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Philly-R6

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Everything posted by Philly-R6

  1. You could try EuroCarParts http://www.eurocarparts.com/leeds.html? They are open 8am-4pm tomorrow. Two Padgid rear flexi pipes are £18.84 (with code weeked35). Pagid Brake Hose (Rear Outer Left or Right) Product Code: 135440068 ...or do you mean the solid lines?
  2. I really don't know! Is the error in the Transmission Controller, or the Engine Controller? This post on Ross Tech http://forums.ross-tech.com/printthread.php?t=4227&pp=10&page=1 poses a similar problem. One site (http://www.airbagnews.com/PDF/Fehlercodes VAG english.pdf) states: 00518 P0121 Throttle Position Sensor - Signal Out of Range (G69) Also check for loose ECM power relay So, make sure relay 109 is correctly seated in the fuse box. Other than that, unplug and plug the connections: # the throttle position sensor, itself # the round e
  3. Any of the later stuff (around 2005-ish?) would be the "best", as long as you get the complete car - everything is coded together: ECU/dash/keys/transmission. Some cars have the dual clutch transmission, others manual. You have the options of Mk4 & Mk5 Golf (and derivatives) also Audi models, such as the TT... Anything post-1996 is OBD2 compliant. You are best searching on here - there are plenty of members who have updated their cars, and written about them. Don't underestimate the work required - good luck!
  4. Hi Aleks, You mention there is an error after a while - do you mean an error code logged in the ECU? If so can you list that error code and any information with it?
  5. The housing looks dirty, more than anything else. If you are up for it, you could try removing the wiring terminals, cleaning everything and re-insert them. If the terminals are corroded (going green) clean them with those abrasive pads - or even sand paper... I use a tool by Laser which fits most of the terminals on the Corrado/Golf3: http://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/3932/ Just take a few photos before you start, so the terminals go back where they came from.
  6. I don't actually know if the Golf VR6 parts would fit correctly. Looking at the part numbers, the rear beam may fit (depending on the donor car): Corrado: 1h0 500 051q Golf: 1h0 500 051q The assembly carrier may not fit correctly (I don't know the difference): Corrado: 535 199 315e Golf: 1h0 199 315aa Good luck with your project!
  7. < insert generic 'copyright' blurb here > I could only find a document containing scans on scribd, so the PDF is not searchable or easily navigable. Search t'internet for "Bentley MKIII Manual". This post on VWVortex was very useful, too.
  8. Mk3 Bentley - Tightening torques (40 Front Suspension and Drive Axles) Subframe Bolt (front) M12x1.5x65 - 70Nm plus 1/4 turn Bolt (middle) M12x1.5x78 - 70Nm plus 1/4 turn Bolt (rear) 65Nm Wishbones Bolt (front) M12x1.5x82 - 50Nm plus 1/4 turn Ball Joint # to wheel bearing housing base suspension 50Nm plus suspension 45Nm # to control arm - 35Nm I can't find the details for the front subframe.
  9. I will commit to the Tatton Park event. I need a non-movable target to keep me focused!
  10. Hi James, Sorry to see your VR6 in such a sorry state. Perhaps you could post your list (including your photos?) in the Wanted forum. Have a look at what other members are asking for. Then, create your own thread asking if other members have the parts surplus to requirements... Good luck sourcing your parts!
  11. Philly-R6

    Corrado

    Hello RaddoRene, I urge you to peruse the Engine Tuning forum - there are plenty of 'stickied' threads for you to feast your eyes on. Don't underestimate the size of the job - or the cost! For some inspiration/motivation, BradVR6 turbocharged his C' a few years back: https://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forums/topic/36392-brads-corrado-vr-next-on-the-listturbo-conversion-d/?do=findComment&comment=384316/
  12. Look on t'internet for a document named g3vr6ecu95on.pdf - it should be a 10-page PDF describing the late Mk3 Golf VR6 engine wiring. Page 6 has the throttle body connections to the ECU.
  13. What are the symptoms you are experiencing? What lead you to change the cam Position Sensor? Do you have an error code from VagCom?
  14. My 1995 ABV Corrado (with the 021 906 258 CP ECU) has the Cam sensor: 021 907 601A. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1995/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/906/subcategory/204000/part_id/0/lang/e#sec_16 The same item is listed on for the 1997 Golf. http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GO/year/1997/drive_standart/184/hg_ug/906/subcategory/906010/part_id/0/lang/e#sec_20
  15. I've not actually done a swap to OBD2, so can't really comment if it is beneficial. Summarising other peoples reports, the headline points are: # the faster ECU provides finer tuning # superior idle (no separate idle valve) You don't get more power or torque - its just smoother. I only mentioned the 95on ECU setup as it is the same amount of work updating the harnesses, whichever ECU you decide to go for. All VW ECU's are listed here: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Catalogues/VW-Audi_ECU_ModelsPartNumbers.pdf Your original 'AF ECU preceded th
  16. If you are expecting to plug the 'BK ECU into your car, it probably won't run. The subtleties are in the sensors and subsequent wiring harnesses, which change over time as the systems are developed. One change for example is the air mass sensor, earlier models had a 6-pin connection, later ones have a 4-pin connection. Other sensors have changed, too. One other difference is the factory immobiliser which later cars definitely have. I'm not sure how interchangeable they are (they are paired with the ECU). If you are up for some work, you can get the whole setup
  17. It sounds like the sensor is ok - it could be wiring? Some general info here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16502/P0118/000280
  18. The windows in the Mk4's are driven by cable - rather than a scissor mechanism. Have a rummage around the door and see if there is anything obviously broken? Take a look here and see if it can guide you? http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk4/body/general_body_repairs_exterior/glazing/window_mechanism/door_window/assembly_overview_front_door_window/
  19. If you are near South Manchester, call Barry at MS & J Motors in Styal - 0161 436 1967. He rebuilt a gearbox for my brother's Delta a few years ago.
  20. The fault codes are closely related, so one fix could clear the lot! The Ross Tech wiki has some causes/solutions which you could investigate further: P1128 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17536/P1128/004392 P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16684/P0300/000768 P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire
  21. It could be a faulty coolant temperature sensor? There is a good explanation of the VR6 cooling system on the Corrado Forum ( http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38925-The-definitive-VR6-cooling-guide ) well worth a read to get an understanding of how it operates. There is a sensor on the thermostat housing driving the temperature gauge in the dash. The other sensors on the thermostat housing, along with the sensor on the radiator inform the Fan Controller to operate the multi stage cooling fans. You can do some tests on the sensors, as documented on the Ben
  22. Hi Dillon, How are you unlocking the car? 1. Are you are turning the key in the door lock? If the key is held in the unlock (or lock) position, the windows will open (or close) by design. You will have to hold the key in position for half a second or so before the windows move. -or- 2. Are you using a remote keyfob? Aftermarket alarms piggy back onto the above feature (usually to close the windows when arming). Some alarm allow you to lower the windows by holding down the unlock button on the keyfob. Do the windows open a small gap, or open all
  23. Did you confirm if the spark plugs were sparking, when cranked on the key? I cannot see the ECU blowing, unless something extreme happened to it. Engine sensors are pretty robust, too. So you have power on the engine sensors. Is the engine and distributer timing definitely correct? Are the HT leads correctly installed? Can you smell fuel on the plugs? Does this thread help you any?? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?39951-VR6-Distributor-timing-rotor-alignment
  24. Can you confirm you cranked the engine (on the key) with the spark plug base against the engine - and no spark was observed. The distributor has a 3-pin connector: pin 1 - 0v pin 2 - timing signal from the ECU pin 3 - 12v The hall sender is also a 3-pin connector: pin 1 - 0v pin 2 - signal to ECU pin 3 - 12v Check the power is present across pins 1 and 3. The distributor is powered by the ignition (terminal 15) and the hall sender is powered through Relay 3 - the ECU power supply relay - sharing power with the injectors.
  25. I believe only the shipped ECU (matching part number) will work with the car. If you change the ECU for a later one, some wiring and sensor changes will be required to match. And if it has the fuel immobiliser (unsure if your ECU does) this will need pairing with the new ECU, also. VagLinks has a PDF listing ECU numbers: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Catalogues/VW-Audi_ECU_ModelsPartNumbers.pdf There used to be a page on the Canadian Corrado Club site, but its gone?! http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/vwecucodes.htm
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