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Posts posted by RBPE

  1. UPDATE: Sorry I've not posted anything, been out of the car game for a while now.


    Tunerpro was buggy for me and I don't need to use it so I didn't piddle about much with it.... but I'm patching together a big, correct BDE def so I've got one to hand and I'll put up pertinent info as and when I can.


    The 032CN file on the net is quite good for picking things out but it can be a bit off - like the ME7.5 20vt lot, you'll get incorrect defs and all sorts which is why it takes time to make sure it's right, plenty of reversing etc.


    *** I'm using the file I requested off Nefmoto in the link earlier by the way so it's easy to back-trace too in future - they tend to always have the data in the same area these BDE 032BG files, just some differences in data prob due to market/legis reasons.


    So, the areas for making your own pops/soft launch, higher speed limits and rpm's;

    BDE RPM Speed Launch


    Here's what I mean with the data not stacking up correctly/def files used being off etc - LAMFA - a common problem many 20vt def file builders get;





    Your codewords should be around there - check the 032cn file in ols to find out what they are or I'll update in due course; (**slip of the pen only on the 00/01 being on/off if it confuses you!)

    BDE BFH Codewords_zpsnclq4w4d










    I'll add the data areas I've just defined below, they should be correct but I've got a few things to check like here, ancilliary (compressor) torque. Probably irrelevant but if you go FI and you're dealing with; pedal/throttle angles/flow/charge/torque management/inlet mani etc as well as start/after-start/idle etc, it's best to have it all to hand really! Plus, def/calibration files are pants usually for these!


    Compressor/ancilliary torque areas around here at quick look; (just notes for me when I revisit this);

    Compressor torque bde


    So - locations I've just done in last few hours on your BDE 032BG should be;

    BDE CSV SS 1


    BDE CSV SS 2


    BDE CSV SS 3


    ***** I might just have this thread for xdf/def file building for now and we can go more in depth on tuning/DIY tuning at a later date. Assuming theres interrest of course as I have no need to do this anymore really and everyones FaceTubing it nowadays?


  2. Glad there's still some old skool lot around! 


    Can't beat the v6 4 mo or A3 3.2 really, high equipment spec, comfy, grip and an engine that sounds good from the off, let alone if you turbo it with a 'zorst! Might have to delete that statement as others will be let into the secret and prices will go up! 


  3. Actually sorry - to clarify - this was in relation to the W8 using ME7.1.1. not even looked at the W12 tbh, was thinking W8, but if it's ME7.1.1. too then above applies. If not, then technically it still applies anyway as it's just configuring what sensors/inputs/outputs - same as any project really in that respect!


    Easy way to think of it - look at the ME7.1.1./W8 SSP in the link - it mentions some differences to the R32 ones in there/part changes etc. Also, other easy way to think of it is - if you de-cat, then the reading the ecu gets will not be oem due to the expected changes with a cat than without. You can tune your car to run right - may take time and you may still have a fault show up, or you can simply configure the ecu to think it has no sensor after the cat and bypass the strange readings, or in some instances, a mixture of the two, easier than doing lot's of tuning and still be tuned right.


    Either way, if you do a big project, use as much of donor bits mentioned above to save a lot of money and if you can use all/most of the electrical/ecu realted gubbins, then it needn't cost a lot to sort. 

  4. On 2/16/2021 at 2:50 AM, Darkcobalt said:

    I think I found my answer Haltech.com R5 VCU.

    More conversations wth them but 'sounds good', so far.

    Philly, thanks for the warnings. There is never enough money or time. Been down similar rabbit holes.

    Imagine a 12 cylinder midengine Karman Ghia?

    Bulging bodywork to cover Porsche Turbo sized tire/wheels. Speedster like windshield?  Basic idea. I have a couple other ideas for it.

    I do have a line on a complete VW Phaeton $5,000usd. 

    Sorry I am in the states. Your club was first up that I thought could help.

    I will let you guys known when the project starts.

    Thanks for the replies


    I did help! Told you the easy way to do it but you seem intent on over-spending! 😉 

    Get donor car - use ALL or AS MUCH as possible in - ecu's/wiring/sensors/clocks - basically the electrical bits - configure as required (any half competent Motronic specialist if you're using the oem stuff) - done! They use a lot of the same parts in terms of inputs (sensors), it's just the dual bank/master-slave engine and ecu config - nigh on impossible or far too expensive as it'll have to be custom written/sniffed lines etc - all negated if you are using a donor and associated parts really.


    W12 info;



    (I'll let you look for part 1 there


    W8/ME7.1.1. Info;



    R32 info; (in there somewhere with part 1 of w12, V5 has some info too)


  5. Is the car running okay? Generally replace any sensors with codes but if theres too much current drop & a few problems at once like this, I'd get a multimeter & check the wiring/relay/currents before anything else for what they cost.

  6. Variability and the air speeds/reverberations involved in the cycle;




    Due to design complexity and manufacturing costs, the top model gets a VRIM in it's development (different design to no.1 as Schrick own the 12V rights), but it's limited to 2 variables and is plastic due to that. These still promote forced/laminar flow at certain points and is better than none but not as good as multiple variable mani due to the afore statement - so simply put - lot's of air bouncing about and is forced as and when due to cost/design prob's and testing in development like above! 

    The 12v's work on a smaller/larger orifice speeding up or slowing down a set air mass, whereas the 24v's it's about the reverberating air going back and forth off the mani walls to slave it in.


    As for mods;

    1. I'd always recommend stripping and refreshing the engine before anything else, this can add power on a tired engine and gives you a solid base for longevity. Also, instead of something like cams and a map, you could have an engine builder (or you), do some porting polishing - you should also think about changing the spinny/holdy things on the bottom end (bearings and bolts), as well as squashy/snappy things in the head (like valve springs and stems) that take a battering over the millions of cycles in their life.

    2. Usual filter/zorst mods.

    3. For a set of upgraded cams you want a remap, add in change over barrel function of the RIM etc - prob 20-25hp with filter/zorst so 225hp or so on 2.8, 275-285hp on 3.2 - like I say though, if stripping an engine, sorting the breathing mods on the head could get the same results but add longevity.


    That's where I would leave NA, FI isn't that expensive if you know what you are doing, adding forged parts to an NA bottom end plus head work is actually more expensive, however as most don't know how to do it all themselves they tend to look at an FI conversion costing £4k+, but that's not far off the costs of a good, built NA engine for only around 300hp!

  7. Not enough airflow to justify an enlarged throttle body on an NA build plus it'd make your mapper's job harder thus pointlessly adding £££'s, nor any need for forged parts, FI R32s have done 6-700hp on near enough stock engine

  8. 12v's are appreciating in value now, thats the problem, seen good uns pretty much same price as R32 mk5's! 


    Best off using crashed donors for electrical reasons/k line data etc, ESKONF off what you dont need, may get the odd elec fault code which you can sort or generally leave if not affecting anything, same as any conversions really, setting up the inputs & outputs used. 


    ME7 (24v motors) best for options, earlier AUE type can be a bit tricky to define with maps missing so defs/data thinner on the ground. 3.2 best catered for followed by BDE.


    Tuning is as said, usual NA breathing mods, don't expect miracles though, FI's the way forward for that.

  9. Lot of money for a burble sound! You could at least refresh head parts if well used but mapping needed and so on, hundreds at least.


    Get a cheap (but latest me7.1.1 compatible) clone ecu reader, read your ecu, plenty of defs on nefmoto (may need to post a few times to see them though), BDE maps should be around here for soft coding;




    Theres other threads on hard coding, me7 very similar- so £50 outlay you can have it popping how you want with a bit of graft without the need for expensive hardware that yields little gain. (Plus you can sort the nox emissions with some fine tuning so it poops out little bunny rabbits 😉



  10. 12 injectors not 6 so you'd need to go through all the output system (ESKONF) there, any displacement/ cylinder differences inc airmass calcs for fuel...plus it runs a master/slave system for the other bank so you'd have so much to do there on sniffing lines so that everythings talking to one another properly....and so on. 


    Crash damaged w12, can use most/all ecu/wiring parts but immo off will prob be same as any other me7.1.1., speak to a tuner that is a winols customer and buy a def file off them for a few hundred quid and then build your own tunerpro file to tune then log with vcds assuming the system's are talking properly. It'll prob be same tuning basics as 24v vr, so not a massive amount of gains NA, but it's the configurations thats your problem.

  11. Why use MSnS? You planning on tuning it yourself afterwards and don't want to use oem ecu? It's NA from stock so no boost controls and the speed density aspects are probably a little different than most are used to on aftermarket stuff on the Motronic (GGDSAS/EFGE).

  12. The US seems to have catered for a lot - so good market there, ironic given the lack of good 24v 4wd options we EU/UK (as below) enjoy! But;;





    Many EU/UK (cause we're not the same now ;) ), ones can supply such parts (dying market) - but the money's in more modern models, few options either way in EU, or domestic VAG specialists will offer the same as EU re-sellers but it's more modern machines which pro's cater for as that's where the money is, still options -  eg;



    Hope that helps!

  13.  It's usually some high mileage hardware wear and tear stuff like you've mentioned - but did you have it remapped after upgrading the cams? I'd keep an eye on all the oil aspects on older vehicles, had dodgy oil pickups/blockages etc destroy engines, even forged ones!


    Did you do anything with the bottom end?

  14. 1988 I started out in VAG tuning, internet wasn't even invented back then! 


    2008 was when I signed up here on a last profile, 2011 this one, there were a few years of lurking before then! What got me into VR's was a black mk2 12v on the cover of either PVW or Golf+ - was before the 1.8T came out so that long ago!





    Amazing to see how far the aftermarket scene has come and the level of tech info available compared to the 90's! The old skool stuff like mk1-3 are getting a bit thin on the ground now like you say, you couldn't give that stuff away back in the day!

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