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rigs

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Everything posted by rigs

  1. Does it run ok as long as you are using the pedal to hold idle? Rev freely etc....? I assume given you've got an idle control fault that you've checked the idle control valve? (assuming it's OBD1)
  2. Be clearful taking it off and you can get away with reusing it
  3. Did the noise start when the tyres were fitted? Were the tyres properly balanced when fitted?
  4. 1. there is no coolant running through the pipes to the throttle body pipes. - If they are the ones I think you mean they are vacuum lines not coolant! 2. the return from the heater matrix is cool. - Is the heater matrix free flowing? Does hot air come out of the heaters? If the blowers blow hot air that heat is coming from the coolant so the return pipe will be cooler (though still pretty warm) 3. when revved up with the expansion tank lid off you let off and lots of large bubbles come through the water (i smelt it and i doesnt really smell like exhaust gas but when tested with the the blo
  5. Speedo and rev counter are two entirely seperate sensors so it's unlikely to be a sensor fault if both are playing up at the same time. I *think* I'm right in saying that there are a couple of connections in the wiring that prevent the dials in the clocks from moving if disconnected - the connection to the top of the brake pedal rings a bell but I'm sure someone on here will confirm. One of those connections loose or faulty might cause your intermittant problem... assuming it's not power related anyway (if the lighting of the clocks stays and its just the dials that cut out then power should b
  6. If you roll in gear for 30 seconds (e.g. down a hill or engine braking from relatively high speed) and boot it does it blow a good old puff smoke out of the back and then clear?
  7. rigs

    flywheel

    Personally I love the lightened flywheel in mine... Huge difference... Transforms an engine that feels a bit lazy in to one with a more sporty/edgy feel.
  8. Usual car forum stuff aint it... Someone with a big gob and a small brain buys software, it doesn't work because of some issue with their particular car, they bad mouth it on every forum under the sun and shell out thousands for replacement kit rather than just asking supplier about the issue. Loads of others read the mis-guided rant and then regurgitate elsewhere. Genuine users are soon out-numbered by herds of sheep playing chinese whispers. (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) (bah) Anyways: C2 UK turbo software
  9. Quite a few VRs are very tappy - it could be in dire need of an oil change if it was driven whilst overheating or as you say burning loads... Puff of smoke when ragging it is normal VR behaviour
  10. More recently we've used 5w-40 Silkolene Pro S with no issue - brilliant oil.
  11. It works out like a percentage. 20% conservative ball park. 20% of 200 is 40.... 20% of 300 is 60....
  12. "How deep is a hole?" Need more info...
  13. The genuine ross-tech ones work flawlessly. The cheap ebay cables do work... but my god they can be a pain in the arse if you're unlucky.
  14. A common leak is where the filter housing meets the block which could cause oil to run down to the sensor heads. Clean everything off then run the car and find where the leak is. If you're loosing that much oil it should be obvious! Might just need a new gasket or sensor.
  15. Could well be a dodgy pump relay or poor contact in the fusebox
  16. Do you mean the sounds happens when you let off the power and roll in gear or when you put your foot on the clutch to change gear and the engine speed slows?
  17. Get someone to vagcom it also - it sounds like the sort of issue vagcom will give you good info to find.
  18. Fan fuse I'd imagine...? If the radiator isn't getting hot then the fan won't make much difference. When you filled the coolant back up did you bleed the system correctly and allow the car to warm up with the cap off etc...? A little bit of water from the exhaust is normal. Lots of steam from the back when everything is warmed up properly isn't.
  19. Not sure... another option would be modify the vr to be obd2. New inlet manifold, throttle body etc.. Might be easier.
  20. Blocked up exhaust would cause the symptoms you describe... i.e. perfect idle, unwillingness to rev and lack of power but otherwise smooth running.
  21. rigs

    Gear change slop

    If you want a proper precise gear change I believe you can put a mk4 shifter in - atleast we did on my mk2 Need the shifter and cables, cable mounting bracket and I think the selector in the box too
  22. As said there is a setting for number of cylinders in the AVCR config that'll sort that side of things out. There are also settings for the type and direction of the throttle position wire. Read the manual, I found it perfectly useable.
  23. If you can see steam then you can follow where it's coming from. If you are a complete novice at DIY then you're going to end up paying someone to fix it anyway so why not just take it to a garage?
  24. If you've got a laptop: £10 vagcom lead from ebay, download the free version of vagcom from rosstech's website. Sorted.
  25. Urm, I think it's as simple as a variable resistor with a float attached to it Nothing clever
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