FishWick
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Everything posted by FishWick
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Yes please - with plug converters!
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Doesn't need to be in a box at all. This is what's in mine. Proper mount made for it etc, which due to the batt's light weight, just simply needs screwing to the floor.
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I've put a turbo on mine at 140K miles and it's fine. Just make sure the chains are OK as Tom says. If you need to do the chains, do the head aswell as they're starting to lose it by 80K usually, with appreciable valve stem slack. Personally speaking, forget the hearsay and rumours, just do it :-) The motor can take it - if you go about it methodically and don't cut any corners. Gear stripping usually occurs on the 1/4 strip once the tyres regain traction after a spin and 3rd is usually first to bite it....it's a huge load to shunt back into the box, which is compounded further by a quaif
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Yeah that's where mine is. Perfectly fine. Just remember to strap it down. You don't want that hitting you in the head! Run some 0 gauge under the carpet and terminate it in the engine bay to the stock wiring harness. The 0 gauge earth needs a substantial mounting point in the trunk, something like a rear seatbelt mount etc.....but not self tapped to thin sheet metal! Where you pass the wire through the bulkhead, I would use a compression gland rather than a grommet as they are much tougher. You can get them from B&Q. Fuse both ends of the cable (battery end and engine bay end) in cas
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I'd just like to point out that the little battery in my application was chosen because my chargecooler sits in the place where the normal battery and screenwash tank would live, and I didn't want 20Kg of battery sitting in the boot either. In terms of handling, it not so much total weight loss that counts, but altering the concentration of weight. I.e. taking 20Kg of battery weight off the nose will sharpen the turn-in and take a bit of load off the front suspension because it's normally forward of the axle line - where you don't want it. On the whole though, I'm with Tom, keep the luxuries
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Max torque was 256 ft/lb playing the 307hp. It's PeteC's car, not sure if he's on here, but he's on the Rado forum. Vortech V9s give 290hp with 260ft/lb with 8psi, so the Rotrex isn't giving much more, if anything, as a peak. But they do give more boost lower down and don't have parastic loads as high as the Vortech units. It's a neat little unit, definitely the best supercharger conversion I've seen for the VR6.
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Cheers for the kind words :-) I hope people do find it useful. There's nothing to be scared of (apart from a rapidly depleting bank account!), it's all pretty straight forward to be honest. A shopping list is a good idea, but it can vary depending on your goals and budgets. Some people might go standalone and therefore won't need a 4" MAF, RR FPR or various sections of pipe etc and some folk definitely won't go down the Shcimmel intercooler path as it's expensive, and others might want a bigger (or smaller) turbo so it's pretty tricky producing a definitive list I'm afraid. IBIVR is a founta
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I have the lightweight battery in mine. 6Kg compared with 20Kg for my old Optima Yellow top - http://www.spturbo.com/mainpages/parts/BrailleBattery.htm Being a dry cell, you can mount it anywhere and at any angle with no need for a vent tube. I wouldn't remove too much weight from the nose though because all though that is a hefty lump up front, it does help with traction.
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It's a BEGI 2025 FMU mate - http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_FPR_Instruction.html
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Not real close ups I'm afraid. I'm going to move the oil feed tonight I think - so that it comes over the cold side instead of hot. I'll take some pics then. The oil pressure restrictor goes on the turbo otherwise I doubt the reduced pressure would make it up that far if you put it at the filter end? Currently it drains low down in the sump' date=' about 2" above the drain plug. This is - as you say - to allow adequate driveshaft clearance. It's not ideal tbh, but no other way at this stage, but the 3.0 is draining back into the block above shaft level for a much less restrictive retur
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Cheers guys! At first I thought the GT3071 turbo was going to be a bit small, but in practice it feels just right. It feels like a 1.8T on a much bigger scale :-) It 'feels' quicker than my 8psi Supercharger setup because of the torque - it kicks in a lot sooner and there's more of it, but I suspect head to head, there wouldn't be a massive difference overall. Yep, very happy I went turbo and I'd definitely recommend it to anyone! AFRs - At WOT I've seen as rich as 8 but on part throttle boost it hovers around 11, which seems about right. I don't mind the extra fuel blasting in as it keeps
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Project complete. The latest updates:- The exhaust got finished off OK in the end, so that's all lagged and fitted. The turbo nappy is on too and both lambdas in and hooked up. Here's the view from under the car. It's in sections deliberately to allow the addition of a 3" cat a later date, which is the V banded one. The other one is the 3" - 2.5" - 2.25" reducer to mate up to the SuperSprint. That will all be replaced with 2.5" soon. I also got round to running the waterlines from the front rad to the boot. These next shots are only really applicable if you're planning on the Schimmel
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Beetle MAF insert - yes I have done a search
FishWick replied to GVK's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
I've not tried the insert but I read on the Vortex a while back that the Beetle and OBD2 VR6 inserts are exactly the same, which kind of opened a can of worms as to why VW are charging extortionate amounts of money for a plastic housing! Anyway, I just get mine from GSF exchange, £70 odd quid for the whole thing. Yours is probably the 462A. I would try it in the car park before driving off because GSF's quality control is shite. I've had 1 or 2 MAFs arrive DOA....so don't hand over the cash until you've confirmed it works. The engine won't even run if it's a DOA. -
Correct, MAFless was done to fix engines that wouldn't run at all, or wouldn't run very well. Not all engines liked it. I was lucky and had a good engine that didn't mind losing the MAF. All you lose in the real world is a slight loss of throttle response and that's it. Also bear in mind that the MAF and filter on S/C cars hang down in the inner wing and therefore are subject to water and dirt ingress, not to mention oil and water from the Crankcase ventilation system dripping onto the MAF wire/film - destroying it in a few months, sometimes weeks. That was another reason for dumping the MAF
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Antonio - Nope, you get sweet FA with turbos! For a GT turbo you will need a -4 oil feed line, a restrictor, oil filter housing adapter, T3 gasket, 4 x 20mm bolts and oil drain fittings and hose....all seperate items. Gary - Yeah, I did get a few didn't I? LOL! They're torque tension clamps, much better than worm drive and T bolt clamps....but they're expensive :-(
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Okey dokey, a few more updates.... The wastegate dump is figured out. I know what you're thinking and I agree, it's less than ideal, but it's the best I could do for the time being. That's now gone off to the welder and that's it for the exhaust. I'll lag it up this week and mate it up to the exhaust. The intercooler is in. It just hangs there to allow movement as the engine rocks. I've popped a bit of spare samco under it just in case. Plenty of fore and aft rocking space. Boost loss through that intercooler is 0.25 psi and with such a short path and the SRI aswell, it's going to have
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OK, thanks for that. I don't like the sound of the BOV consequences so I'll change over to recirc.
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I'm trying to avoid a Boeing 747 dashboard. I'm a big believer in OE +. Discretion and subtlety ;-) Besides which' date=' too many gauges can distract you and cause information overload. You can end up focusing more on those that relaxing and enjoying the car. Just the right amount of info is enough ;-) Indeed. Take your time and double check things and you'll be fine. Are you from the States? If so you have Bill Schimmel in Warminster at your disposal....he's the God of VR6 Turbos ;-) LOL, shouldn't be much longer now!
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LOL' date=' I still don't know who made it, sorry if I implied that, but these are the interesting markings I was referring too. I wonder why they get ground off? Some kind of copyright thing perhaps? [img']http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x2/kevhaywire/7.jpg
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MK3 bay is bigger mate. It's the car of choice for turboing as there's more room for intercoolers and such like. The Corrado is extremely cramped, everything has to be mm perfect. The good news is that both the Corrado and MK3 were designed for 4x4 from day one, so have huge transmission tunnels and both boot floors can be cut out and replaced with a syncrho one (and corresponding tank) quite easily. You need the boot floor as it has the right clearance and also the hanger for the rear diff etc. It's been done on quite a few Corrados now. A MK3 Syncrho would be a good car, but dump the sy
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The maker of the manifold remains a mystery, but I have an interesting picture of what is actually ground off to show you later ;-) Ciaran, I'm not sure how much it costs to go 4x4, but the parts are readily available. You need to modify a synchro rear axle to take the Haldex diff and if you use the 02M 6 cog box with it, it's good for 600hp out of the factory. If you need proof, hunt out some youtube clips of EIP's turbo R32 ;-) VRTime, Yes it is addictive :-) Another thing you can do with the LC-1 (especially with OBD2) is take one of the two analogue outputs and feed the ECU with it. So
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It looks similar doesn't it? IbiVR will know as I got the manifold from him....
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Just mirroring what Pete says, Schimmel are great to deal with. I have their short runner intake on mine. I've tried it with a 12psi Vortech and got 320hp and I've also tried it normally aspirated. Now it's going to be used with a turbo :-) In terms of normally aspirated, throttle response is instant thanks to the throttle being so close to the head and there was no appreciable drop in torque. It definitely pulled harder above 4000rpm too - compared with the stock manifold. One thing to bear in mind with short runners is you lose the VR6 warble because the short runners quieten down the ind
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This might interest you http://www.the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49868
