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james4287

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Everything posted by james4287

  1. james4287
    i've been putting mine off ever since i've had the car. how hard is it? are clips and bolts and shit likely to break?
  2. james4287
    mine wouldn't run properly on 10/40 magnetec when cold, used to stall and then wouldn't start as it was holding the lifters open. switched to 5w/40 and now have no problems. however, mine is sounding a bit tappety so i'm wondering 5w/40 magnetec? currently on 80k
  3. james4287
    how often should gearbox oil be replaced?
  4. james4287
    my '96 vr6 has no fuel light, and heated mirrors but they don't work!
  5. james4287
    what grade oil you using? see this thread: http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?185177.50
  6. james4287
    i have the same problem, wheres the dry joints? how does the conector come apart? i have a new maf so don't think it's that/ but the fault is so intermittant and random it's hard to track down.
  7. james4287
    UPDATE: traced it to a loose connector on the fusebox, been fine ever since, touchwood!
  8. james4287
    ran vag-com no fault codes for engine or immobiliser. tried it many many times since but it's still starting no problem. checked over the ignition switch wiring today and traced the red and black wire which goes to my alarm and the other part comes out the alarm into the fusebox. the alarm wiring is all soldered and not bodged so i don't think it's an alarm fault. the only thing is the night it broke it was a warm dy/evenning and my g/f was cold in the car so had the heater on for a few hours driving, i'm wondering if the extreme heat had "openned" a dry joint in the fusebox???
  9. james4287
    a new igniton switch is just that, a switch. can be bought off ebay for under £10 new but a bit of a arse to fit.
  10. james4287
    try cleaning the earths under the battery. i had reoccurring fault codes with 02 senser and maf. touch wood cleaning these earths cured it.
  11. james4287
    Right i have a 96 obd2 vr6 that has tonight decided not to crank. yet when i gave the exciter wire on the starter a feed it turned over and started instantly. So i'm thinking it's not a starter problem, i've visually checked the wiring where it goes back into the main loom and all looks ok, termianl in starter motor is also ok. I wiggled the key every witch way possible but this made no difference, and i fitted a new ignition switch last year so i'm ruling that out. Howver, once running and home with the exciter reconnected it firse up first time every time, so i removed each relay in turn to
  12. james4287
    is there anywhere on the mk3 i can pick a live up from the fusebox? cos thats what my mate did on his mk4 and it'd be alot easier of i could do that on my 1996 vr6!
  13. james4287
    no, still getting mass air flow senser code intermittantly. i.e. aftef a few hundred miles it will come back. i'm thinking dry joint in the ecu, so am going to keep a closer eye on it over winter as in theory with expected colder temps will make the joints contract which maybe the cause of the fault code?
  14. james4287

    diesel 5th

    james4287 replied to clarkie's topic in Transmission

    possibly a daft question but will that then take forever to accelerate in 5th? will i be constanlty selecting 4th to ovetrake etc?
  15. james4287
    i've got a soft sounding dull tapping noise comming from my obd2 vr6 at idle speed. But when i press the clutch pedel it goes. also if you can imagine an engine mount loose then rattling about when you switch the engine off? it makes that noise too, but foot on the clutch it doesn't. it not a load noise either, neither of them, if the heater fan or radio is on you can't here them. what do we reckon ?
  16. james4287
    mine was about £75 iirc from tps
  17. james4287
    i put castrol 10/40 in and it used to stall when cold and not start again. 5/40 it runs like a dream
  18. james4287
    ahh i see, thats ok then, just needed peace of mind!
  19. james4287
    i know it's a daft question and when i replaced it yesterday i put the new one i the same as how the old one went, with the little black bits facing downwards into the plastic cup. but the more i've thought about it i've wondered should it go the other way?
  20. james4287
    not really, everything came off pretty easily, my main problem was i didn't have the right sized bolt to slacken off the tensioner so robbed one from the missus clio gearbox!
  21. james4287
    does this work? mates polo has the jets that splatter the water on the screen, like the mk4 golf, they look the same as mk3 golf jets but anyone done this before, do they fit ok?
  22. james4287
    5s/40
  23. james4287
    sorted it tonight! i undid the front mount, one of the 13mm nuts sheared off, but it don't seem to do much anyway so no loss with that not fitted. undid the rear mount aswell, as i thought it might be hydraulic and may split to best to undo it! not running yet though as the tensioner is nosiey but i've repacked it with grease so tomorrow it should be running again! i got a mk3 pump from vw, it has plastic vanes like the original, i figure it's lasted 70k miles so new one should last a while yet!
  24. james4287
    just done this to mine, it's really quite easy!
  25. james4287
    driving home tonight and the coolant light flashed on, theres coolant all on the floor around the waterpump and over the splash gaurd so i'm thinking water pump, the big plastic pipe behind the pump has already been replaced. i've done a search and read stories of engine out job and others jacking the engine up, how hard is it to undo the engine mounts? i also read that a mk4 pump is the way to go? chances are my local vw dealer won't have a mk3 one in stock but will probs have a mk4 one, is it r32 or 4motion? is it a straight fit? any helps/advice/tips most appreciated!
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