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Antihero1981

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Everything posted by Antihero1981

  1. check out dr cams , they are not badly priced , 264 is what i am running with my charger
  2. should be fine without remap , like above , if you going to keep adding bits then its better to wait and get it mapped , i would add everything you need then map....better than mapping a few times after you add kit
  3. doughtry racing ones are pretty cheap ,
  4. will need to check what model ones i have , should be able to do this weekend.
  5. if you have paid to have it done then i would take it back , you start playing with it and they might not fix it ... you checked spark plug leads? they are easily broken /damaged
  6. well i would just use 10w40 , change the oil after you have run it in as it would have some swarf in it prob from running it in , so you want that out on a normal vr6 with average milage i would say once a year , if it gets used and abused then maybe sooner. i change mine every 6 months but i am running a super charger
  7. lol i was going to say stealth ....vince is pretty good and he has built a few vr6 engines with big power. Dont know anyone local in essex who knows the vr6 engine as well as vince
  8. use the hose but i would not doing it with engine running , i just dropped lower hose , flushed out , refitted and did it once again.pretty easy to do.
  9. will need to have a look , cant remember .i know they were not cheap , will get back to you on that
  10. ok , but unless you going to go stage 3 why the spacer? the psi you running wont be that extreme on the head. what charger you running? i would go standard headbolts , unless you got the cash for Apr ones. i think you would drop power by using a spacer gasket on stage 2 with the 8psi
  11. speak to the guys at opie oils , i was running 10w50 in summer and 10w40 in winter ,I use shell helix on mine but then i dont do to many miles in her. was using gulf but that worked out expensive changing every 6 months
  12. shell helix ? do you get it down by you? normally they say couple hundred miles keeping it slow
  13. you dont need them running stage 2 , i been running stage 2 on standard internals , only changed cams..the rest all from factory. why you going spacer gasket for stage 2?
  14. i got some for later models , new in box if you fancy them - 6 line ones
  15. are you planning to do anything else to the motor? i would not remap it until you put all your mods on , you can ride it without a map for the moment , And vince at stealth , top bloke and the best i reckon , cost i am not sure as he did a bit of work on mine so i just got final bill lol , was not to bad
  16. i would say yes , but you would need the mounting brackets , pulley , intake pipe , outfeed pipe ,etc . Not a bad price if you already got most the kit , but might be costly if your trying to source all the parts , better to look out for a full kit
  17. it went really cheap that car , for the power to money ratio someone got a good deal
  18. No vento Auto? that i would like to know
  19. dont think the stage would make any differance , have you measured them now? if so what are they? have you tried putting them in and running them?
  20. cool thanks guys , looking at about 100 for part and about 20 quid for fluid , doesnt look to hard to do just need the weather to do it
  21. Hi , well when i was changing my oil yesterday i noticed that the bearing on the power steering pump was a bit noisy , so looks like i have to change it which make is the best one to replace it with? and what fluid do you guys use? its the 1 thing i have not done , found a guide and it looks pretty easy to do just need to get the parts now thanks
  22. measure it up and check how many ribs it has , a good motor shop will be able to find a similar size one , the rest you should be able to adjust on the tension on the charger if its a few mm out
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