interesting to hear from other folk how they have set the rears and the ride/handling results.
  23. Knightrider
    Unless you have a 2 post ramp on your driveway, and a press handy, I reckon that it will be a mission! Which ones are you planning on changing?
  24. Knightrider
    Did you take a look? Pretty thorough assesmnet I thought. I'm saving up for a 2 box Jetex for my Golf. My son has one on a VR6 Corrado and it sounds great and has improved throttle response. Quiet and nice discreet deep throb on tickover and at low revs, under small throttle, nice howl when at full chat. Went on great - not sure why the Yanks are whining about fitment? His went on really easy. I am very impressed and I don't have one yet.
  25. Knightrider
    Thanks B7D Vr. I don't think at the time that they a) wanted to change the 'brochure' make them even harder to insure c) make them look as powerful as the the 2.9 Corrado!!
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