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dom.joy

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Everything posted by dom.joy

  1. Has anyone fitted one? I knowing can run an inline sensor but I don't really want to cut my samco hoses. Cheers guys
  2. Have a google there's a few threads on edition 38 about them
  3. When I fitted my polybushed wishbones they came with little spacers that say around the bolt too and bottom. Although only the bottom ones go in otherwise the bolt doesn't line up
  4. Yeah that's the ones. They're made up off two numbered discs that spin. To add 1 deg of camber you spin to line up 20/20 at the top.
  5. Camber shims can increase camber and correct toe settings on the rear. You position them and cut the tabs out for the stub axle bolts relative to if you just want to add camber (line up 20/20 at the top and cut) or correct toe aswell (tech sheet gives you the numbers to line up before cutting). If lowered some people say they need to be rotated slightly to allow for natural toe of lowered car ( stick 19/19 top one side and 21/21 top the other side). This might sound confusing but would become clear with the shims in your hand.
  6. Hi After an alloy oil cooler cap for an external cooler install Cheers
  7. I used a chisel to remove the2 shear bolts that hold the bar to the column and then replaced them. Some people say it's easier to remove the bolt at the UJ. I didn't need to completely remove the knee bar just moved it enough to prise the heater box out.
  8. Ah man, seems I got lucky. The heater box is definitely larger with air con. The nuts are slightly different to the guide with air con. There are 2 on the passenger side that are around the air con pipes, easy to see though
  9. Is it when you turn the engine off? I'm sure I read that this can be normal when the secondary water pump starts
  10. Here is the link to the section. the guide is split over 2 parts http://www.vr6oc.com/forum/forum/22-interior/
  11. In the knowledge Vault section there is a guide. It is really helpful and easy to follow. I would say take your time and label anything you disconnect. I have just finished doing this and it isnt that bad if you get a second pair of hands to help with the knee bar and heater box removal.
  12. Must be a common feature then on the alarm cables. I've took my time over a couple weeks and its been okay
  13. Two bolts under the heat shielding on the bulkhead and then two on a rectangular bracket on the passenger side where the air con pipes go through the bulkhead.
  14. I'm in the process of; Heater Matrix, AC delete, baffled sump, poly bushed wishbones, oil pressure gauge. External Oil cooler is in the plans for next year so will do crack pipe and thermostat housing then
  15. I really dont think the job is as bad as it's made out to be. Especially handy to have the diy on the ipad whilst doing it. All went back in yesterday so with a few other bits to do I will find out if I was successful next weekend
  16. Pretty much the images I'm scrolling through at the moment. Will try and get it off tomorrow. Cheers
  17. Will give it a go tomorrow. The old seal is proper flush to the plastic cap
  18. Take it I can just pry it out with a small screwdriver then?
  19. This might be a stupid question but I can't seem to remove the seal for the cap to cooler on my obd2 vr6. The seal is flush to the cap and cannot be gripped?or is it not replaceable and not need removing? Thanks
  20. Looks like the long metal spring I used to clear my sunroof drains. Not much help I know but hope its nothing terminal.
  21. Dash is out and knee bar is unbolted ready to come out tomorrow, hopefully along with the heater box. So fun is just about to begin...
  22. Haha thanks. Well dash is un bolted ready to come out and the AC is all removed, so making progress.
  23. Don't think I realised quite how involved the Climatronic system is
  24. Ah okay. Thanks for answering all my questions. I'm sure I'll know more once I get the dash off. Keep an eye on the thread haha
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