rigs
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Everything posted by rigs
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The heat will make a small difference... but they got pretty warm on top anyway. Difference = yes. Significant enough to worry about = no
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It's in the tank attached to the lift pump. In the boot under the carpet theres a circular panel you can remove and the top of the tank is exposed underneath. Theres a large ring seal you have to turn then the lift pump pulls out of the top of the tank with the level sensor attached. Might aswell change the lift pump whilst you're at it.
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No
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Same happens with ours. The thermostats seem to let some oil through even when the oils cold and with a large cooler like you have it'll soon over cool in colder weather. I assume you've bought the cooler for track days or something as I've never heard of a vr6 cooking oil on the road. Make a shield out of something weather proof and cover the cooler up while you're on the road. Take it off for hard driving. 60 degrees isn't warm enough to protect your engine so do it sooner rather than later The overcooling will be 10x worse in the rain.
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Your statement is as broad and sweeping and incorrect as mine
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They are presumably centrifugal changers. They make more boost at higher speeds. At 4000rpm your charger will be blowing more than twice the air in to the inlet than at 2000rpm. Your "normal" displacement chargers create the same boost at any engine speed.
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Depends on the type of charger The vortech etc... ones boost more later in the rev range a bit like a turbo. Others give you whatever your boost threshhold is no matter what speed the engine is at. There are benefits to both
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The AVC-R is excellent.... Don't pay £290+vat for one though! I got one from ebay brand new for £220 inc delivery. Plenty of sellers on there. The avc-r has per-gear boost settings too
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Get a wideband AFR - you should really have one already. Narrow sensors are far too slow to get a proper reading. 14-15 is normal under part throttle normal driving. 12-13 should be about normal for boost.
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what engine oil do you use?
rigs replied to badboygolfvr6's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Previous used Silkolene Pro S fully synth 5w-40 in the track day vr... top stuff. Going to 10w-50 now though as she was getting a bit hot The 'fully synth oils are thinner than semis' thing is a myth. God knows where it came from. A 40 grade oil at 80 degrees is by definition the same as any other 40 grade oil viscosity wise. -
Yup.
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Where was the steam coming from?
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Ideally get a sheet of reasonably hardly plastic, drill some holes in the corners and cable tie it Cardboard will get wet in the rain and disintegrate eventually - which sounds like unnessessary faff to me
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We ran a 19 row cooler on a ~200bhp vr6 mk2 track car and it was just about adequate for prolonged ragging in warm/hot (by English standards) weather. Go with as large as you can fit in a place with decent airflow Covering it for road use is a must - the thermostatic pickup plates dont seem to completely shut off the feed to the cooler - with ours not covered the oil temperature would drop below 50 degrees if it started raining etc...
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It varies massively but decent semi-synth oils will be ok up to 110 and fully synthetics are ok up to 125. The main thing you'll do running high oil temperatures for prolonged raggings is kill the oil quicker. If you use good oil and change the oil regularly then theres little harm in seeing temperatures of 100-110 degrees for short periods. Min temps wise, it again depends massively but you should be seeing 60+ before giving it stick and its probably wise waiting till you're in the optimum 80-90 degrees band before giving it proper death
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What happens when mass air flow senser goes?
rigs replied to james4287's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
If the MAF is completely dead the engine will stall a lot, be a pain to start and have no power for the short periods where it runs. -
It's not hard. I'd suggest DIY personally
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Use a late headgasket from a Sharan vr6 - it should be a three peice metal headgasket rivited together. Carefully cut out the rivets, discard the middle peice and replace with your head gasket spacer plate. No sealant required.
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VR6 no power, stalling, please help
rigs replied to Smuggler's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
We had similar symptoms when the throttle position sensor went. Runs like crap and seems to misfire etc...? If it's the TPS then if you put your foot flat on the throttle it'll clear as it at full throttle I believe it ignores the TPS anyway Try unplugging the TPS - this makes it default to 100% throttle on the sensor and makes the car run reasonably normally. We ran without a throttle position sensor for some time and the car was fine Worth a try. -
You're still spending a lot of money for a relatively small increase in power. Spend a bit more, get a LOT more.
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What are they connected to? Do they have their own senders or are they wired in to the stock sensors? Volts gauges are easy to wire in. Oil pressure & temp etc... aren't quite so. Are you sure they are actually properly in?
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People should post where the figures are from also... Stealth for instance has a bit of a reputation for being wildly optimistic! 2.8 12v OBD1 in Mk2 Golf 3.9 Final Drive 2.9 throttle body + K&N Schrick 268 cams Done at Surrey RR: 207bhp @ 6100rpm 205 ftlb @ 4300rpm
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Went down to the workshop yesterday and had an unusually productive day - all boost pipes are now done - just missing some vacuum lines for boost control. First trip up the trail - very tentative 1/3rd throttle - first time on boost for the engine + boost pipes. Scarey moment http://files.3rd-dimension.com/Car%20Stuff/My%20Cars/RallyeVRT/Boost1.avi Fixed a few air leaks and tightened the battery terminals up (one was loose causing a misfire! oops) and went for a few funs up and down. In-car this time - 50% throttle 1st/2nd gear 5mph > 40mph ish. http://files.3rd-dimension.com/Car%20Stuff/M
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Has the car been off the road for a while? How heavy sounding is the tapping noise? Is it a tapping or a knocking? If it hasn't been driven for a while and its a noisy but 'light' sounding tap then it might just be an empty tappet - it should stop once the oil warms.
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We have successfully used a T-peice on the top of the filter housing to attach both temp and pressure senders... So I'd go with that.