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matty.vrt

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Everything posted by matty.vrt

  1. Car looks super clean, lots of attention to detail a real credit to you.
  2. All the cars look really good, such a shame I could not make it. Maybe next time.
  3. Downpipe mid construction. Turbo exit is 4" v band into 2x 3" down pipes which with a little man maths I estimate to flow as well as a single 5".
  4. Thanks for the encouragement, it has taken over a year just to get to this point. Hopefully it will start coming together soon.
  5. I then sourced a Golf mk4 R32 engine block as the mk5 BUB engine im using has a cast crank that will not cope with the planned power output. The BUB block was then sent off to be honed from 84mm to 84.5 as cylinder no 3 had a score mark from detonation in its past supercharged life, despite only having done 34,000 miles. I then test fitted the crank girdle, only to find that it would not sit level due to a bit of exess casting on one of the main caps The cap was soon ground down and we where back in business. VW R36 main bearing arrived not the most
  6. Hi all, I have been a member on here now for over 8 years now. I have learned lots from different members on here, from my first supercharger build to my last turbo build this site has been an invaluable source of information. My intention has always been to write a build thread to help inspire others as I have been inspired from reading many build threads on here. Anyway here is my project car. Its a 2000 W reg 2.8 24v 4 motion with 18x8J Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's With plans for big power in the future I decided to upgrade the seats to save weight
  7. There's a lot of science behind intake manifolds and runner length, plenum volume etc.. So I prefer to talk from experience as I have no qualifications in engineering or flow dynamics. On my old VRT I ran a HGP style bottom entry from hubrennertechnik and it made more power than stock as I was impatient and fitted it first. Later I ran a SPturbo one and that worked really well too. The stock manifold is less than ideal both in its placing for piping and soaking up heat from the engine.
  8. Most people use 440's or 630's as there C2/ UM tune means they have too. Like RBPE said I would use the 630's the lower duty cycle and better atomisation puts them streets ahead of 440's. I've ran up to 576 crank and still had some head room at 3 bar base pressure.
  9. I have ran 11psi on my turbo'd setup without a decomp plate, so with the pressure losses you are experiencing I think you would be ok.
  10. I know the feeling, mine made 270bhp with stage 2 pulley and 268 cams but drove great. 12psi pulley should see 320bhp from what I've seen.
  11. Yeh, spill the beans? I never went further than stage 2 with my vortech, interested in knowing the gains the charge cooler and other bits have added.
  12. Wow you sure ain't messing about there then. That said it is still good to start with a low boost and work your way up. 7 psi will feel fast to begin with but once you run 14 psi you will never go back to 7. Then you will want more so you run 20psi and then you want more so you will end up running 26psi lol.
  13. I went with a 7psi Spring on mine to begin with. This meant I could get it all setup and working without having to upgrade the fuel pump, clutch and lowering the compression. The net result was 300bhp on a motor that had done over 150,000 miles. Later when I fitted a clutch, head spacer and pump I kept the 7psi Spring in and raised the boost with a Electronic boost controller, running closed loop boost control over wastegates Spring pressure will help spool the turbo and make peak boost faster.
  14. That is the one Logan. I'm sure ATP did a downpipe for your LHD car, and the price was pretty reasonable too.
  15. Realstreet Performance in the US are good too, that's where I got my GTX from.
  16. 215 is the minimum recommended width for a 8j rim and worked really well for me. 205 would physically fit and would give that show car stretched look. Performance would obviously be compromised slightly but really it's all down to taste.
  17. Did this ever sell? Just noticed you don't live far from me.
  18. Welcome to the club. Nice looking mk4 you have there.
  19. No you want the T3 version. May I recommend an authorised Garrett dealer like Owen Developments or ATP Turbo. It is so easy to get fleeced with a fake it's just not worth trying to save a few quid.
  20. GT3582r with .82 is an excellent turbo my first VRT made 576bhp with 26psi. I used £80 ATP Ebay clone manifold and it worked a treat.
  21. See there's lots of options for around £700. I think it's worth spending some time talking to different vendors and deciding what solution works best for you. When I was looking I made a list of what features I wanted/ need, then look for a ecu that has them all.
  22. £695 all in sounds reasonable for a budget build. Another couple that may be worth considering is Adaptronic from EFI parts, that's what Lee is using on his 1200bhp R32T Jetta or EMU Ecu Master from Don Octane in Germany he is running that on his 1xxx polo R32T.
  23. I had emerald K3 on my old VRT and I was not impressed at all. I would recommend Syvecs S6, AEM or Haltech as there all feature rich and come with excellent support. Andy at Storm Delevompents quoted me £2400 supplied, fitted and mapped for the Syvecs S6 which is a killer option if you don't want to do it yourself.
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