rigs
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Everything posted by rigs
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"I can't be arsed, you do it for me?" *clap*
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A friend has a very similar turbo and is currently running a non-intercooled setup with good results. 6psi should be doable on standard compression... I know they had some difficulty going much over that. He's now running 8:1 compression... still not cooled and running 10psi. I have a similar turbo on mine... It drives brilliantly. Makes 9psi by 2500rpm..., starts to boost from as low as 2000rpm. I'm reliably informed it'll hold a bar to the top.
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I only have a 5psi sping at present and it runs fine at that pressure. Boost controllers allow you to reliably double your spring rate. My spring is a 5psi spring but the controller allows me to run up to 10psi ish.
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Yeah... Hopefully it'll stop it ripping the syncro rear diff apart S'only 6 wires kev.... not that hard!
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I've been using Silkolene Pro S 15w-50. VW specify 10w-40 as a typical oil for the vr. The 40 bit is the operating temperature viscosity which is the important bit. 5w-40 will actually give you a healthier cold engine than 10w-40. Fully synth oils being thinner is a bit of a myth. Within the same grade they are by definition the same viscosity. Remember even 0w oil at room temperature is still vastly thicker than 40 grade oil at engine operating temperature. A decent oil will give the lowest possible w grade whilst maintaining the target main grade. "Fully synth" also doesn't make it better th
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Thanks for that mate thats jsut what I was wanting to hear/read I'm not wanting something crazy to start of with just something with a bit of potential Any chance you could post the spec your currently running? One thing I really dont have a clue about is the management side of things' date=' but C2 is a name that comes up alot. Can you manually adjust the boost while using the C2 software and still have decent fueling? Apologies for that sounding stupid :$ Ken [/quote'] Mine's all simple. Stock 2.8 bottom end with ARP rod bolts. Stock head, cams etc... with ARP head studs and C2 head spac
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Someones just told me I was wrong about the second pump so ignore me It just has the in-tank pump on a mk3
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Edit 'cos I'm a numpty!
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Mine? Not sure as yet. I'm only running 9psi at present... so 300-320 ish at a guess. It's plenty quick I get 9 psi @ 2500rpm. I'm reliably informed that the turbo will comfortably hold a bar pressure up to 6k odd so should make my target 400hp. Worth noting also about your pistons buying. I'm running stock internals (with ARP bolts) on a head spacer aquired through C2 and currently 100% without issue. People have mixed opinions on spacers but I know of quite a few cars using them without problem running the sort of power we're talking about. I'm certainly glad I haven't shelled out for £10
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I'm running an old fashioned T3/4 on a 2.8. Good for 400hp and it boosts up at 2000rpm. It almost feels like a normal VR it's so progressive... Just a tad quicker
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Get someone to vagcom it... best place to start.
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OBD2 is just generally better. Best bit of OBD2 is the vastly improved knock control... it allows you to safely advance the ignition more giving more power. Benefits on FI cars are even greater afaik.
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OBD2 2.9s also exist and generate more power still but are rare as hell! Only available from a euro 2.9 syncro afaik.
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Dunno to be honest... Got solid engine mounts too so it bounces and bumps rather alot anyway
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Is the tapping louder when the car is cold? Re: the power loss.. probably in your head but you could get someone with a vagcom lead etc... to see if it's happy.
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I'd say 800hp, drag slicks and custom gearboxes are fairly removed from the sort of cars they are asking about We were on a 3.9 FD, no diff and road tyres so traction was our biggest problem.
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Not essential but there for good reason. Put it on.
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Yeas Powerstation have facilites for 2 and 4 wheel drive cars I'll stick you on the list please let me know if you cannot make it I *might* pop in Will know nearer the date....
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Have you tried a known working MAF? I certain I've heard people muttering about MAFs dying if they are run the wrong way round?!?!
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cooling issues probable headgasket (among other things)
rigs replied to jimredmk2's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Hmm...... *shrug* The radiator temperature switch is on the passenger side (on rhd) of the radiator about halfway up - large hex fitting with a 3 or 4 pin lead attached to it. -
Erm.... cam cover leaking? You'd be able to see oil somewhere if it were though...
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Are the rollers syncro friendly? I might pop along for a giggle even though the car isn't quite right yet...
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Assuming the flywheel has enough meat left on it not to break its down to preference. Main benefit of heavier flywheel is clutch work on the road... standing starts are lazier and easier with more weight.
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Definately. Making the engine feel more lively is the main difference they make. Fast gear changes are smoother as there's less turning mass in the engine and revs equalise faster. Also, when braking and changing down rev equalisation on the clutch is faster and smoother or if you're a heal & tow fan it only takes a little blip of the throttle to send the revs racing. One of the best mods we did to our vr6 track toy...