russj249
-
Content Count
1,383 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
VR6OC News
Website Content
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Gallery
Store
Collections
Community Map
Everything posted by russj249
-
That's the only benefit! Not worth paying stupidly more money for an extra few cc's IMO! Are they really that much more for an R32 engine never really looked at them for sale before, wouldn't have thought they'd be too much difference in price. That's it then.. 24v it is, save the money from buying an R32 engine, and buy supercharger instead
-
If you're going to do a complete engine swap with loom etc out of a mk4, why not stick an R32 engine in instead? Maybe a bit more to buy, but a bit more power and sounds better when you tell people what it is
-
Bit of an update! After work tonight, I decided to try the only combination that I didn't try... I put My dirty old cone air filter inside the engine bay along with the air flow meter directly onto that, I started it up and it ran a tiny bit lean, however a few seconds later, it corrected itself... I can report a massive difference without the 90 degree elbow... Much better throttle response, Better idle Better gear change Much better revs and more stable AFR coasting at a constant speed And a hell of a lot quicker! I think basically the air flow meter is getting a constant readout all of the
-
-
It wouldn't no, it would only work if you use a 24v bottom end too. Its been covered on here a few times before. there is a difference in the oil galleries, head mountings and the timing chains. I Would imagine the 24v pistons would have a different crown to the 12v,
-
No need for that.. I would guess there's a lack of 'rat look' Audi A7's, so maybe the vr6oc could be the first!
-
Sorry yea I forgot to mention I have a 4 inch maf housing too.. but yea I agree that that filter directs the air around the maf, so when I put the mushroom filter on that focus's the air in the center, it throws everything miles out. Cams and remap I think is the only option
-
Normally it has a vibration under the pedal, you can sometimes hear the relay buzzing in the footwell.. never got mine to kick in though even on wet roads, only on snow really. However now all the time cuz I got a sensor problem
-
I have thought about making some sort of undertray to stop it, but I don't think that's actually fixing the problem, just covering it up a bit. I did actually manage to buy a HKS mushroom foam filter, and fitted it inside the engine bay, unfortunately, it ran crap. The gauge was reading between 16 to 18 on idle and had no throttle response at all. I then tried moving it back into the wing, so that the the 90 degree elbow was back in, incase it was that which is throwing the fueling out. So, when I out it back as it was, but with the mushroom filter on itstead, it still ran terrible.. I have co
-
I know the only reason its there is because it wouldnt map when it was in the engine bay before the 90' elbow. Nicked a brand new MAF off a Corrado that was is at Stealth at the time and did exactly the same with that one. Yes I would love it to be in the engine bay, but I'm not sure if it will work. I suppose now its all mapped, it might not hurt it too much if I move it some what. I could try it in the engine bay now its mapped and see what happens. I will have to do some very careful and moniter the AFR gauge at all times though. It would be good if I knew how to get 'LogWorks' up and run
-
Fixed the problem! have put a link up now rather than img codes.
-
Hope these pics work so that you get an idea of how things are run.
-
Can some fellow turboers spill the beans on 4 inch neck air filters! Basically I run 4 inch pipe straight from turbo, to a 90 degree bend that goes down through where the charcoal cannister would be. Then straight onto tho I have a 4 inch MAF housing facing downwards and the the filter on that! I can't move the MAF before the elbow as I suffer with turbulence in the pipework, as found out by Vince at Stealth when it came to mapping. This means I only have a very short room for air filter. At the mo I have a cheap universal one, that I think is 160 x 160mm, with a 102mm neck, which is K&N s
-
And the half plastic plug is a cut out for the rocker.cover gasket. I wouldn't worry too much unless its leaking a lot, but up to you whether you change it.
-
Looks like your thermostat housing in leaking.See in the picture, just above where you put the penny, there's that plastic housing with all the water pipes goin to it, and those sensors going to it. Have a feel.underneath there, or get a mirror underneath with a light ans have a good look about.
-
The sunroof drain holes are towards the front of the car, on each corner when the sunroof is open. The drain is in the door shuts, there are two little rubber bung things, one each side. Poke a wire or something in there and see if anything comes out. Alternately, being very careful you can get an air line on a blower and blow top to bottom. All the gunk will come out and all the water, just make sure that you don't put too much pressure down it.. The roof strips don't have a drain, the drain for these is basically down the side of the windscreen and into the boot run off bits. Another thing
-
Vince mapped my OBD1 coilpack turbo.. was a few little issues but managed to sort them out no problem.. and yes as already said, OBD2's do map better, just a little more responsive and quicker management so works that little bit better.
-
Oh, and same leads, however will pay more for OBD1 with dizzy as there's an extra lead from dizzy to the coil. OBD1 with coil however are the same as OBD2
-
I bought some cheap ones for 65 off eBay a few years ago, worked ok, but lasted around 6 months. Wrecked a few of them simply by changing spark plugs, cheap quality that I wouldn't recommend to anyone. I have no experience with the dup power ones, however they seem too cheap, but need someone who's tried them. From personal experience, go for something good brand to start with. Either go genuine or with someone like Magnacore. I have Magnacore on mine and the quality feels brilliant. Been on ans off so many times and still fit like new.
-
Also swap front tyres to rear, this will rule out any imperfections in the tyre that could cause it. If the noise is still there, its definitely on the front setup, if it moves to the back its the tyre.
-
From what you have said I would also say wheel bearing or cv joint maybe, I had the same rotational click which was wheel bearing.
-
leak on passenger side footwell vr6 - UPDATED 18.00PM
russj249 replied to paceo's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Beat me to it! lol -
leak on passenger side footwell vr6 - UPDATED 18.00PM
russj249 replied to paceo's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
First things to check are sunroof drain holes. Open up the sunroof and have a look towards the front of the car, 2 little holes can block up easy. they come out in the door shuts, so open up the doors and make sure the little rubber things are dirt free. Maybe get an air line down and gently blow through. Also just check door seals for any splits etc -
I use my mig welder as hot as it will go without blowing holes, that way you get a good penetration.. I have used both gas and gasless welders, and set up exactly the same on 2 machines, the gasless one was crap in comparison.. the gas is much much easier and neater, I was told it was something to do with their being a flux or something built into the gasless wire. And for 3.5mm steel, I would have my gas mig set on full power (also a Clarke 90) model and with wire speed somewhere between 4 and 4.5. If youre just starting out welding, there is one massive massive thing I would suggest anyone t
-
Yea its normal, if you loose the cat you loose a lot of back pressure.. you might notice it popping a lot more on overrun. Also I noticed that you seem to loose a little amount of torque unless other mods are tuned to suit.
