IbiVR
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Yep first test was the NA VR in the pics. This is the one Gary witnessed, and its still running them for some durability testing. Also testing on the turbo now too. Tom.
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Great response - thanks guys - we'll get on with doing the bracket! Not done a RR test yet. That aside it idles better, no hesitation when you floor it from lower revs, and generally smoother. On FI, spark plug gaps have to be very tight or the boost blows out the spark. With the Higher spec coil you get a stronger spark for the same dwell period, so can open up the gap and get better igniton. This means the mixture ignites better and quicker, so there should be a noticable increase in power, and also it'll take less fuel to get there. Have to get some RR comparisons done. Tom.
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RussVR6: Kit wise your a bit stuffed with RHD cars. I really woudnt use that ebay one althouh it is cheap - there a reason for it. TBH theres not a huge diff in what you need for 6 psi/ 15 psi, so less boost doesnt necesarily mean cheaper. If you only want low boost you could not touch compression, dont intercool. I wouldnt reccomend it, but then al you need is wastegate, turbo, manifold, dv, injectors, downpipe and a bit of inlet piping, and map. To be totally honest - for the power you'll get at a low boost kit (6psi for stock compression will get you around 270bhp) SC might be a better opti
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We have been playing around with alternatives to the stock coilpack. As you all know its a bit of a weak spot on the VR, the plastic caseing cracks and leads to missfires etc. Its a 1 peice unit so you loose 1 coil and you need to replace the lot for £100+ The alternative is to run 3 seperate twin pole coils. The advantages of this are if one does break down, you can replace it individually for alot less cost. Also you get a much better spark - in the region of 40Kv as opposed to the 10-12KV standard. We have found that this coilpack option runs smoother, is more responsive, and on average r
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Original clutch just wont last with turbo power. you can build a 350-400bhp turbo vr for 2k if you do it yourself. Although chains will need doing really, and a diff would be nice. Any help or info just pm me and i'll help out where i can. Tom.
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Heres one of mine - this is before it was turbo. No exhuast as such, 3" straight through with 2 resonators just to take the edge off it. Couldnt live with it everyday, but it was made to let 600bhp+ out, cant do that all that quietly.... http://www.btinternet.com/~tommyw/Stuff/flyby.wmv Not got any here of it turboed, will have to sort that. Bit quieter, more burbly and, well, turboey. Tom.
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Yes. EIP use Ross pistons. Look at JE' date=' Wiseco, Wossner. There was a set of Wossner 83mm on ebay a while back. Cos they'll charge you about £2k. Tom.
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116k is fine, so long as its helathy at the moment it should be fine. Change chains/guides and it'll should be fine. Clutch is no good for FI even new - it might last a while depending what power your on, but worth changing it while the box is off to do the chains, gearbox is ok up 400bhp ish, over that its fine but if your boost come in hard then you might strip 3rd or 4th gear at some point. Driveshafts same really - i've seen them twist and rip out of the inner cv's but thats on a fair bit of power. Tom.
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Stick it all back in and just turbo it Seems an odd choice of car to lighten.. Depends how far you want to go. Strip out carpet, get rid of seats and get lightweight buckets, take off all door cards, remove dash, loose glass and put in polycarbonate windows. that lot should get you about 60-70 kilos. Tom.
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Excellent. Those afr's are nice and safe. I wouldnt go over 12 at WOT, part throttle 12-13, and a nice idle at 14. Same as you - fuel is cheap, valves/pistons are not! Tom.
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Glad its up and running kev and your happy with the smoothness etc - not a bad choice of turbo then... Interesting to hear the comparison to the SC. Happy you made the decision to go turbo then? What sort of AFR's are you seeing at part throttle/boost? Anyway glad you happy! Tom.
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Get one of a late Sharan VR6. I think its 021 103 383 N. Should cost you about £50. Tom.
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Up to 400bhp (1 bar ish) stock internals are fine. Use a spacer as above for anything over 6psi imo. Over 400hp then use ARP hardware - stock rods are good for 600bhp with ARP rod bolts. Over that you need to start spending money on pistons/rods, and if your doing that then ditch the spacer and lower the compression in the pistons. Tom.
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Thanks. Cant wait to get stuck into this one. Not going to be quick project as i'm getting all OCD about it, but will start on it soon. PHM: Loving that Lhasa Green. Tom.
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Yep that turbo's ideal, just change the exhaust housing on the options. .48 is way to small, .63 good for daily but boost will tail off a little at the top - should still give you 350 though, .82 if you can live with a little more lag and are after more top end power. I wouldnt buy a turbo in uk, too expensive. be aware you will get stung 20% for vat and duty on import, also kinetic dont ship internationaly - you need a freindly mate in the US to forward it. yeah 1 bar = 15psi (ish) You could use aquamist i spose, personally dont really like it, but yeah its a good way to get more power - your
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Aim for 1 bar. Its a good amount, nice roun figure, and depending on build will get you 350-400bhp. Yep go with 4" maf. 440cc injectors will give you all the fuel you need Turbo depends on budget. t3/t04e is a good one, get a midsize housing - 0.63 for daily driver, 0.82 for more top end power but a bit more lag. 57 trim wheel. a proper garrat will cost around 450, cheaper ones are available depends what you want to pay. Turbonetics are good - they do that same spec turbo for i think $900 so similar cost to the garret. If you have more money you could get the GT alternative - GT30R, will spool
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you can mate it up no problem. Mine is a 3" stright through system, but you can mate it to a std fitment system (although i wouldnt reccomened a stock vr exhaust).. Once the exhasust gas has travelled a couple of feet its slowed down a fair bit. Bigger is better, but a 2.25 system will still flow enough for good power. Tom.
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Just dug out some pics of my Mk1 for a thread on another forum, so thought i'd post them here. This is next years project really, but i thought i'd make a start with these pics. Totally stock as it was the first 5 years i had it: 2003's make over, single light grill / BBS RM's, 280mm brakes on front, rear disc conversion, supersprint exhaust, dropped 30mm and 2l 16v conversion with original 1600 box (sorry if pics are a little large): Off the road again for the latest facelift - full respray, remove the bbs spoiler at the back, and 2.9 vr conversion. Surprisingly going non turbo in this on
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MkIV steel head gasket - good or bad mod on a mkIII vr golf?
IbiVR replied to matth76's topic in Engine Tuning
There are a couple of types, UK spec mk4 generation vr metal gasket I think is 021 103 383 N. Normal Headgasket for a mk3 is the paper one. The metal 3 layer ones are thinner so give the increase in compression. £5 is a bargain. Dealer price is around £50. Tom. -
Vince at stealth has had trouble mapping some cars with a maf, in these cases he has removed it and mapped round it. Its not so much better performance, more that it didnt run right with it. In these cases he's had some success and its got the car going with good results. Trouble is the MAF is the indication of load on the engine. The map he does is right for that car under those conditions (temp etc). Theres enough in it to adapt to an extent. Thing is with turbo cars if you want more boost you can have it, sc is more tricky. If you have no MAF the ecu doesnt know about any changes to your en
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Why ditch the maf? i dont get it. Tom.
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I wouldnt recomend a mafless setup unless you go for a map based stand alone set up. Having said that some people on here run mafless setups with some success. MAF is the only way the ecu knows how much load its under. Tom.
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Twin piston ones are better as it stops them sucking air in when not on boost, but will still dump air to atmos causing rich condition at gearchange/overun. Re-circ air is to go in after the maf, as it has already been metered once. Tom.
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MkIV steel head gasket - good or bad mod on a mkIII vr golf?
IbiVR replied to matth76's topic in Engine Tuning
This has been covered alot on here. If your changing head gasket stick a metal one in, but not worth doing just for the sake of it. You will gain a little as your raising the compression half a point, but its not really noticable. You'll have no problems with the 268's. 288's its a bit close. Tom.