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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. matth76
    Hi in the last couple of days my car has briefly made an odd screech noise (not too loud but audiable similar to a fan belt noise) for half a second always just after I turn the engine on. Then it disappears. Sometimes it doesn't happen. What is that - it only lasts for a fraction of a sec. Cheers Matt
  2. matth76
    IE5? Remember that! About time you upgraded to IE6' date=' then you won't have any probs! [/quote'] It's my GF's computer that has IE5! lol Mine at home is fine and has IE6. One thing I do notice on my gf's computer too is that each page freezes for about ten to twenty seconds just after it says 'done' in the status bar (when all items have been downloaded on the page). Has only done it since the new design was implemented. However her comp is running ME so it's getting a bit dated %-6 Works fine on my comp though which is the main thing !amazed The site is very good. Easy to
  3. matth76
    I'm from near Worthing and Brighton - sort of in the country up the A24.
  4. matth76
    What is a crank pulley exactly and how much work is involved fitting one? Does the gearbox have to come out to fit one?
  5. matth76
    I don't know about the lambda probe question. According to both Milltek and Stealth (who fitted mine) high flow cats should not affect other engine parts and should last as long as a standard cat. I would assume a cat bypass (decat) may have a bigger negative effect on the lamda due to it being more free flowing than a high flow cat. On the other hand a dodgy lambda can indirectly damage a cat due to over fuelling. Price for the cat bypass sounds ok.
  6. matth76
    I would choose the R32 - purely because it is (in my eyes) the most unique and exclusive out of the three, then the S3 (which would be slightly slower than the R32) but cheaper to buy, then the BMW (which I know is equally good build quality but not as exclusive as some owners would like to think). But all three cars are nice choices. The 330 is just a step down from the M3 - if she was set on the BM then I'd go for the top model. Only my personal opinions though
  7. matth76
    I have a high flow cat from Milltek plus their cat back exhaust system. My car now puts out about 192-195bhp on the rolling road with just those modifications. Yours should make similar figures. A cat bypass will invalidate your MOT but will make a little bit more power than the high flow cat, but not much. My high flow cat really makes the car much more responsive. How much is the Milltek cat bypass?
  8. matth76
    BMC CDA is the one I'm going for in the next couple of months. Protects it from heat soak in the engine bay. Cost to buy is normally
  9. matth76
    Hi If my car (golf VR6 odb2) has a full remap at Stealth using their Dastek unichip can it allow me (if desired) to have more torque at the expense of having less top end bhp power? Ideally I want to have good torque figures to aid acceleration; I'm not as bothered about bhp or top end speed. Is this possible? Can a remap allow the bhp figures to be manipulated (obviously by adjusting fuel / air etc) to generate higher torque figures by reducing bhp slightly? Thanks Matt
  10. matth76
    Thanks. How easy is it to replace the cam sender wheel? Is this a lengthy job? So Stealth do the bottom chain and tensioners too then? What approx cost would it be for Stealth to do just the bottom chain and its tensioners?
  11. matth76
    That's a pity. If I'd have seen that post I'd have liked to come down too. Where abouts was it?
  12. matth76
    Could slightly faulty cam timing cause the cam sensor to fail? I had a faulty cam sensor following the work - they cleaned it but it made no difference which was very odd. They replaced it and the fault went away but the flat spot still remains - not quite as bad but still still clearly there. I have to admit I was a bit surprised when they said they hadn't changed the bottom chain but you naturally assume they are the experts so didn't question it. However due to the flat spot which still remains I'm going to get them to check the timing as this is really bugging me. How long would it tak
  13. matth76
    If you are referring to the oil temp (seen via the trip computer) then 90 degrees C is the normal operating temp and will always sit at that. Nothing to worry about. If on the other hand you are referring to the water temp which is seen via the gauge near the revometer then the needle should normally sit vertically when it is at normal operating temp.
  14. matth76
    I was told the bottom tensioners and chain are very unlikely to need replacing. When chains are replaced at around the 100k miles mark it is normally only the upper/top chain and its tensioners that are done. Is this not true? I'm going to speak to Stealth about this.
  15. matth76
    Yeah my local Tesco supermarket garage is actually cheaper than BP super unleaded and Optimax.
  16. matth76
    Thanks for your replies guys. So is the slight flat spot I'm experiencing between 1500-2000revs most likely to be fuel/air mixture related and solved by a remap? If it was the cam timing that was out how could I tell or would it be quite a bit more significant than a 'slight' flat spot? Anyone else had a car where the timing was slightly out after having the chains done - what were the symptoms? Cheers Matt
  17. matth76
    Hi I noticed a while back Tesco were trialing 99 octane rated fuel in a few select garages. They now do it in virtually every superstore garage. Is it damaging to run the car on a high octane rated fuel or use octane booster? My car certainly feels smoother running on the Tesco 99 fuel. However I know the car won't obviously gain any power unless it has a remap when the car is full up on the 99 ron fuel, on a rolling road. Has anyone had their car remapped (if you have a remappable Dastek ECU or similar) to run on 99 ron fuel - what kind of power gains did you get running on it? Is a Dast
  18. matth76
    Contact Storm Developments... their prices seem good. They do a full rebuild for around
  19. matth76
    Thanks. Can a Dastek be remapped in the future if more mods are added at a later date? Is it a 'uni' or 'piggyback' chip that is soldered onto the standard ecu? Any idea on cost?
  20. matth76
    I've seen a few oil breathers on some VR6's (which are made of similar gauze material to the gauze on induction kits but obviously much much smaller). Are these a good modification? Are they supposed to keep the oil temps lower? I would have assumed the hot air in the engine bay would be a bad thing for these? Or are they just for show?
  21. matth76
    Will a light weight crank pulley improve torque (acceleration), or bhp (top end speed)? Is a light weight flywheel similar to this?
  22. matth76
    AMD are supposed to be good and are in the Oxford area. I haven't used them before but I've heard other members say good things about them. Alternatively get it towed an hour north to Stoke where Stealth are based. They are one of the best around for the VR6. They will diagnose and fix anything that is wrong for a good price. Well worth it in my opinion.
  23. matth76
    Thanks for your replies. I suspect it may need a remap too. Initially just after having all the work done there was a much bigger flat spot all the way up to 3000 revs. I took it back to the garage that had done the work and VAG COM determined there was a faulty cam sensor (intermittant fault). The sensor was totally replaced (for free of course) and the fault on VAG COM disappeared. Took the car for a spin with the mechanic and the car was much better. Virtually back to normal although there is still a flat spot remaining (as mentioned above) between 1500-2000 revs. I can feel it especi
  24. matth76
    I had exactly the same problem where the steering wheel and car vibrated going over 80 mph. Really had me worried. I had my wheels balanced and tracking done for
  25. matth76
    If you're going for big power i.e over 300bhp I would go for a metal head gasket with a slightly lowered compression ratio of 9:1 or even 8:5:1, just to keep things ultra reliable with the big power. I would go for one piece valves too in your head as these are apparently slightly more reliable. The standard bottom end internals can normally withstand big power if the compression is lowered. I would stick with OEM parts.
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