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rsweeney

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Everything posted by rsweeney

  1. rsweeney
    that air hose is meant to connect to the plastic brake vacuum hose. cant remember where abouts the pipe off heater matrix goes
  2. rsweeney
    the small pipe coming between the two matrix pipes is to do with aircon, the vacuum pipe is also for the aircon . Does your vr have aircon or has it been removed?
  3. rsweeney
    not yet put off as its £25 a go , i was wondering if the temp guage is wrong ? last service was a year ago so its over due one although its had new sparks and leads.
  4. rsweeney
    First of my automatic golf vr6 seems to run slightly rough in neutral - when i say rough its not a dead smooth, steady idle. However in drive doesnt hesitate seems smooth. secondly the coolant temperature still rises up to just over 90 before the fans kick in , it creeps up to late 90's then as the fans do their job it can go as far down as 80 whilst cruising for a bit. coolant is all newG12 and i have tried my best to bleed air from system - only happened since i changed blue temp sensor. (coolant level is steady) The 3 wires going into the throttle body plug are thin and nearly snapped, jus
  5. rsweeney
    cheers mate thats what i hoped, will order some up, remove loom and solder in, althoguh i did like the idea of fresh wires all round
  6. rsweeney
    with replacing the length of wires where would i go to buy the new wires which are the correct thickness and suitable for engine temperatures etc?
  7. rsweeney
    Im wantin a permenant fix for the engine loom on the vr6. It is repaired in a few places as some wires which go into sensors have deteriorated so that the wires are exposed for example the one going to throttle body (which is worrying me alot!) Ideally i wanted to save for a new one but vw dont sell them anymore according to the vw dealer over here. A more realistic approach as suggested by a mate was to remove the whole loom, unwrap it and check each wire for breaks and solder up any breaks then heat shrink and rewrap loom. But what about sorting out the wires going into plugs such as the thr
  8. rsweeney
    looks amazin i had a seat ibiza and rebuilt the entire engine on it before selling it, at the time i laughed about making a vr6 engine fit! did you have trouble with the wiring?
  9. rsweeney
    right an update, took the golf to a bodyshop for this , they looked at it for free and advised on how to fixit : they said that the waterproof membrane was a little bit tight and one side of the door was slightly dented in. with the two of these problems added together there was to much of a stretch between the bottom of the door car and the door for the clips to be strong enough to clip in. slackening the waterproof membrane and straightening the door out with a slide hammer should fix it . Havent tried this yet as i dont own a slide hammer but will update when i do !
  10. rsweeney
    ah yeah will try that on weekend. but could it be the control module ? then one under the coolant expansion tank?
  11. rsweeney
    did the test and the fans turn on but not the water pump. i know the aux pump is good, is it likely to be the wiring to the pump which is broken?
  12. rsweeney
    cheers thats a good link , going to try this : Fans/pump after-run fault-checking You can use the following procedure to find out if your yellow temp sender is the cause of no after-run or not. This does not necessarily prove that the yellow temp sender is working, but it will prove if the circuitry that it controls is working or not. Turn ignition key on, then off again Disconnect the 4-pin connector from the yellow temperature sender switch Bridge contacts B, D (brown/red and brown wire) The radiator fan and auxiliary coolant pump must come on If NO, check the fan control unit and/or the aux
  13. rsweeney
    Hi , noticed that my auxillary water pump ( although new ) doesnt turn on even after a good run. i have checked the fuses near the control module and they are all sound. related information: i have rexcently fixed one broken wire to the yellow coolant sensor and flushed coolant system. the coolant temp seems to rise over 90 before fans kick in and then the temp comes down again. Today i unpluged the sensor and plugged it back in and now it stays below 90 as fans kick in. Any ideas?
  14. rsweeney
    right guys i checked it against a wiring diagram i found and 90% of the wires match the diagram however i decided to fix the wire which had obviously worn through and left the thin brown wire which doesnt connect to anything undone and after plugging in and starting the car the warning light was still on , at this point i was thinking i might need to rewire the entire thing but after slamming the brakes on sharply whilst on gravel the abs pump kicked in and light turned off!! will just need to re tape the loom and then it should be sorted
  15. rsweeney
    yeah , i found a picture of the abs plug on the internet and all the pins match up with mine but one pin , it looks like i have one extra pin and its the one with the brown wire which isnt connected to anything. my plug with extra pin ? (top row) the one i found which seems to match mine but without extra pin
  16. rsweeney
  17. rsweeney
    My golf used to be a gti untill i converted to vr6, i didnt touch the brake system as it was the same as vr6. Its is OBD2 one of the previous owners must hav disconnected the dash panel for airbag and abs warning light so i decided to connect it and the abs illuminated. i then realised the wires going into the plug look like this ! can anyone help me with what i need to do. as you can see in pic the wiring is a mess, light brown wire is disconnected blue wire just links two pins of the plug together and im sure there are other bits connected incorrectly. bit worried atm PLEASE HELP!!
  18. rsweeney
    today i sorted out the coolant by flushing through the system and changing it for longlife coolant ( 5year stuff ) . The mix is 4litres of coolant and rest distilled water. Whilst running is silky smooth cold starting still takes a noticeable amount of time. what should i try next?
  19. rsweeney
    right i understand now will have to buy the vw G12 coolant and completely flush the system of the blue stuff before putting G12 in. what mix of coolant to water is it ? yeh i have used euromarque before and they are decent just slightly expensive , i do all work on the vr myself though as i enjoy it and keeps costs down.
  20. rsweeney
    tomorrow i will run it up to temp with coolant cap removed to try and remove air from system. I used blue antifreeze as its all i had , it doesnt have any cooling properties i thought though does it, only stops corrosion?
  21. rsweeney
    right, fitted new blue temp sensor along with flushing the cooling system and refilling with new coolant ( blue type ) and water. runs alot smoother and slightly quicker to start but will need to try again in the morning to be certain. however the coolant temperature creeped up to just under 100 degrees ( needle going past verticle ) when idling after a good run. anything to worry about ?
  22. rsweeney
    ah right its no prob, i guess genuine from vw is best though ?
  23. rsweeney
    just got a price from vw guernsey , £16.75!! going to bite the bullet and buy it but why so expensive over here and not the uk ?
  24. rsweeney
    ok , and a heat shrink butt connector wouldnt do it then ? if not i will solder, thanks again for your help
  25. rsweeney
    ok im with you. i plugged the sensor in and removed it and the pin doesnt seems to have been pushed out of place so i think its happy as it is. i now realise that i should shorten the replacement wire as it is now too long and kinks. is soldering really best or can i crimp it with a 'butt' crimp?
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