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finny

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Everything posted by finny

  1. finny
    Removed both front struts today and corrected how the spring plate should sit and its all dandy. Started to replace the wishbones and I got two problems. a) One of the existing ball joint bolts just goes round and round. Can't get a good enough grip. So started to dremel it off. Still on going. Can't get the front bolt of the wishobone off, even with my impact wrench. i) Have soaked it in WD40 and other releasing lubes. ii) If I apply heat to the head of the bolt only, what are the dangers of heat transfer and melting the front rubber bush internally? iii) any other ideas?
  2. finny
    Went to some tyre outlet for tracking/ camber adjustment. Once on the ramps, they spotted knacked rear wishbone bushes and they said no point them doing anything until these are replaced. Also said the driver's side tie rod end was seized. I might have discovered why the top mount is not secure. The spring metal plate 1'd fitted may be upside down. This was how I found it from removing the existing dampers of the car, so naturally assumed this is how it fits. I found the 'cone' part of the spring plate at the bottom of the spring. This should be at the top, so the bearing sits on top of the co
  3. finny
    Having no real mechanical experience, I changed the front suspension yesterday (first time ever), using the knowledge vault guide Couple of things: impact wrench (£20) was a must for me, no way would I have got the bolts free otherwise. Not sure what I was doing wrong but the securing nut that fits on the strut above the rubber top mounts went through the thin top mount 'rim'. This meant the top mount flew off (a few times) from either me tightening the first securing nut down or when releasing the spring clamps and the spring pressure woud pop off the rubber topmount. I reassembled how I fou
  4. finny
    I think it was a simple fit with plug at one end and screwing the new probe in. Can remember connecting/ joining a few wires together (to original cable); not sure if you cut the existing cable and use orginal plug. Parts may have changed by now as mine was done over 10 yrs ago (part brought from G&S)
  5. finny
    Your symptons sounds like mine when I had a Mk2 2.9. You naturally put your foot down for more gas as your going nowhere (engine power not responding) and then.......... whoosh, all of a sudden, the engine kicks into life but then you've got too much gas and accelerating where you don't want to be = brown pants time. My problem was cured by replacing the lambda probe that goes into the cat. Have you tried replcaing the lambda probe?
  6. finny
    Hi, I had one of the 1st 4motions back in 2000 and I had it AmD'd with Miltek made about 220bhp & 225 lb ft torque. Added sports cats later with another remap, better figures but didn't feel so quick compared remap without sports cats. Can't comment on new people of AmD or any other tuner as never used them for remapping. Best mod I found for 4mo was Bilstein suspension PSS9 and better brakes, had some porkers on mine. If I was to do it over over again, getting more power from the 4mo would be after a suspension and brake upgrade.
  7. finny

    Clutch Disapears

    finny replied to petay's topic in Transmission

    I had this problem with in my Mk2 2.9 Vr, replaced the clucth slave cylinder and this did the trick
  8. finny
    Had one in my Mk2 2.9 vr probably fitted around 1998 and IIRC it was about £1,500 fitted back then. Think 1st to 2nd gears were replaced with 3 new gears closer ratio and the standard 3rd, 4th & 5th became now 4th, 5th & 6th. The first 3 new gears made a whining noise (like a touring car) as the teeth on the gears being a 'straighter' cut and stronger. The car obviously felt quicker esp in the new 3rd, like having an extra 50bhp. But once your doing relaxed cruising speed using 5th gear in standard box car, you would just do it in 6th. Fun is only in the first 3 gears. Things have pro
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