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finny

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Everything posted by finny

  1. finny
    Click on the green arrows in the write up. Other people I can think of are ecu-testing.com or BBA-reman. Never contacted these people. The guy I used, doesn't have anything to test the PCB so there is no guarantee. But he did a very good job. cheers
  2. finny
  3. finny
    Tim, click on one of the links in the write up for pics from others. You are right, that they are along the perimeter of the casing underneath.
  4. finny
    Agree up to 1" pedal travel sounds normal. When I bleed the brakes, last few pumps I have the engine running. Don't know whether this is normal or wrong thing to do it. When the engine fires up, the pedal becomes soft and after a few pumps it comes back again. Then close the bleed nipple and engine off. I use a one man bleeding tube/ valve kit. Cheap thing from ebay. Seems to work.
  5. finny
    No link between handbrake light and abs, its just I screwed up soldering so must have affected the PCB. Previously to that, the only time handbrake light on, was due to low brake fluid. My VAG-Com only indicated error with rear abs sensors but from reading up (after changing the sensor) for the abs light still coming on, must mean it was the ABS ecu. No expert, but I would think its the ABS ecu PCB joints needs to be redone. I would remove your existing ecu and send it off (by Special Delivery) for fixing.
  6. finny
    Before you buy a used ABS ecu, you need to check that it matches your existing one. There are number of versions out there so you need the right part nr. Also if your pump was say faulty, you will need the right pump so check part nrs match. The pump part nr will be on a sticky label (hopefully) and for the ecu will printed on the underside. The chap I used is Starsoldering.co.uk - links in my write up
  7. finny
    As Lukey said try purging the ABS pump but it is advise by Ross-Tech that all wheels should be off the ground, so before jacking up all corners of the car make sure your VAG-Com can do it (mine couldn't as its just the basic limited version). From experience thats the way I have done it, last few pumps with engine running/ shut off bleed nipple/ engine off. Don't know if its right or wrong or the norm. Probably changing your (worn front) brakes pads will help the feel but understand why its puzzling that just rewnewing rear hoses, pads and brake bleeding, the overall feel is spongy. I would ch
  8. finny
    It does say that replacing brake hoses, there is no need to bleed the ABS pump (from Ross Tech web site). I couldn't even bleed the pump as I didn't have the appropriate VAG-Com software when the pump was refixed after being completely removed. Hassle was that they did advise all four wheels not to touch the ground! so it was jacks, trolley jacks all round. Not sure if this is the standard way of bleeding the brakes, but for the final few pumps for bleeding the brakes, I fire up the car and immediately the brake pedal goes soft and a few pumps later comes back again. Can't remember how bad the
  9. finny
    The VAG-Com unit?, eBay for the third party cable and basic software (unlicensed) ones about £10 or genuine Ross-tech ones - registered/ licenced with support circa. £260. Its probably the ABS ecu as I had the same fault as you as well as replacing sensors. The problem is that the soldering type done back then becomes brittle and fail. Try the chap I used. No guarantee it will work as he dosen't have facilities to test the ecu but worth a punt? or go with companies that fixes these as a business.
  10. finny
    If its just removing the ABS ecu, then its not even a 10 min job, providing none of the 4 bolts are rounded off. Splitting the ecu apart is quite simple but unless you know what you are doing with the soldering part I would send it off to get done. The chap I used I guess could split the unit and reseal it again. If your local to me I could remove the ABS ecu for you or show you how to - no charge and hopefully with no stuck bolts. cheers,
  11. finny
    Thanks, done over 500 miles since and always a relief to see the ABS light go out when starting up the car.
  12. finny
    Yes, you can drive around with the ABS ecu removed. Cover up the pistons with large freezer bag and cable ties until it is refixed. But you'll have to assess the risk..........no functional ABS as the ecu has been intentionally removed rather than fitted as standard but faulty. I drove around for a couple of days without it fitted.
  13. finny
    Interesting, what are these cable clips for/ do? I just hooked up my existing handbrake cables to the Mk4 calipers with no issues.
  14. finny
    Make sure you clean the bolt recess for your 8mm hex drive (pref. 1/2 drive) and is fully seated when you remove the carrier. Can be a sod to undo. Might want to have new ABS rings? I didn't use any MK4 cable clips on my handbrake. Holds well and passed MOT etc
  15. finny
    All done, managed to loosen the nut without removing the suspension strut. Old car, tight nuts!
  16. finny
    The dreaded ABS light had been coming on and off more recently and decided to have a go at fixing it. I’m not very mechanically or electrically minded but always willing to have a go and learn from experience. Disclaimer: working on your own or someone else’s brakes and braking system are done entirely at your own risk and own competence. Apart from that I didn’t find it too difficult……………….. Tools: 4mm hex socket but E5 torx socket better ¼ drive wrench Precision screw drivers Flat head screw drivers Dremel if required Useful vice and another clamp Junior Hacksaw Stanley kn
  17. finny
    I was changing the front brake hoses to braided stainless steel and got one side done with no issues but the off side I managed to start rounding off the 11mm union. Going to take it to a garage to sort out as its just hassle now. They might have better tools to loosen the union. Not sure what's best. They probably will have to remove the suspension strut for better leverage etc but as the existing union is getting rounded: should they just renew the steel/ copper brake line end and I'll get a new union. This will save removing the suspension strut. How difficult will it be?. Will they have t
  18. finny
    When engine is running, the light should be off/ unlit. If its on, during engine running you have a fault and the ABS feature is deactivated. Could be one of the wheel sensors, ABS ECU, chaffed wiring etc.
  19. finny
    How easy was it to remove the abs ecu from underneath the pump & housing bracket? It seems very tight round there? Or did you complete remove the pump unit etc away from the bulkhead.
  20. finny
    Believe factory 15" alloys tyres are 86V. Looking to upgrade to 16" alloys and I am pricing up min 86 load index so looking at 87 load index (for 205/45/16). Lots of tyres rated at 83 but not so many reasonably priced for 87 load index. I would not have anything less 86.
  21. finny
    Replaced mine on Saturday. Passenger rear window. Got a new replacement regulator (ebay £22 inc del) and fitted my existing window motor to it. Took about 1hr to replace inc door panel removal. Was going to try the bullet fix but my problem was that the plastic blue connector had snapped off leaving one of the springs tensionors loose - should be compressed (so thats why the window would not go up). Once you have removal the door panel (inc speaker & tweeter connectors, window switch). The window is held by rubber trim with 2 plates held by nuts. You may have to lower/ force up in order
  22. finny
    Might have to replace this pipe soon as there is some residue on top of the oil cooler and had to fill up the coolant the other day. Read up on the gruvenpart website on how to replace the crack pipe. Any pointers on replacing the pipe? I will be replacing the whole thermostat flange etc. What did you guys do? ie did you remove the manifold for ease of access?
  23. finny
    I have put Mk4 calipers on my VR and here is what I know/ did.... You use standard size discs and the original Mk3 caliper carriers. My 2nd hand Mk4 calipers came with its carriers. You might be able to use these Mk4 rear carriers if your were prepared to angled grind to fit and also cut the metal dust shield to fit. Much easier just use the Mk3 carriers. The brake hose fitting on the Mk4 caliper is a banjo type fitting (So caliper, copper washer, hose, copper washer and then the screw valve fitting on top). The Mk3 brake hose that goes into a Mk3 caliper is just a screw in type fitting. (dun
  24. finny
    You can hire these arch rolling/ puller devices from eBay for about £55 over a weekend. They say heat the paint to avoid cracking. I would have a go doing this myself, if I needed the arches rolling.
  25. finny
    The nut will not be overly tight and quite easy to remove (and required for for reuse). Don't know the size but a large adjustable wrench will do it.
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