Jump to content

Knightrider

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    158

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Knightrider

  1. Knightrider
    Clearly something badly wrong (sorry, stating the bleeding obvious!). I did 75 miles Reading to East Grinstead on Wednesday, not caning it, M4, thru Bracknell, M3, M25 and some country roads and the puter said 33mpg. Mine rarely drops below about 24mpg. Standard car.
  2. Knightrider
    Just put a pair of Toyo Proxes T1-R on the front (bog standard 1997 VR6). First impressions: much better feel, more precise, great dry grip. Most amazing is the comfort, quietness. Used to steer round all the gratings and pot-holes because of the crashing - its gone with the Toyos, deep joy. I did not buy them from Black Circles, but wished I had - incredibly cheap! Toyo Proxes T1-R 205/50/15V are £203 for 4 delivered inc VAT.
  3. Knightrider
    Why not set the coilovers to a height where the lower wishbone and steering arm are parallel to the ground? I've not used coilovers so I don't know how much of a mission that would be. Then see how it handles.
  4. Knightrider
    Hope that was useful Phat. I don't know about the bump stops, sorry. A bit like the guy at Balance Motorsport, I am on a slight mission to at least explain to folk that really slam their cars that it will actually screw the handling - probably looks good though!!
  5. Knightrider
    As you have re-newed the plugs and leads, it is very probably the coilpack - your symptoms sound exactly like mine. Hesitating and missing in the 1000 to 2000 range especially when under load and in a high gear (as you do in a VR if you are cruising, not thrashing). Does it make it a pig to drive unless you rev it to 3,000 and above? That is what mine was like. On tickover, does it have an occaisional hesitation - you have to listen carefully, like a little 'putt'? Take off the coilpack and inspect it for cracks, mine had a small crack (but under a plastic cover that is attached to it). If so,
  6. Knightrider
    Phat, all you ever wanted to know about bump steer and a lot you didn't here: http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13
  7. Knightrider
    The steering arms from rack to wheel are designed to operate correctly within a range defined by the engineer who designed the suspension originally. By lowering the car excessively, you can take the steering arm angle outside that range. At this point the suspension geometry becomes badly impacted by bump steer. Whilst you have lowered the centre of gravity, the suspension is no longer working as designed. Bumps steer is due to the radii of the steering arm and the wishbone being disproportionate. As the suspension compresses the radii acts on the steering arm and momentarily steers the offen
  8. Knightrider
    Yeah, tried it with it running and switched off. He is an ex VW main dealer guy. Thinks it is the wiring to the plug in???
  9. Knightrider
    Did leads, plugs and then coilpack from the guys in the last post - fixed by the new coilpack, running perfectly. The knackered coilpack was a non VW OEM one by BBT Automotive of Germany. Get the VW one!
  10. Knightrider
    Got a new coilpack - proper job VW as the non OE one had gone wrong - for £142 inc. VAT. VAG have set up a number of 'parts only' dealers who sell proper VW OE parts to the trade at good prices. They will deal with the retail punter. That is where I got mine. Find yor local one, they are good.
  11. Knightrider
    Went to a guy with a VAG 1551 diagnostic computer today to get my misfire fixed and it got nothing from my car....would not communicate at all. Any idea why? Could the wiring to the port be broken? Anyone had this problem? If so, ow can it be fixed?
  12. Knightrider
    Trix, is that the Whiteline they do for the rear? If so, have you done anything with the front ARB? Don't think they do a front do they? Their rear one BWR14Z is 22mm according to Balace Motorsport who sell 'em?? http://www.balancemotorsport.co.uk/
  13. Knightrider
    The knackered coilpack on mine was NOT an OE VW one, It was from BBT Automotive which is why I think it failed - put on by previous owner who had the car 10 years. I don't trust putting non VW items on for electronicy type things. If your car is 1993 it may not have a coilpack. There are others on the forum better informed than me about that. But even the dizzy will presumably have electronic components that can fail. Might be a lot cheaper than a coilpack.
  14. Knightrider
    Plug Lead removal tool - mine was on the bonnet stay. It's useless. I disconnected the lead from the coilpack end and pulled gently but firmly directly up the angle of the plug and off they came. Long screw driver to poke them back on and make sure that they are seated properly.
  15. Knightrider
  16. Knightrider
    Fixed! Had to be on the high tension side. Changed the ignition leads, no difference, changed all the plugs, no difference. Changed the coilpack for a proper VW OE part - SORTED, back sweet as a nut. It was the coilpack. Expensive though! Leads £78.30, plugs £36.00, coilpack £142.89, so £257.19 all up. I think the leads needed changing anyway as they were 7 years old.
  17. Knightrider
    My 1997 Highline is misfiring from 1500-2200 rpm and won't pull under power. It is somewhat intermitent, always there but degree of grief varies. Tickover is sometimes OK, sometimes misses and hiccups. It seems OK at higher revs but I think that is deceptive - I can't catch people like I used to. Found plug 4 was arcing (looked in the dark and saw sparking) Today changed all the leads with new standard VW items. No change, still misfiring. What do you guys reckon? Desperate to come to Owners meeting Saturday but can't drive it there from Sussex like this! Help.
  18. Knightrider
    I have a bad misfire, bought a coilpack from Trade Parts Specialists in Burgess Hill, Sussex, cost £142.89 inc. VAT. My car is a 1997 so ODB2 and the VW part number is 021905106 - it is described as 'IGNITION TRANSFORMER'. Not fitted yet, will tomorrow. Changed the plug leads today (and a couple where arcing - checked in the dark and could see it) but this has not unfortunately fixed the problem. Hoping the coilpack will sort it.
  19. Knightrider
    Craggsy, that's cool. I think that the H&R rear ARBs are available in 25mm and 28mm, is that rigjt? If you can buy them individually, that is great....except that if they are 25mm or 28mm you should not fit them without uprated fronts.?? I'm of the well informed opinion that putting on a 25mm rear (and definetiy a 28mm) without an upgraded front is madness.....too much rear stiffness, silly oversteer, major imbalance.
  20. Knightrider
    Hi Phat, they are ARBs produced in OZ. I've done a fair bit of research on this. Yes there is a 'sort of' rear ARB as standard, its inside the rear beam and you can see it looking back from the front with the car on a ramp. Doesn't do a lot and you just fit an extra one - it does not fit in the same place. In order to get the car to corner flatter the you need to increase the roll resistance at the back (rather than the front, although that will help, but not as much). The lack of 'flat' is quite obvious in slow corners or roundabouts, when the rear corner on the outside really sits down. Impr
  21. Knightrider
    I've been researching what to do to get my currently standard VR6 to improve the handling without too much loss of comfort. I'm not too constrained on the pennies, but I'm taking my time and getting as much advice, opinion and input as I can. And it is hugely varied and conflicting! (What I have deduced is that I don't want or need b*****y coilies....well not for exclusively road use which is what I'm doing. All sources I've come across suggest that the Mk4 is something of a dog and nothing like as easy to sort out as a 2 or a 3. Lots of moaning on the Mk4 Forum especially when they slam them.
  22. Knightrider
    I'm being told by a number of VW Golf tuning shops, and looking at threads on here, that to improve specifically VR6 handling adding a rear ARB really makes a BIG difference. Most say the standard front ARB is not the issue and does the job OK. VR6s have a 'sort of'' rear ARB inside the rear beam but I'm told this needs augmenting as it is pretty ineffective. Adding an additional 'proper' one at the back (you don't replace the 'sort of' original, you add a new one) apparently makes a BIG difference to the handling and reduces understeer significantly. Looks like quite a cheap mod, maybe with
  23. Knightrider
    As Phat says, almost certainly a front wheel bearing, or both but probably one. Had a Pug 205 with same symptom and cause. If straight ahead it is quiet (now you have it tracking properly), but starts to 'rumble' or whine when you apply lock....even if you apply little twitches, try doing that on a straight road just flicking gently applying turn left/right...if it comes and goes when you do that, then it's almost certainly a front wheel bearing. As he says, it should be road speed related and change tone a little dependant on road speed. Jack the car up each side and get hold of the wheels an
  24. Knightrider
    Don't know if this might help with the removal of the old rubber bushes - can't really tell from the picture. It is on the Superflex website http://www.superflex.co.uk/fitting2.php They tell you to take a blow torch to it!
  25. Knightrider
    Anyone got these fitted? If so, are they any good and does one really need them or is there (easy) camber adjustment built into the standard set-up? Seem like an inexpensive mod that you could have some fun with. Years ago I put negative camber arms on a classic Mini Cooper S (running on 10" wheels) and the turn in was ELECTRIC. It had a load of other 'improvements' over time but I really noticed the difference they made when I fitted them.
×
×
  • Create New...