RBPE
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Posts posted by RBPE
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I assume you are on about these rods;
I've not used them yet myself but know a few tuners building and running around 600hp with them, non UK so didn't see what they did to the engine - so for interference I suppose it depends on your valvetrain set up but there's 3mm length difference according to the site there. Just drop in with stock pistons, alternatively there's the spacer plate and rod bolts/head studs route.
Not a lot needed for reliability until you chase bigger numbers, main point I would say is refreshing the engines due to high mileage/tolerances which would cause the greatest stresses - that and detonation in the tune.
If you're thinking about a T3/4 then no need to go silly with cams and/or cranks, we never really got those turbo's over here but nice little snails, what you thinking 60 trim? Intake manifold will depend on either how your turbo is going to sit, so - what exhaust manifold you use will be one factor to consider, or likewise it will depend on your tune/tuner as to whether they set the map up for short runner or general manifolds as there are a few variances you can do in a tune.
You've got loads of options in the US for that, we didn't get mk4 12V's here in the UK though.
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This still for sale?
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Did the Kinu on Japanese cars, not bad, make sure you factor in import duties and what have you in case (26% of unit and post price ish) which brings them up to sort of Precision Turbo level, GTW's not far off.
The guy that does them was the partner of Kinugawa apparently but they fell out so he went the lone route - probably basically the same things.
Good for what they are, I'd just look into what it can cost with the duty and look into other things. A friend has been looking at them and with the duty and cost of a recirc etc an EFR on his 20vt will not be much more for what he is after (smaller turbo than 6 pots).
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Yeah. T3 turbo will fit T3 manifold, get the measurements for cars and try and work them out, can clock turbo's, counter-tap manifold for fitments etc, tune might be an important factor regarding the manifold to think about too - but these'll go off topic for this sticky.
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12 hours ago, Nero Mk 2 said:
pre pubescent urgency of the 12 valve
Lol.
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The top link is a Rothe knock off and the bottom link is an SPA knock off - neither of those companies like that fact, in fact Mallon stopped making his for the well known turbo companies I think due to it. It's the quality variances to think about, the differences in the 25 years of SPA casting and/or Rothe material spec which add's value and thing's like porosity in manufacturing for example;
http://www.afsinc.org/content.cfm?ItemNumber=6933
Do you really want to skimp when such things are subjected to 1000*C temp's? I believe Kev ran an SPA knock off on his DIY Turbo guide so have a read of that too!
Some info to look into if you want to learn variances in this area;
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductivity
https://wings.buffalo.edu/eng/mae/cmrl/Materials for thermal conduction.pdf
(You have conduction and resistance don't forget so it's all to do with understanding thermal resilience to avoid things like manifold cracks or conduction for intercoolers etc).
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On 19/01/2017 at 3:22 AM, Hotskillet said:
Thanks for the response and assistance. I think your X-horizontal, and Y-vertical references are unversed by understand what you're saying.
I'll to get into the Garrett calculator but based on your input, the smallest I should go is a GTX35/82 but the GTX35/84RS edges out in efficiently, wheel speed and potential growing room but not much after 60lb/min
I'm itching to use a GTX3584, I'd say yes for a 600whp set up - go for around 1a/r at 600 - it's all kind of changing at Garrett to keep up with the Jones' though, all the Gen 2 and buy comp/turbine seperately - you can dig out the odd old GT35R from some - sort of a transitional phase and Brexit here for prices, lucky in the US for those things!
Yeah - got the axis mixed up though I think? I type quickly - x axis lbs/min times 10 for rough hp rating, 1 on vertical is ambient (outside) pressure so 1.5 is a half bar boost etc - Garrett's guide gives you rough equations, I'd type them up if I was computer literate to do the lines!
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Tuning's about the hardest thing you could do with that - if you look at the HGP twin turbo's they retain single airbox and maf (hfm) due to that's how the oem has it set up - it all references one air sample point (the hfm). Integrating 2 would be very difficult on oem due to that, lot's of custom code integrating maps/jumps etc, not sure on options for aftermarket ecu's, you'd have to have a look at each one!
If I was you though I'd look into the mass and size of a GT35 compressor and turbine wheel and look into gas flow dynamics at various (loads/flows/air speeds etc) and see if 1 GT35 compressor wheel or 2xGT2871 compressor wheels have more or less mass in terms of reference to air flow mass/speed/flow - i.e. 3 ports to one wheel on twin turbo or 6 ports on 1 turbine wheel for the 35 and see if it lines up with your goals. 9 times out of 10 it's single for the win!
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Anything from a £20 flashing tool to £200,000's worth of equipment really!
There's various elements to tuning and variances between ecu's/brands so you start by what market you want to do it for and work from there.
Cheapest way to tune a car for yourself would be to get a cheap ebay clone like this;
I've used that exact tool on a mate's 20vt as it's all we had to hand at the time and he'd already used it on his car - did the job!
You can spend thousands on a flashing tool alone though and what tool you get, again, comes down to what you can afford, what market you're aiming at - few examples;
http://alientechsales.co.uk/alientech-k-tag/
https://www.chiptuningshop.co.uk/product/mpps-obd-tool/
Once you've got a read of your ecu then you need to convert the binary data in a hex editor - some tools you can do it in the tool/with everything built in or in the case of winols, get the hex editor and add emulation tools.
https://www.chiptuningshop.co.uk/product/winols-editor/
There's also bench flashing and in some cases changing of the chips on the board.
However, there are plenty of free hex editors out there, this is a good one people have used;
Once you have modified the data then you need to checksum it - basically a sum that changes when you change data, a corrector will change the sum when you change data to match what it was when you took the read and so it can be flashed back on the ecu correctly with the data mods. Some of the clones are being offered with inbuilt checksums, the expensive tools tend to have them inbuilt too and you can buy modules with things like winols for each ecu checksum. The CS' come down to the ecu revisions, for example, between the mk4 and 5 R32's there are 3 C167 processor revisions so you need 3 modules to be able to do all of them at £300 or so a pop! That's where the money starts to add up the more vehicles you do (£20k+).
If you're struggling for checksums, some people offer a service or there are things like this if you're just doing one or 2 ecu types;
You can, ecu dependent, sort the checksums out manually, that hxd editor would be all you need for that really! Generally though, it's the tools that make life easier and they can have all these things in-built to make life much easier!
So that's the read/writing and editing side of things - onto the tuning and more technical side!
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Once you've got that sorted then it's on to air/fuel metering. You can buy single use things for emulating the data/changes if you're just doing one or two ecu's, or they're add ons for the tools you choose - prime examples;
http://www.moates.net/realtime-emulation-c-95.html
https://www.evc.de/en/product/ols/ols300/
What a pro would tend to do though, seeing as you're doing a number of cars, would be to purchase a transferable device that allows them to analyze the lambda data in real time, these are good ones;
http://www.ecm-co.com/category.asp?afra
All of the above would sort you out for something like live mapping or bench flashing/emulation really - how much you spend can vary massively as you can see.
Then there's the dyno! These are used for obvious reasons - safety in not having to drive everywhere live mapping, having tools to hand etc but mainly steady state tuning on the fuelling side. Easier to set a dyno at 4k rpm's than sit like that on the street! Budget £10-100k+ 2nd hand/new for that plus renting a building or buying a van if mobile.
The last bit is custom coding integration or more technical modifications in that respect. All the dyno operators I've dealt with tend to have someone for this type of thing, so it's rare to have one that will know these things but it's all about reverse engineering and adding data in redundant areas and making former data redundant for the new. You need a disassembler aimed at the processors used for that and lot's of coding background for these things but it basically tells you how the ecu/processors work, jumps and calls and all the coding malarky.
Phew!
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You need to guess rpm limits and VE and what have you, Garrett's tuning threads tell you how to do it. You also can't really guess on spool accurately without looking into what others run similar to you, efficiency of set up, ecu tune/cam timing, turbine housing etc can all make a big difference. You can guess but use Garrett's info.
At a quick guess on these anything around 600hp crank or wheel even, would be looking at top end limits of top pump fuel, 98/99 RON here so a couple of bar maybe a bit more or less depending on efficiency, so go to the 60lbs/min y axis on the GTX35/40 or whatever compressor wheel, plot 3 bar on the x axis (1 bar ambient pressure + 2 bar boost), look at wheel speed and efficiency - efficient set up less boost (2.7) or opposite (3.2bar psia on x) to see guesstimates. You can go off the usual "double the torque figure for a bar of boost" but it's not very accurate, too many efficiency aspects to consider!
Spool though, in my experience and with lot's of factors to consider;
0.63ar roughly low 3krpm's for decent spool not best at top end >400/450hp, 0.82ar mid 3krpms for a bar of boost >500/550hp, big hp chasers/turbo's look at mid 4krpm's for 20psi+ - again though, lot's of factors to consider!
Rough estimates though!
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Azev A are my absolute favourites though for any car;
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Me likey, is that purple though or just the light? Concave do make the wheels look nicer on any car.
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Both great sets of turbo's, main reasoning for most is usually the sheer length of the EFR's and the tight confines of the transverse bays.
Direct from HPA usually for the manifold although I sometimes come across the odd HGP or Mallon one in the German classifieds if you keep an eye out - saves hundreds just check for cracks on pics although they tend to be honest in their descriptions - not got one at the mo tho.
I've not had an email through, I'll check the spam filters but rule of thumb you'll pay less than they are on ebay and I'll get best price, can change from day to day though with it being European based stock and post Brexit!
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It's pushing the limit's of the 7670 a bit that, 8374 might be better, more efficient. The 2 I'm dealing with at the moment are both running GT40's so they can handle big turbo's!
Cast mani, there's a few choices. People normally go for knock off SPA Turbo ones, I'm bias but I'd say an original one with T4 flange using the 0.92ar might be an idea. Failing that the HPA ones are probably the best, got the twin lambda bosses in too. CTS T4 ones look quite good too with their inconel. Few choices there.
Personally, if you have a fabricator, have them weld up a twinscroll manifold coming off the stock 3-1's and use the 8374 twin-scroll 1.05a/r for that top end if you're looking at the 600's mark!
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I've hooked a few up with Sachs/Sachs SRE and they seem to like them, never had any complaints, usually the go to one in the UK
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It'll be there somewhere, it's the entire car, probably just in a different area ifyou go through the menu, for example;
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On 31/12/2016 at 11:17 AM, V64motionjsy said:
Would love to get hold of some pictures of where these items are situated, there doesn't seem to be much info available on this car
I've just given you links to all the parts and pictures above! 20, 21, 24 etc here;
What codes exactly is it showing too?
http://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?360-Troubleshooting-P1340-Camshaft-Position-Error
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You could probably backtrack it if you get the Denso part number or try a company that sells them for the angle I suppose and check it against the stock ones?
https://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-434013.html
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Do the spray patterns and angles line up?
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Check the engine code - BDE twinny for example;
AQP/AUE Single VVT to 2001, BDE twin VVT 2002 - check engine code for dates around there to see which or part differences;
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You can sack the spacer off nowadays;
Turbo, intercooler, recirc valve, injectors, possibly maf depending on how it is tuned, pipe-work, exhaust manifold, possibly inlet manifold depending on the exhaust manifold, downpipe, possibly wastegate dep on turbo.
ARP hardware is always a good idea where possible, might be forgetting a few things but rough idea
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Early 24V's inlet cam timing only, later ones inlet and exhaust cam timing, sensor accordingly!
Mk3 side skirts
in Bodywork and Styling
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http://www.oemepc.com/vw/parts_lst/markt/RDW/modell/GO/year/1995/hg/8/catalog/vw/drive_standart/159/lang/e