c00k 435 Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Oil catch tank installed on bulk head,just need to finish the piping. as I'm hiding as much of it as I can. New front engine mount and old engine mount. I've heard a few people say these mount are very harsh, i'm going to try a few different types of bushes on top of the mount before I disregard it.as the other option of a vibratech mount is kinda over budget for a front mount. Started off with a hockey puck, I've also got a few different things to try on the mount when road testing it soon. Painted the gear box mount, and re-painted the gearbox counter weight, one of my air bag plates, and started motor. Old gear box mount, reconditioned vibratech gearbox mount, and gearbox brace. Gear box mount and brace fitted with new high tensile bolts. Loads more has been done, so will upload with pics soon. Bealieboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted December 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Starter motor and counter weight re-fitted. More test fitting the charger. Made up a few mock pipes. D11PS, damian8588 and Bealieboy 3 Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 (edited) Monster and food. Winning combination for a successful build project Top work mate, it's what you'd call an inspiring read to all of us lazy feckers that keep putting off the inevitable! Edited December 21, 2014 by Big J Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 (edited) Cheers buddy, There's still more I have done, so will get that uploaded soon. I want to full braid my fuelling system in the not to distant future. Plus bermbo's upgrade on brakes with braided lines. Also toying with the idea of building a water and methanol injection setup. Edited December 22, 2014 by c00k D11PS 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 What brembos are you planning to use? I've been looking into Leon cupra R kits and also boxster fronts on 312 discs Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Yeah either 323mm from Leon. Or 966 rears on 312mm on front they have bigger pistons that the boxster.Leaning more towards the 323mm. Edited December 23, 2014 by c00k Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 23, 2014 Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Make sure you do some decent research, the rear calipers from any of the range, from what I've read on other forums are not suitable for front useage and you get a much better pedal using proper front calipers from a boxster. Apparently boxster S calipers are no good because they use a wider disc. I'll do some more digging in the spring when I'm ready to start on it, but it's just what I've gathered so far. 996 rears where the way I was going to go then I held off after reading various posts etc. Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted December 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 (edited) Cheers buddy I will do, I'm thinking more of the 323mm Leon ones anyway. It's just finding them in budget lol I'll keep my eyes open. Edited December 27, 2014 by c00k Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) Got another set of wishbones. 2nd hand VW's one. As I think even after a refurbish there better metal, and better made than aftermarket versions.Sanded them back using a flap wheel on drill to remove most of the paint and rust.Welded and extended the drop link mounts.As the anti roll catches my chassis when roll very low or when parked up.So I can still use and replace standard drop links.(it wasn't finished welded in the photo)Welded up few areas where the seam was incomplete, near where the bushes go.Also removed the upper circular lip, as this used to touch the sub frame.Plus a few more minor adjustments. But didn't get a photo.I then lightly sandblasted them to remove move of the rust. I tried to get inside but couldn't remove alot of it.Finally I put them in an acid dip to remove the rust from the inside and any minor rust let on the out side.Left in dip for 48 roughly hours.Plan is to zinc dip them, then get them re-powder coat professionally Only reason I can't do it my self, is I can not bake them to the required temperate to cure powder coat.While thinking about taking stuff to the powder coater I took the opportunity to get my spare front cross member done as well.This I removed the bushed by heating the top washer with a blow torch, made a complete mess of the bushes, but there're going to get replace. Then tap the top washer off while clamped in vice.Sandblasted all the paint off, it was quite good condition, what looks like red-ish or rusty in photo above is red oxide paint.using normal sand I dried in my oven haha, to make sure it was totally dry, and wouldn't clog up sand blast gun.and sieving it before use. £5 a bag and a £17 sand blasting gun. now I have the gun and can re-use when ever I want.Bush mounts for front cross member before acid dipping.I actually did this before the wishbones as a test.I chucked as much as I could in, mainly for a test, as i'd never done it before.Left it for 24 hours, some things I did put back in, about 48 hours in total. Edited January 12, 2015 by c00k Bealieboy, daveyboy and D11PS 3 Link to post Share on other sites
DanChave 98 Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Nice work! What acid are you using to strip the paint etc? Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) So a friend recommended this paint called Selemix. And I'm going to use it over getting stuff powder coated. As I can then do everything my self. There quite a few different types of selemix, so I did abit of research before deciding which to go for. Selemix is used for paint oil rigs, JCBs, tractors, lots of agricultural vehicles, cranes, containers, etc. So I set about building a spray booth in my garage, only a smallish one for doing parts. It not for a whole car. It's big enough to fit a bumper. Even though myself and a friend are building a full size spray booth in his garage, for painting mine and his 2 cars soonish Anyway my mini spray booth has 2 extraction fans, both 9" fans converted down to 5" ducting. The ducting exits through the window, I removed one pane of glass, and sealed a panel in there with grills with flaps on them, so they can push air out, but cold air can not return back in. Plus one 5" inlet fan. It's made out of a wooden box with the frame on the outside, and removable insert covering the inside, so they can be replaced once covered in few layers of paint. The inserts are made from a high density plastic / foam. And there white Used some LED strip lights for lighting, and I have 2 removable heaters I can put in there Both 1200watt. It also has a front door that flaps down from the top to help with curing, and to stop dust and crap getting in while drying. A pole that goes all the way across so I can hang things, but is also removable, for easy cleaning.Replaceable filters on the extraction fans, to stop them getting clogged up with paint mist.Got a new water trap and regulator mounted on the one side, so you just plug compressor in to that all it's all good to go. Didn't get any photos of building it , but I did get a few at the end. When it was all done, took me about 7-8 hours to build. Time to get painting, Oh yeah I also ordered a new spray gun aswell a devilbliss pro, a very well known brand in automotive spray industry. Just waiting to it to be delivered. Edited February 7, 2015 by c00k D11PS 1 Link to post Share on other sites
nezzi21 27 Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Just read the full thread, love this car and all the work gone into it! The difference in those bolsters is unreal, will need to see about getting someone to do mine.Thought i needed them retrimmed but clearly not. Also what adaptors and tyres you got on the RC's? Got a set of 041/042's that are being refurbed just now. Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Cheers buddy, much appreciated I run all RC041's even on rear. To get more tuck. I have 185 35 17 on my summer wheel. But the tyres will all be for sale soon, if interested PM me and we could sort something. 2 are almost brand new done under 100miles, 2 have about. 5-6mm done about 500-600miles.Only reason I'm selling them is I want to got back to 195 45 17. As I can already make the 185 35's brake traction while under heavy acceleration in 2nd. So with fitting the charger I want more grip. So I'm going to go for some pirelli 195 45 17's. I need a tiny bit of stretch for my front arches to clear tyres when bagged down. Other wise I'd go for. 205 40 17 for even more grip. But like I said mine are all rc041's. Adaptors I use 25mm front 35mm rear.For RC041's and RC042's I'd run 195 45 17 on front, and 215 40 17 or 205 40 17 on rear, with the wheel width difference, and stretch, both wheels would be roughly the same rolling radius, and have roughly the same stretch. Edited February 8, 2015 by c00k Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Front cross member in zinc primer. With and 85-90% zinc rating. Lower rated zinc primers offer less anti corrosive properties. Higher the rating the more protection. But should only be applied to bare metal, and not over rust. And the metal should either be acid dipped, sandblasted, or acid primed first to heavily key the the whole surface. Loads of new bolts, new tie bars, new ball joints, new track rod ends, all OEM getting a coat of zinc primer. The primer contains zinc phosphate so respirator must be worn! Edited February 11, 2015 by c00k Link to post Share on other sites
Bealieboy 1,625 Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Use kiln dried sand for block paving for your sandblasted cook, less than £2 a bag from wickes and it don't do a bad blast either! And no need to cook it first! Edited February 8, 2015 by Bealieboy Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) I did use kiln dry stuff buddy, got it from BnQ. but it wasn't dry enough. It's only bone dry when it comes out of the kiln. It sweats when it bagged up. And mine was slight moist. So in the oven it went Next time I buy it I'll look for a dryest bag there. 1st time I did it before so just grabbed a bag that was on top of pile and not split open lol. Edited February 9, 2015 by c00k Bealieboy 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Bealieboy 1,625 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Yeah look out for the rubbish bags! Take em from lower down the heap. Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Spray gun stand I made With my cheapy spray gun. Top section is for a filter to sit in when filling spray gun. Top coat polyurethane, meant to very hard wearing, some people say harder wearing than powder coat. As it's used on oil rigs, and cranes at sea. But I will find out over time. Hopefully it's brilliant. It sets almost like rubber. It's made from polyurethane which is a type of rubber compound. And commonly used to make poly bushes, which everyone knows last longer than normal bushes. Plus a hook to hang spray gun in booth. One with the heater, as I usally move it to take a better photo. I also close the door that flaps down from the top when curing the paint. Afew closer up. Lower arm needs a quick sand and another layer I think. Edited February 25, 2015 by c00k D11PS, bennyk, Bealieboy and 1 other 4 Link to post Share on other sites
Scott_P 38 Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Amazing build mate! Quick question, can you use the conduit on the silicone hoses in the bay? Like the coolant pipes etc? Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Cheers buddy, Yeah you should be able to use the conduit on water pipes, it's meant to be heat resistant. You'd just have to buy wider stuff to fit over the larger diamiter pipes. Link to post Share on other sites
Bealieboy 1,625 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 This is an interesting build thread cook, makes for great reading! Good work sir! Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Cheers buddy, If I can do it my self rather than getting a company to do it for me I'm always up for it, and I enjoy doing the research and the work afterwards. Research and knowledge is the key to any good build I think. You can never know to much, and are never to old to learn new things! Even though I'm only in my 20's lol damian8588, Bealieboy and D11PS 3 Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) Front cross member and lower arms finished in the polyurethane top coat. Subframe done while still on car, with everything disconnected. Again in the polyurethane coat. Loads of stuff waiting to be fitted, plus my bonrath vents, and wing mirror covers waiting to go in to body colour. Edited March 4, 2015 by c00k D11PS 1 Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Front crossmember all finished in polyurethane coat.Stupidly I didn't get a photo zoomed out of all of it.Pushed the polybushes in what a pain in the ass they are to do!used 2 big G-claps and various pieces of wood.and micro fiber cloths to stop marks on the paint.Got it all fitted on to the car.not the best pic in world, put a few braided lines on my power steering.More new old stock.Audi 80 Vdo dials i'm going to link up, unsure where I'm mounting them atm.I've also ordered a matching Vdo boost gauge I had to order from Germany.I'm thinking of mounting two maybe where the speaker goes on top of the dash.in a nicely made oem looking mount. The other two I'm unsure of where to put them.center console has air ride controls, and psi screen. I have a heat seats, so there's a switch in that location.don't really want to move the stereo, dis like pillar mounts, will come up with some location though.Wishbones will be fitted this weekend,Pushed some of the bushes in earlier this evening,Again what a pain in the ass to do the rear mounts!didn't get a photo, will get one on weekend Edited March 31, 2015 by c00k Bealieboy, Surreyvr6 and D11PS 3 Link to post Share on other sites
c00k 435 Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) New oem tie bars, new oem track rod end finished in polyurethane top coat.Re-conditioned tie bar gators.the bronze colour is copper grease.Tapping the wishbones bushed in.best way I found, but ended up using a larger hammer near end.I went for R32 rear solid bushes. not poly,because they have no outer lip like polybushes,this outer lip may of limited me when air out.so I went for R32 oem instead.I went for Polybush front mounts, and got them in red hahaNew oem ball joints, finished in polyurethane.Also the wishbones have been customized for maximum lows with standard subframe.I got them fitted on to the car using new oem bolts, that I also coated in the polyurethane.But didn't get photo yet.I've also done a tie rod notch other week, and welded all that up.So it now has tie rod notches both sides. and chassis notch drivers side I did ages ago.All fully welded and reinforced.My solid top mounts have also had a little bit of tweaking. So have the front air bag mounts.Plus customized wishbones, and tiny bit on subframe.Back on to the supercharger over Easter, as I have a few days off.I've got all the belts I need, all the bearing have been replaced. Everything's painted and polished.I designed a custom small pulley for the charger, which is now being made.Should hopefully be here some time this week.it takes 25mm width belts, meaning I can use off the shelf available belts. and will be a higher PSI.So need to get that fitted. I've made most of the piping, but still need to do abit more.Boost here we come! update coming soon..... Edited April 1, 2015 by c00k Bealieboy, D11PS and Surreyvr6 3 Link to post Share on other sites
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