rigs
-
Content Count
165 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by rigs
-
Nowt you can't do with your right foot... I'd not bother personally. A basic rev limiter is not particularly useful unless you've got a turbo to spin up. If faster times is what you're after there are loads of more significant changes you can make. The one that makes the largest difference is tyres. A set of sticky track cut slicks will get you anything up to a second and full on drag slicks will get you more. Then you've got shedding weight and increasing the power before aids such as a launch limiter become worth it. Up to you though obv. With a SC you have instant throttle response so a lau
-
It has to match the gauge. It might work... but I doubt it. Personally, I'd leave it as you're not going to be looking at the gauge all the time and having the buzzer go BEEEEEPP is handy if it's telling you your engine is eating itself. If it's a volvo gauge you'll need a volvo sender for it to be sure. Get a T-peice that screws in place of one of the vw senders on the housing and takes both the vw sender and the volvo sender. That way you have both a gauge and the VW oil warning systems.
-
It's screwed in to the house filter housing next to the pressure senders IIRC the temperature one is the small one nearest the block.
-
6 Branch manifold fitting time and charges
rigs replied to amazak's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Could vary hugely. If everything comes apart with easy then it could be done in an hour. More likely than not you'll have corroded studs that break/get pulled out/wont tighten etc... bits wont line up, exhaust hangers come apart in your hands.... I'd earmark a whole day for it. -
Unless you want to pay £200 for the full thing there is only the shareware version... which is version 409 or something.
-
What port do you have in the car? Some OBD1 VR's have the newer style connection (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/38/OBD-connector-pinout.png) in which case any OBD2 (non-cambus) lead will work.
-
If it's a VW gauge then VW will sell the sender. If it's a 3rd party gauge then you'll need to get the correct sender for the gauge. Oil pressure depends on loads of stuff but roughly speaking it'll high when the oil is cold. When at full temperature as a rough guide it'll be ~1 bar at idle and 3 bar+ as high engine speed. IIRC there is a 6 bar pressure limiter built in to the pump - someone who knows what they are on about might be able to confirm that.
-
New schimmel cams have made my car slower. Help!
rigs replied to Cuske's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Take it back. -
Apexi avcrs are brilliant and have a nice function to take out the boost spike... which is good if you want your gearbox to last AVCR also has gear and rev based boost control which is handy for getting power down in a fwd car.
-
-
Got a 19row cooler and an intercooler inbetween the standard grill and rad on mine... bags of room.
-
And given the comments about sticking to 400hp... there's not a lot of point overboring your cylinders. A 2.8 can make the same power as a 3.1 if you turn the boost up by 1psi.
-
If you've not done it before but want to give it a go then I'd suggest buying a haynes manual... If you've not got a decent set of tools then you'll likely spend quite a lot on them too. Find out where your local bolt shop is as you'll no doubt need to replace lots of them.
-
It's all on page 3 & 4 of the wiring diagrams pdf that you should be able to find... not going to post it as I'm unsure of legality of it! You've proved it's not the sensors fault by unplugging it. Now you need to prove it's not a wiring short with your multimeter. If it isn't then it's the unit itself.
-
The only way of fault finding it (short of swapping it with another known good unit) is to get a multimeter on the sensor connections using the wiring diagrams (available on 'net) as reference. You've tried a few obvious things and have a good idea what to investigate so hop to it. Sadly, as far as I'm aware, there aren't any vr6oc members who are both psychic and proficient in telekinesis so it looks like you're going to have to do it the hard way!
-
Sounds like it's time to dig out the wiring diagrams and poke around to me...
-
There is no noticable vibration with even solid engine mounts (which I have) - it's a 6 pot remember so it's fairly smooth running unless you fiddle with it.
-
Not the easiest of wiring to follow so test this before cutting anything: The flashing power output to the bulbs themselves appear to be in the 7 pin plug at the steering column: Pin 3 black/white and pin 7 black/green... It looks like you'll have to tap in to them to make them flash. The switch itself completes the circuit so you can't just make the flasher relay activate.
-
Inlet off, rocker cover off, chain off, cams out - lift tappets out. Put new ones in. Put back together!
-
Damnit, not another VR6 turbo rallye! They're getting common as muck! ;O) Remember if you want to retain the 4 wheel drive you've got some serious transmission changes to make. VR6 Syncro gear (rare as feck in the UK) won't take 500hp if you've got a heavy right foot so you're on about a full haldex conversion and a crazy hybrid gearbox if you're using a 12v.
-
The C2 UK N/A maps for the vr6 are making very good power gains. IIRC they have had nearly 195 out of a stock OBD1 car and GVKs 268 cam'd OBD2 made 215+. Give C2UK a shout if you want to spend a bit for an easy power gain. Throwing cam's etc... in gets your more power but at the cost of having to have your car custom mapped.
-
It's worse the closer to or further beyond the specs of the turbo you are running too... Your classic "jap tuner" maxes out the turbo to get a nice high power figure for impressing people at the pub - turbo's are cheap and horsepower is cool... or something. On the subject of the noise of recirc valves... mine's a normal forge recirc jobby that everyone sticks on their 20vts and it's noisey as hell!
-
The fans should only run when the car is about to overheat( or if you have the aircon on - someone confirm) You wont get heat in the car if the car isn't warming up. If the rad fans are on permanently you'd still need the thermostat to be stuck wide open for the car to not heat up at all. The radiator fan sensor is screwed directly in to the radiator and is a fairly large jobbie with a 3 or 4 pin plug.
-
It may just be me but I'm struggling to see the engine tuning relevance of this thread...
-
On modern engines like that had though you can loose 50hp just through a sensor misreading... The renault v6s are notorious for the coolant temperate sensor going and the power losses are significant... all for the sake of changing a £10 sensor.