When I fitted my polybushed wishbones they came with little spacers that say around the bolt too and bottom. Although only the bottom ones go in otherwise the bolt doesn't line up
Camber shims can increase camber and correct toe settings on the rear. You position them and cut the tabs out for the stub axle bolts relative to if you just want to add camber (line up 20/20 at the top and cut) or correct toe aswell (tech sheet gives you the numbers to line up before cutting). If lowered some people say they need to be rotated slightly to allow for natural toe of lowered car ( stick 19/19 top one side and 21/21 top the other side). This might sound confusing but would become clear with the shims in your hand.
I used a chisel to remove the2 shear bolts that hold the bar to the column and then replaced them. Some people say it's easier to remove the bolt at the UJ. I didn't need to completely remove the knee bar just moved it enough to prise the heater box out.
Ah man, seems I got lucky. The heater box is definitely larger with air con. The nuts are slightly different to the guide with air con. There are 2 on the passenger side that are around the air con pipes, easy to see though
In the knowledge Vault section there is a guide. It is really helpful and easy to follow. I would say take your time and label anything you disconnect. I have just finished doing this and it isnt that bad if you get a second pair of hands to help with the knee bar and heater box removal.
Two bolts under the heat shielding on the bulkhead and then two on a rectangular bracket on the passenger side where the air con pipes go through the bulkhead.
I'm in the process of; Heater Matrix, AC delete, baffled sump, poly bushed wishbones, oil pressure gauge. External Oil cooler is in the plans for next year so will do crack pipe and thermostat housing then
I really dont think the job is as bad as it's made out to be. Especially handy to have the diy on the ipad whilst doing it. All went back in yesterday so with a few other bits to do I will find out if I was successful next weekend
This might be a stupid question but I can't seem to remove the seal for the cap to cooler on my obd2 vr6. The seal is flush to the cap and cannot be gripped?or is it not replaceable and not need removing? Thanks