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MaidenVR6

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Everything posted by MaidenVR6

  1. Stay away from this Ebay kits. If you dont have enough money to build the car with proper turbo parts, get a used Z Charger. Cheap, and realible. Why not see if you can buy turbo parts used? Its alot off goodies out there.
  2. If problems with a tight chain, see what kind off tensioner you have. Its a diffrence from OBD1 and 2. The obd2 tensioner works with 3mm 8:5:1 C2 spacer.
  3. I dont think you will feel any diffrense. Go for the 8.5:1 A 9:1 setup is great, but not optimal over 15-20 psi.
  4. You need to to this: Get your AFR measured. That is priority nr1 ! A tuning company should have this. Or buy one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+115&autoview=sku Then you see how rich or lean it runs. Then use VAG COM to see if you have any bad sensors. Delete all faults and check again. Then, you need to check your intercooling piping. Pressure test it. 25 psi I had a intercooler leak last summer, and the car ran like shit some times. I couldt find the problem, but after a pressure test we found it. I had a bad cam sensor as well. Car
  5. Thanx! Good that you say that Kevin, cause im not sure what route to use in the GT35 water line... Hoses are the easy way, but steel pipes are the best way? Lets see what we try. Not my biggest concern right now. Key word for March month is: Im broke:)
  6. Your C2Motorsports 8.5:1 headspacer was in the washing macine the last time I saw it. So yes, you can send me the money for it The guys at Motor teknikk had alot off goodies laying around in the shop. After the acid bath the block was like new. Like you took it from the factory. Everything incl oil is gone they told me. So this months word is: Im broke
  7. 02M mounts from C2 is ordered. DSS 02M axels are ordred. Inspection on my stock engine. It looked really good. After 3 years off boost, it looked good. Exept this crap, that was replced in 2004 Stock rods/pistons A small crack between to piston rings.. Picutre dont show it Stock head looked fine: Crank looked fine Block looked fine: Extra strong soap, before warm high pressure water Ok, I delivered the block, pistons, rods, bearings and the crank for rebuild. The block is going into a acid bath for 2 days, then painted black. Bore up from 81mm to 82.5mm. Then but the block togheter
  8. Keep it stock. Its not worth it. When people are running 600 whp VR6's on stock ECU and sensors, why bother?
  9. Good price.I just sold my .63 T04S for £400
  10. With your ZR1, a set of DRC 268's would kick some ass.
  11. You have a 63.hotside. And 400whp is not reachable. If they speak about WHP or crank HP in this forum, im not sure. But forget 400 whp on 15 psi on a stock VR6.
  12. The best on a ZR2 charger I had, was to mount it off. Use Synthetic engine oil. I used Mobil 1 sae 5-50w, and Castrol tws racing. Fill it up half full.
  13. 0.96 exhaust will be alot off fun! Just wait until 3800-4000 rpm hits... Your gearbox will work some overtime shifts at the factory:) Hope you have a LSD diff. If not, get one.
  14. Thanx! The Golf is making 0 bhp right now. Engine is out. Gonna rebuild it, and run a C2 630cc modul on it. http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?171321
  15. Summer of 2008 with a SQS/Peloquin 02A gearbox.
  16. Engine bay... Small clip: OZ Mitos anno 2009: My old Corrado VR6, back in 2001 or 2002..
  17. Here are some pics from 2007 and up til now.
  18. I had a VW Motorsport VSR manifold on a Corrado VR6 in 2002. It did make more power, but NOT worth the money! For £850 you can get alot off more fun. Your stock manifold is not that bad. Get a 2.9 manifold, and some 268 DRC cams instead
  19. 10psi is no problem without a spacer. Your VR6 engine is 2800ccm, not 2000ccm like a Cossie. So a cossie turbo will not work that well on the high revs. It will choke. Buy a cheap Garrett T series turbo with AT LEAST a AR70 exhaust house.
  20. I see. Im gonna fix it. Oil feed line was a little tight as well. Gonna get a 45 degrees bend there.
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