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IbiVR

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Everything posted by IbiVR

  1. IbiVR
    It does go in easy enough, but tbh its a more expensive option than the vr, and isnt as good an engine imo, so would be better and defo cheaper just sticking with the vr... Having said that i know a couple of people with 20vt mk3's and they go v well, and its nice to have some variety in your life.. Also i may be wrong, but i think the vrs uses an 02J box, which mounts pretty much the same as the 02A VR boxes. theres a couple of differences, but its not the struggle you get if you try and put an 02m in there. Tom.
  2. IbiVR
    I think you should have a 3 bar reg in there, looks like your running more like 4, but i wouldnt trim it down to far on my say so unless its not runnign right - wideband is defo best bet. When you at idle you have about 18inHG of vacuum, which is about 1 bar. as the reg is affected by vacuum/boost, it'll be pulling the fuel pressure down. If you pull the vac line off at idle, you'll get a closer idea of what the unadjusted fuel pressure is. Ie a stock 4 bar reg will be giving you just over 3 bar at idle because of the vacuum. Tom.
  3. IbiVR
    Stock FPR's are fixed rate, they increase the fuel pressure with air pressure at a 1:1 ratio. It works on vacuum, thats why theres a little hose that comes off the top of it into the inlet manifold. Inside the FPR is a diaphragm with a valve. At idle when engine vacuum is high, it opens the valve lowering fuel pressure. At higher RPM's when engine vacuum is low, the valve closes increasing fuel pressure. Your in the USA? There are some odditys with which FPR goes on what VR6 in what country, You tend to run a slightly higher FP over there for OBD1, but I ~think your OBD2 US vr should run a 3
  4. IbiVR
    Keep it 3" for as long as you can after the turbo, so use the 3" cat and then step down. That should be fine for a reasonable power level. Tom.
  5. IbiVR
    2.25 will be ok for turbo unless your going for big power. You should get 10psi easily enough with that. Enough for say 300-330hp. You'd probably get more, but all depends what turbo is used. When you put the turbo on though go for a 3" downpipe and step it down near the first box/cat. Tom.
  6. IbiVR
    Yep, as above its OBD1 Tom.
  7. IbiVR
  8. IbiVR
    Yo, Sorry not been on for ages - (new site is nice btw). I'm reeaaly busy with work at the mo. I dont think i'm gonna have time to pursue this much further. Certainly I think the brackets not going to happen, which is a shame cos i dont like the gruven one. Glad to see some of you are cracking on with this - I do think its a worthwhile mod, although through the extensive testing we've done I'm not happy enough about the reliability of the coils to put my name to a full package. (that said - i still run it and will continue to do so, just keep your stock pack and leads in your boot to get you
  9. IbiVR
  10. IbiVR
    Do you have any other symptoms? Oil in the water could be your oil cooler. Its an oil/water heat exchanger and is prone to failure. Worth checking. No thermostat will make it take longer to get up to temp, but wont stop it getting hotter - it'd still overheat if it was going to. If it is the gasket then its worth doing, if you get another engine then you may well find yourself in the same postion again. And it will be ALOT more than £600 if your not fitting it yourself. Cheers, Tom.
  11. IbiVR
    pump, fuel lines, rear beam, brakes, suspension, exhaust, front panel, pedal box, rad, fans, header tank, hoses, clocks etcetcetc Would be a mission, and if you do it yourself your still gonna be looking at £1k+, you could pick up an L reg VR for £500.... As others said - dont do it! But, welcome to the forum! Tom.
  12. IbiVR
    V nice. I love caddys. Tom.
  13. IbiVR
    Yes it is possible, though getting a smooth transition will be difficult. Its possible, Trendy Tramps mk2 20vt did it, and of course vw do it with the golf GT. wont be cheap though, but defo different. Tom.
  14. IbiVR
    Hi I'm back!, sorry been away ages. V busy with other stuff at the mo, but still working on this. We have been doing extensive testing, and the upshot is, the standrd ignition amp is just not good enough for the msd coils. Problems from burnt out coils, ICM's themselves and spark plug electrodes wearing away. As above the ballast resistor helps but isnt a great fix tbh. We have developed out own ignition amp, and this is currently in testing, and proving a much more reliable option. Also means you dont need to incorporate the stock coilback back into the new bracket and makes for a much neater
  15. IbiVR
    Been V busy but working on it. Yes Gary, got your address, not sent them yet though.... i'll get round to it honest! Yes you should add a resistor or theres no current limiting otherwise and you'd burn out your coild pretty quickly. We have made our own ignition amp, so you dont need to use the original one on the backplate of the stock coilpack. This makes things alot neater, and also elimiates the need to use parts of your old pack. Just got this testing and we'll be ready! Kev - Yes with DTA you can run the coils direct. Turn on the internal amps in the software and you should be away. Chec
  16. IbiVR
    Yes, but hone the bores. You can buy a de-glazer/honer tool from halfrauds that'll do the job, get rid of the shine and a nice new pattern on the bores - will take about 4/5mins on each bore, clean them out complelty, give them a wipe with fresh oil, gap the rings, and your off. Dont get me wrong - i'm not saying you need new rings to turbo an old engine. My first VRT i bolted it straight on to an 80k engine with just a spacer, no probs. Just if you are building a brand new engine then its best to bed the rings in as they will be used to get the best out the engine. I wouldnt for one minute s
  17. IbiVR
    Re the "Manufactures guidlines". this really is just to cover themselvs. On a new engine if somethings goona let go due to manufacturing prob it'll most likely do it in the first few 100 miles. This is less dangerous (and expensve for them) if its done at lower rpm and speed. Bear in mind all engines will be tested in the factory - the normal way is to increse revs in steps every 10 secs or so. Your brand new gotta-be-run-in-gently engine has most likely been on the limiter in the factory for at least 10 secs with 0 miles on it.... Tom.
  18. IbiVR
  19. IbiVR

    turbo

    IbiVR replied to clarkie's topic in Engine Tuning

    No its not complete, and it wont fit. Turbo is a good spec, unbranded though so not worth alot. Tom.
  20. IbiVR
    oo, nasty. Any idea what caused that, how many miles on it etc? Thans for the info Kev, We will now also offer a slightly softer mount more akin to VT's fast road spec. Front mounts we'll be getting on with soon, followed by the gearbox mounts. Thanks all, Tom.
  21. IbiVR
    The bottom section of the mount is designed for loading of 2 tons so is fine - Way over the OEM spec. nearly 20k of 500bhp miles on mine now - holding up just fine You should retain the heatshield that covers the OE mount, if not then the heat could be affecting the rubber on the VT ones? As I said before, If I was just changing one mount it would be a stiffer rear, which is why we have started with this one. For those replacing all of them then we can do a softer version of the rear mount to compliment a stiffer front if you wish. Rears will be ready V soon and I'll now offer a softer versio
  22. IbiVR
    Nice one Kev, glad its all coming together. This is the 3.0 built engine your running now? Hopefully with that turbo you shouldnt find traction to be too much of a problem, as the boost should be coming in nice and progressivly. Get some pics up! Re. the manifold, I've fitted loads of these and sold more, and not had that problem before. I would have appreciated you contacting me first and I could have swapped it for another. Tom.
  23. IbiVR
    Best plugs for a FI VR are bog standard, but cold, NGK BKR6E for about 350 bhp, more than that go for BKR7E. Gap em to about .025" You can get em for about £3 each. Tom.
  24. IbiVR
    Ours is more similar to Vibratechs competition mounts. Not bad pricing on that quote RCF, they've dropped them a touch. Ours is still cheaper mind, and we include bolts and delivery If I was just changing 1 mount, it'd be a stiff rear mount and leave the others stock - its what I do so its where we started. We are also working on the front mount to - it'll be in the region of £70-80. Thanks for the interest again - rear mounts available V soon, front mounts i'll keep you informed.. Tom.
  25. IbiVR
    Heres something else we have been playing with - An uprated rear engine mount. Not a new idea, uprated mounts are currently available from Vibratechnics etc, but are £100+ This one is a little more economical. Heres the original rubber VW mount: Our uprated, stiffer mount: The new mount is stiffer and more solid that the VW one. It stops the engine moving around so much. This puts all the torque to the wheels and doesnt waste some moving the engine. Extra power and torque produced by uprated and transplanted engines wont destroy the mount like they can with stock ones. Also for SC and Tu
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