wardycatt

I replaced my faulty PCV with a catch can, but then ditched that and went back to the PCV. Therefore I'd recommend replacing the PCV with a new one - it will probably outlive the car and doesn't have to be periodically emptied. It's also the way VW intended your car to be, and there's no performance upgrade to be gained from the catch can. If you're venting to atmosphere / using a catch can (with no breather) then I think you need to block the skinny breather pipe going into the top of the PCV or you'll get a rough idle. No idea what impact it has on MOT, but my advice is buy a new PCV if po

I've got PTSD just thinking about the dash removal again. Have fun.

chewtown If you mean removing the headlight or foglight, it's a two minute job either way - well worth doing it properly if you want good (lasting) results, and I reckon removal will give better results than doing it in situ. If you mean tinting the inside of the lens (not sure about the wisdom of this), then it's headlight baking time. 160oC for about 7-10 mins, a little salt and pepper, bon apetit! Foglights will take less time. Give them 2-3 mins to start, then check every minute until the glue starts to give. Don't pry too hard or you'll definitely crack the lens. Some films might b

Any idea how that causes it to stall? Just out of interest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm no expert, but I think the oil is a red herring here. I can't see how that would periodically affect your idle. It's most likely some sort of sensor-related issue in my opinion. Idle control valve, MAF etc...

I bought a few bits from Howling Mad Murdoch recently. Everything was well packed and as described. The deal went smoothly and I'm happy with all the parts.

I bought a plastic moulding from MJ VR6 recently. Everything went as planned - item arrived well packed and in good time.

I bought a window regulator from Dopeydean a few months back. The item arrived as described and in good time.

I bought brake calipers and disks from Shawy at the start of the year. The items arrived quickly, were well packed and I'm generally happy all round.

That saves a bit of time then. I wonder if you could do a similar thing on the passenger side by taking the airbag out. My problem was a small crack in the bodywork near the passenger side bonnet mount.

Unless anyone knows a trick, I suspect you're going to have to take your dash off to get a the part that's disconnected. I'm taking my dash off now for this very reason. These sunroof drains are a PITA.

In my opinion, you shouldn't use a catch tank. On the face of it, they are cheaper (depends on model) and will do the job just fine. You can also get a one that's colour coded to your car and looks cool. However, the cheap-ass ones from eBay come with terrible fixtures and fittings. By the time you've got decent hoses and connectors for it, plus the hassle of finding a place for it to go, plus the hassle of having to empty it periodically.... just use the PCV! There is no performance increase from using a catch can. I installed a catch tank, but have now went back to a PCV setup. As previ

I wouldn't chance driving the car in its current condition. You should tow it to the garage. As for the cause, doesn't this just sound like the age-old tensioner pulley problem? These things fail all the time (many posts on here discussing it). I bought a replacement pulley wheel for the tensioner and a new belt, the repair cost me about £20 and took less than an hour as far as I can remember. You'll need a long M8 bolt as well. I know its probably sacrilege to post a link from another VW site, but here's a how to guide that may prove useful: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.ph

Thanks for the replies. I've been thinking about the thermostat, and the potential for it being stuck open. Going to check that. Lukey - Since the problem only recently developed (it's been fine for two years), I don't think that's the cause... but if I'm going to potentially replace the thermostat in the next week anyway, what are the benefits (if any) of a low temperature 'stat? Is it of more use with forced induction models (which I assume get up to higher temperatures) or would my bog-standard motor benefit at all?

My car doesn't ever seem to get up to temperature these last few weeks. Under normal circumstances, it would get to 90oC and stay there. It now gets to about 75-80oC and stays there. It doesn't matter what I do - razz the life out the car, sit idle in a traffic jam, have the heaters full on / off - the temperature does still move up and down a bit, but won't ever get above 80oC (apparently). The car's running absolutely fine otherwise. It's not using any more coolant than normal or anything. I'm going to check the coolant temperature sender this weekend - but does anyone have any a