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FishWick

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Everything posted by FishWick

  1. Don't get me wrong, I love my Corrado, even though it is crippling me financially, LOL!! Picture your highest maintanence girlfriend ever, and multiply that miserable feeling of empty wallets and hormonal behaviour by 10, and you get the picture! Nah, seriously, they are good cars...... but unlike other VWs, they *do* require lots of TLC. Personally I'd start off with a nice Highline, get a feel for what the VR6 is all about and then upgrade (or downgrade, LOL!) to a Corrado VR6 as and when you choose. K
  2. Cost = Lots! It's roughly an 8-9 hour job. Gearbox off, manifolds off, rocker cover off, flywheel off etc. Both tensioners, both guide rails, the tensioner bolt and the chains totals around the £200 mark. So you need to add 8 - 9 hours labour to that. So you're looking at around the £450-£500 mark. Good time to do the clutch aswell by the way.... 100K is roughly when you need to consider getting it done. You can check the condition of the upper tensioner (the one that wears the most) by removing the rocker cover and having a wee snout at it. If it's deeply scored, start saving ASAP. If
  3. You will thank yourself for not getting the Fiat when you realise the engine has to come out to change the cambelt! They're not a bad car, a bit quirky, seriously quick (well, the 20V Turbo is) and handle well. But as with most Italian machinery, longevity and reliability are sadly lacking, ESPECIALLY with the electrics! If you're a keen driver, you will prefer the Corrado initially but a Golf can be made to handle just aswell to be honest. It's just that the Corrado runs a lot of negative camber and has passive steer rear bushings. Makes a lot of difference. If you want reliability with t
  4. I've only ever done silly little things like slamming the bonnet down onto sockets and screwdrivers and things, leaving tools on the roof and driving off etc, but my mate filled his gearbox with oil via the rubber bung that covers the flywheel timing marks, thinking that was the oil filler, LOL! I think he squeezed in about 4 litres and wondered why it was pouring out from under the bell housing cover by the sump! Now, do you think VW would use a flimsy rubber bung as a filler cap? LOL!
  5. Vince told me all the OBD2 highline engines he's put on the rollers dish out 185bhp all day long. Don't they have the larger 2.9 manifold and 2.9 sized throttle body? Could be a reason why, aswell as better and faster management control from the OBD2 ECU.
  6. Well owning a Corrado VR6 myself, I can see the reasons why it appeals to you. It's a lovely looking car, the 2.9 engine, despite what I've said previously, is a very strong performer when it's running well and healthy and you get amazing handling out-of-the-box. The motoring press regard the C VR6 as one of the finest handling FWD cars of all time, alongside the Honda Integra Type R. Only you can confirm that with a test drive but coming from a Golf background, the Corrado does have that extra little 'something'. It's a real driver's car. I really like the Highlines, especially when dro
  7. Well they both suffer the same wear on the chain tensioners but the 2.9 is not as strong as the 2.8. On the Corrado forum we've currently got members with 56K and 76K 2.9 engines that are burning oil. Plugs 1 and 6 are oily, which is generally a sign of premature bore wear on those two cylinders, something the 2.9 is renowned for I'm told. No one knows why. The general feeling from my experiences is that the Golf engine will go on forever if you do the chains at 100K and regularly service it, but the 2.9 engine is more or less dead at 100K, if not before. Of course there will be exceptions
  8. Have you tried replacing the ECU and fuel pump relays? Relay numbers 109 and 167. Part nos 357 906 381A and 191 906 383C. The lambda probe kicks in after roughly a minute, could be related.... not sure. Sounds like a weird one for sure. Hope you sort it. Kev
  9. FishWick

    Any good?

    I've tried all the leads under sun, just about. Good ones are:- VW Beru, Magnecor Electrosports 7 & 8mm, M'cor KV85 and Blue Igniters. Cack ones to avoid are:- G,S&F BBT, VW Quantum brand, EuroCarp ones and anything else that doesn't have proper German cap and plug ends. I've got a spare set of Blue Igniters (coilpack type) if anyone's interested. £45. K
  10. G12+ from the dealer is the stuff to use. A 70/30 G12+ to water blend is fine for the UK. Too much G12 reduces the water's ability to absorb heat. Agreed with the other guys, 114 at a steady 80 is too high. A new stat and fresh coolant should reduce it to more acceptable levels. Kev
  11. Got Koni TAs and H&Rs on mine. The two work perfectly together, almost as if they were made in collaboration between the two companies. I've yet to find a setup that offers the best compromise between ride comfort and handling......and I've tried quite a few! The H&R sport springs are often confused with their Race springs, which are VERY hard. The Sport springs are fine, far from harsh. Kev
  12. Different tensioner blades and bolt too. Solid polymer instead of the naff plastic lined metal ones we got. Simplex chains too I believe.
  13. If you're getting a Schrick manifold, you'll be losing the noise damper anyway, but there will be 20 surplus ones from the other group buy particpants. I'm sure one of them can help you out, if not, I've got a new one you can have. They tend to blow apart if the engine backfires through the induction, quite a site....and noise! K
  14. Before assuming the worst, might just be an airlock. You can tell if exhaust gases are overpressurising the coolant system (blown HG) because the coolant will stink of exhaust/petrol fumes. Air locks can come from a leak somewhere (aux pump always a favourite) or a poorly exectuted thermostat change. Try a coolant flush but this time, pour the coolant in through the rad top hose and not the expansion tank as this forces air out of the engine from the bottom up. Pounring in via the exp tank introduces air with the fluid, not good. Vince taught me that trick many moons ago and it's always work
  15. That's the trouble with Bentley....it's American and their cars are different, way different in some aspects. They have a 'Stop light' which they call a CEL. It's basically the same as our ABS warning light, but for the ECU, so alerts you to there being a problem. So how come UK people get short changed with that then? K
  16. FishWick

    Anybody?

    There's a few guys on 'the-corrado.net' forum with charged and NOS'd VR6s. They have experience of NOS on it's own though, on 2.9 and 3.0, 3.1 etc HC NA engines. HTH K
  17. Yeah aftermarket sway bars anchor to the rear damper bolts and also the beam using the supplied "wrap around" brackets. If you can be bothered to maintain the rose joints on Neuspeed bars, they're very very good. Otherwise Eibach, which are also very good.
  18. Cheers guys, not had a chance to have a play today but I will keep plugging away! Yeah it has just come out of the blue. It was always used to pull hard and was smooth with it, but I've always had the hunting between 1K and 2K since I got it 14 months ago. I can't hear any pinking at all Jules. Agreed, VRs are a pain in the butt!! Brett, do you know which relay supplies the ECU? Cheers Kev [ Edited Sun Apr 04 2004, 08:17PM ]
  19. Actually someone else I've been speaking too said the green spark plugs is caused by pre-ignition...so looks my knock sensors could be the problem. Could kind of explain the hunting below 2000rpm if the ECU doesn't know whether to advance or retard... Make sense?
  20. That's typical that!! Nevermind. I did try G&S and they said they only ones made by BBT.
  21. Cheers for the replies Jules.... As you say, I don't really want to be driving it without the knock sensors connected!! So it would seem the ECU should recognise when they're not connected.....I wonder why it doesn't then? I'm starting to think my ECU is knackered, or perhaps the knock controller circuit? I will try a drive tomorrow without them connected but I won't thrash it. Just curious to see if the brain actually knows they are there! Cheers Kev [ Edited Sat Apr 03 2004, 09:11PM ]
  22. ...I need to sort a running problem out I just can't cure, so need some help if poss? This could be long, please bear with me The engine misfires at exactly 1000rpm and also 2000rpm. In between these two rpms, the engine bucks on part throttle like it can't make it's mind up whether to accelerate or slow down. And also it's just plain gutless at 4000 rpm....no pull at all, just gets noisey and coarse. I pulled the plugs and all 6 are the same colour with no oil on the tips but the white insulators had a weird green coating on them though?? Engine is 93K old, no smoke on over-run, idle
  23. The original red Beru VW leads are indeed of the highest quality but I don't think they're made any more. Last time I enquired at the dealer they got some Quantum ones out which looked inferior, so I got some Magnecor KV85s instead, which will be going on when I get the Schrick as you lose the cable guides, so the 8.5mm thickness won't cause any issues.
  24. Got some NGK iridiums in mine at the moment and seem OK. No benefit over the OE NGKs though, other than perhaps longer life. Most plugs, even Plats and Iridiums don't last as long as claimed and certainly take the increased performace claims of irdium with a pinch of salt. They're only really of benefit to forced induction engines.
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