Keep your mk2 slam panel keep you mk2 front cross member and use one of these http://wap.ebay.co.uk/Pages/ViewItem.aspx?aid=190512559574&emvAD=369x546&sv=mk2%20vr6%20solid&emvcc=0 The rad will fit your mk2 front cross member and yes the mk3 subframe and mounts wilk be fine
Use a mk2 gti 90 spec shell and swap the subframe for a mk3 vr6 one then use either a vibratnics mk2 vr6 front mount or one from ebay the seller is also is a member on mk2vr6 and the vr6 engine will droo straight in no welding needed as said above use a 90 spec car as the loom is pkug and play altough you will need to modify it i.e headlight connections etc
Again thanks for the reply fella been a big help i went out a second ago and tried the ht leads were fixed down properly believe it or not one wasnt lol i havent been able to take it out and see if its solved it but il will soon and report back
Daleyboy thanks for the info sorry i didnt really explain in detail basically the car pulls to around 4000rpm then bogs down harshly as if someone has stop airflow then the power comes back this all happens within a split second it will rev to redline but feels as if its being held back Jim thanks for the offer i may take you up on that im going to try a new rotor arm and dizzy,fuel filter and clean maf it it persists il be taking a drive to yours lol
Finally got the chance to take the vr out today car seems to run fine until i get to around 4000rpm then it splutters on and off ive given it a service only things i havent changed are the rotor arm and dizzy which now have been ordered. Also i dont know if the mfa is fooked but its only reading 13ish mpg town driving Any help would be great Aaron
Wouldnt bother with a 6 branch theres hardly any gains the standard manifold flows pretty well if i was you id port match your exaust manifold instead and while your at it port the inlet aswell and you will see better gains than a 6 branch
The grant motorsport head probly makes a difference but bigger valves are the key with the vr6 head porting on its own won't make massive gains I could be wrong though lol
Id imagine the 263 schimmel for our roads as it will be strong midrange and help a little up top but any of the other cams i.e 262 autotech or drc 268 are great cams the 268 will be midrange and top end cams
G60/abf final drive 263,262,268 cams Decat 2.5 system Lightend flywheel Lightend pullies Shrick manifold remap either stealth racing or united motorsport
My mk2 vr6 done a 6ish sec to 60 and 15 sec dead at pod this was running 185 45 tyres on a 8 and traction was a problem i could have easily got in high 14s with better tyres.engine had c2 map,2.5 exaust and decat,bmc.
As much as i love the vr6 never under estimate the g40 been in a couple and there pretty nippy and once tuned there quite quick its all to do with the power to weight
That mk1 trailer above is a mate of mines im sure he still has it for sale as i see it at his yesterday.so it hasnt sold yet does need to be finished tho
Just sold my ha bao hyper 7 loved that thing there real good fun but a pain when you hit a wall and need to repair them lol can be quite exoensive.but still great fun
http://www.urotuning.com/shop/ecs-lightweight-pulley-set-for-12v-vr6-p-1440.html Thinking of getting this set for my rado you only really need these two as tge alternator pulley is just for show.when i had my mk2 vr6 i bought a crank pulley and put them side by side(lightend pulley and standard pulley) and the weight of the.standard pulley was so much heavier.id imagine coupled with a lightend flywheel you will notice a nice improvment with the engine picking up quicker
Dont go for underdrive mate look at gruven parts set and the nuespeed set there a direct fit and you can use your existing belt.they give better throttle response and allow the engine to rev quicker work very well with a lightend flywheel.