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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. matth76
    Hi, I may be having my timing chains done at some point soon (unless the hydraulic tensioner fixes the problem) which requires the gearbox out. I'm getting a new standard clutch (which I've been told can withstand very good power - well over 300bhp.. is this true?)... but what about an uprated gear box... any recommendations and prices? I understand if I go the supercharger route - which I will be hopefully early next year (after the xmas spend!) - the standard gearbox is the weak spot - the vr engine should be fine so I've been told... up to about 300bhp, before forged items and thicker head
  2. matth76
    What's been done to the car..tuning wise?
  3. matth76
    I didn't realise C2 superchargers actually use a Vortech 1. I always thought it was a V2. Can't wait to hear what your car feels like in the low rev range (as that is always the weak spot in standard VRs). Will the C2 be putting out 280bhp and what torque will it generating? Are you keeping the standard gearbox? Does anyone know if there are any uprated reliable (not too expensive though) gearboxes that can take power well over 300bhp? How much would they be? How would this cost compare to a standard gearbox?
  4. matth76
    Hi mate.. I did exactly the same thing a while back. There was about 4mm level of oil at the very bottom of the dipstick. I was so worried. However I was told by Stealth ...a good tuning company that it would be fine as there was about 3 more litres of oil actually left in the engine. It's not recommended to let it drop below the min mark on the dip stick but even if it does it won't wreck the engine as there is plenty of oil remaining circulating - unless it's always like this long term only then would I expect damage.
  5. matth76
    Thanks for the link and for all the info guys. Interesting info. I assume if my hydraulic tensioner is replaced with a new one and the noise disappears this will mean my car is ok and the chains will not need to be replaced? I know the tappet noise won't disappear (unless I get new followers..or a cam kit ). To be honest I can hardly hear the noise that the mechanic mentioned. Today I had a good listen and I could only really hear something when I started the car...for a split second... very very faint and if I revved the engine a small amount and then let it idle ..as the revs drop back
  6. matth76
    What kind of power / torque can the standard gear box take? I assume it's not the clutch that is the weak point but the actual box. Are there any other good but not overly expensive gear boxes out there that are up to the job and suited for the golf VR? What's the total cost for the part? I may be having my timing chains done at some point soon which requires the gearbox out. I'm getting a new standard clutch (which I've been told can withstand very good power - over 300bhp)... but what about an uprated box... any recommendations and prices? 1gav... you're getting the C2.. sounds good... is
  7. matth76
    Thanks for your replies guys. The Phirm are very good at what they do, and I have started to notice the rattle which is very faint - although it doesn't sound much different to the tappets...I really have to listen hard to notice it. However I suspect the mechanic had just noticed the rattle very early on before it develops into very audible 'typical' chain rattle. Is chain rattle often hard to distinguish amongst tappet noise? I can only assume I mis-heard the mechanic when he said 2 days for the hydraulic tensioner - he must have been referring to the time it would take to do all my timi
  8. matth76
  9. matth76
    Ok for the time being I will leave it in if it is not going to actually cause in damage for 3-4 months (3k miles). And come my next service in around 3k miles I'll get them to do a complete drain and 'flush' and use the correct G12+.
  10. matth76
    Thanks guys for your help. By the way when I was there he revved the engine full throttle (while the vehicle was stationary in neutral... and when the engine was cold) using the throttle cable in the engine bay. When he revved it really high for ten secs or so and then let it idle the whole engine lump rocked back and forth for quite a few seconds. It had me worried. I thought it was perhaps because he was doing this when the engine was cold... Is the rocking normal?? Not sure if this is coincidental or not but it was soon after this when he revved it high again that he heard a 'new' faint
  11. matth76
    Thanks for your replies. Will my gaskets etc be fine if I leave the blue (G12) coolant in till next weekend? How many litres would I need of G12+ to completely fill the system up to the maximum level if I drain the system and do a refill.. what cost am I looking at? I'm a bit p*ssed off that they have done this if the blue G12 coolant is such a damaging coolant. The company has been recommended by a few members on here and also PerformanceVW take all their cars there. Is the blue anti-freeze really very bad, or can it wait until my next service in a few months?
  12. matth76
    Anyone?
  13. matth76
    Blimey... I've really having a lot of luck this weekend. First I'm told my timing chains are apparently one their way out and now they've put in the wrong anti-freeze. I specifically asked them why they were not putting in the same colour/type and they said it was fine. How easy is it to empty and replace the antifreeze and where is the plug hole to empty it all? I could ask them to replace it but to be honest they are an hour's drive away. Is the blue anti-freeze really going to cause damage / corrosion to my cooling system?!!
  14. matth76
    Is the blue (earlier one) one bad for the engine?
  15. matth76
    Hi I had my water pump changed yesterday by a reputable garage and they replaced my pink G12 antifreeze with a blue colour antifreeze. I did ask if it was correct and they said yes. My question is G12 also blue as well as the pink colour? I have a load of pink G12 antifreeze left in my old bottle... can I mix this with the blue antifreeze that they put in? Thanks Matt
  16. matth76
    Thanks for the help guys. I listened to a sound clip of what timing chain rattle sounds like and mine certainly doesn't sound like that... however The Phirm are extremely good at what they do so they guy may just have caught my timing chain problem very early, as opposed to catching it late when there would be noticable rattle. He did say the noise was new and not there last week when he listened to it. They did say doing the hydraulic tensioner (I assume this involves tightening or replacing it??) may fix the problem and it may not be the timing chains after all. Can anyone confirm how much
  17. matth76
    Thanks guys for your replies. They said they will need it for two days to do the Hydraulic tensioner. If it's only a 30sec job seems a bit strange why they would say that. What do I have to do with a screwdriver?? My engine does sound tappety but was assured by Stealth when I visited them a couple of months ago this is usual and my car sounded normal they said. I have to say my car sounded the same as it always has done - if I really did listen I could hear a faint raspy sound - it was this noise that the guy said was the timing chain problem. I'm going to get a second opinion definitely.
  18. matth76
    They said it could all be done by just taking out the gearbox. If they do the "Hydraulic tensioner"... is this "part" of what would need doing when the timing chains are replaced? I don't really want to spend
  19. matth76
    Cheers guys for your replies. Mightyvr6, I remember you saying a while back you picked up your s/h Vortech 1 for
  20. matth76
    Hi My golf VR6 (which has now done 75k miles) has a slight raspy noise on full throttle which The Phirm says sounds like the timing chains are going to need replacing. They have quoted between
  21. matth76
    What kind of power would the golf vr have once a ZR1 is bolted straight on (without any extra mods - although I assume a 'basic' remap would be required), compared to a ZR2? And how would a ZR2 compare to a Vortech1? And what would be the maximum bhp that each of the chargers could cope with with further mods in the future? Can the bottom end of the standard 2.8 VR6 engine cope with high bhp / torque - or is a thicker head gasket recommended if power is taken over 250bhp?
  22. matth76
    Apparently "veering" slightly to the left is a common fault on golf mark 3's. Mine did the same when I first got it and I had the tracking and balancing done which fixed the problem - although it does still veer only very slightly... although it will do because of the camber of the road. Did you have balancing done as well? I do find mine veers a bit when I brake very hard which is a bit disconcerting but easy to prevent and control.
  23. matth76
    Cheers for your answers guys. I knew the Pipercross induction kit was made of foam... didn't realise their panel filters were too. Looks like I'll get a K&N as I've heard lots of good things about the quality of their products. Get my gf to get it for me for xmas !lol Or better still I could get it for her.
  24. matth76
    Thanks guys. So a ZR1 can be upgraded fairly simply to a ZR2 for around
  25. matth76
    Doesn't surprise me. Hope she gets some kind of double ins pay out from both drivers. There are some idiots out there on the roads. I was driving home this eve... it hasn't snowed down here in the south but it's zero degrees or just over and everyone is speeding down the dual carriageway at over 70... I only don't because I know what it's like to skid on ice and over turn a car &| (wasn't even driving over 40 when it happened over 2 years ago... really shakes you up for a long time afterwards.. but makes you appreciate the roads more.
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