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finny

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Everything posted by finny

  1. Bungy, Did you renew the 4 bolts on each side holding the trailing arm support bracket? Did you renew the bush retaining bolt? Any need to make a bush puller tool? or did the polybushes slot in with 'ease'. Going to give this a go soon. Cheers
  2. Have you got an oversized spline you can whack into the recess of the rounded bolt? has worked for some but didn't for me. Not much access around there and the easiest thing/ only solution was to angle grind the one of the bolt heads (most accessible one) and then the actual carrier itself (for the other bolt due to lack of access). So you'll need a replacement carrier and new bolts of course if you go this route. Been there, feel your pain!
  3. Have you tried whacking in an oversized spline into the recess of the rounded bolt? has worked for some. I did the same as you, rounding off the bolt and the oversized spline trick didn't work for me. Not much access around there and the easiest thing/ only solution was to angle grind the carrier off. So you'll need a replacement carrier and new bolts of course if you go this route.
  4. Unmarked Focus STs Black, dark blue and orange Seen around Walton on Thames, Esher in Surrey and towards Staines, Middlesex.
  5. Passenger rear, drivers rear, passener front and then drivers front. Basically do brakes furthest away from master cylinder. Don't forget to check and keep topping up the brake fluid.
  6. Standard 15" alloys came with 205/50/15 and load index 86 Speed rating V.
  7. + 2 Check its plugged in correctly? no connecting pins bent. So flat cable from pump to ecu and the main ABS ecu block connector (which slides up and in and not pressed in). You did say you got your mechanic to remove, so I assume he refitted? Are you able to just unplugged and refit yourself? Failing that you may try and see if you can eliminate if its the actual ECU is still faulty ie try yours in another VR& that uses same pump and ecu part number & vice versa.
  8. There is a 'securing' nut that holds everything in place inc the rubber mount. The whole unit should be compressed enough, so the unit can be removed in situ if needed. The strut goes in the turret and then from top, the metal cup/ stop plate and then the 21mm nut. Sorry couldn't get anything useful or gauge depth of thread from your photo.
  9. We dropped the subframe and everything as couldn't get one of the front wishbone bolts out (connecting to the subframe). In the end no option but to remove the subframe and weld a nut to the stubbon bolt, massive breaker bar to crack it open, Subframe out meant rest of the replacement parts easier though (ball joints, tie rods etc). Got help on removing the u/j on the steering column. This was all done on the drive way.
  10. Don't think the standard spring has been compressed enough. There is a nut that holds the rubber mount in place and everything in place. So if this is correctly in place and spring compressed enough, there should be loads of thread left when doing the final 21mm nut from top of the engine bay/ suspension turret. From memory you'll need a 21mm offsett/ swan neck spanner for the final nut and 7mm allen key to stop the damper from turning as the nut is tightened.
  11. All relevant. Hope the fix works for you too.
  12. 3/16 SAE single flare is the brake line spec from what I can remember 11mm unions - nut size
  13. 11mm I found when loosing the unions during a brake hose change.
  14. finny

    Opinions

    Congrats on the baby nr 3. After our Baby Nr1 we got rid of our 4motion (boot way too small due to raised floor, we did have a massive M&P 3 wheeler though) and got a B5 Audi RS4. Had a Zafira GSi with Baby Nr 2. Once buggy was no longer needed, we went down to one car, the VR6. Looking for a 2nd car at the mo. VR will be just for local use/ project car. Tidy Audi S4 Avant (b5) would be nice.
  15. Yes, bag up the pump's pistons and use string/ cable ties to make sure the pistons underneath won't attract dirt/ water and bag up the ecu's loom connector. It was absolutely fine when I drove my car in this state for 2 or 3 days. But if you can avoid driving it I would, only beacuse you have 'tampered' with the car braking system. ie physically removed the ecu rather than its there as it should be but nevertheless faulty, if you see what I mean? I reckon send it 1st class Special delivery on say a Monday, arrives Tuesday and gets worked on, leaves overnight for ecu to be sealed up and chap
  16. Sky. 2Mb download, was at 0.8Mb at one point when we first joined sky after leaving previous supplier at 1.5Mb. (out in the sticks nearly) I suppose its what you are use to. Work is stupid fast, 70Mb (Central London)
  17. Your ABS issues were exactly the same as mine so from that, dry joint fix(es) is whats needed to your ECU. Your part nrs are also the same as mine and they are like rockin' horse doo doo. Going on previous prices (including the pump) when I was looking, I've seen £130+.....and don't forget this is for a 13/ 14yr 2nd hand ECU which there are no guarantees the same issues won't reappear sooner or later. So wouldn't bother really. You've done your research and if its guarantee you want, I would go with the firms offering this. cheers,
  18. Good man, don't want to hear any insurance company deciding not pay out considering how much time, money and scraped knuckles we all endure keeping our cars going and in tip top shape. I've just put those falkens (912?) on my car (205 width of course). 205s don't offer much rim protection, its very flush on my alloys. Looks good but I'll need to be extra careful with kerbs.
  19. If your discs, pads and bearinsg are fine, then just replace both rear calipers with Mk4 ones and get some conversion hoses. Goodridge sell these 'conversion' hoses. These gives you the banjo ends required instead of the screw in ones which Mk3 calipers use. Uses existing Mk3 carriers. My Mk4 calipers came with its own carriers, too much hassle to use as the existing metal brake shield needed cutting up to allow to fit.
  20. When one of my rear brake calipers seized, went for Mk4 calipers, just need new hoses to fit, but went whole hog changing discs, bearings etc. Believe there are large rear discs conversions but don't think its necessary unless for looks?
  21. My motorbike has wider tyres than 165! What ever you do, do inform your insurance company you have gone for smaller width tyres than standard. Don't want the insurance to have an excuse not to cover you as it wasn't declared when you fitted just a tiny bit less rubber on the road, if ever there was an accident claim.
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