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matth76

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Everything posted by matth76

  1. matth76
    Mine will be for sale in the very near future, I've decided its time to move on from the VR's!!! --------------- Are you not selling it with the car? How much would you be looking for it second hand and how long have you had it? Are any other parts required or is it a direct replacement of the stock inlet mani? PM if you like. Cheers mate.
  2. matth76
    Thanks for your replies. So it's the welds that normally break if not done correctly. I didn't know that. How can I tell if my welds on the stainless manifold were done on a tig welder... will they show up as a different colour as I know mine looks a purply darker colour around the welds.
  3. matth76
    Does anyone know if it's possible to 'just' have the shorter final drive fitted or do all the other gears in fact have to be replaced too with different ratios? I was hoping I would just need to pay an extra £200 and have a shorter final drive Is this true - do I need all the rest of the gearbox changed too if I want the shorter final drive? What does the shorter final drive actually mean and provide? Does it just mean 5th gear is more revvy but all the other gears are the same - or not?
  4. matth76
    If you're near Birmingham I'd check out Stealth Racing. They are one of the best in the country for VR's. They are just south of Birmingham. Well worth visiting.
  5. matth76

    unsure

    matth76 replied to a topic in General Chat

    I average 31mpg and I don't drive slowly As to what car you choose it depends on how much you have to spend. A very good VR can be picked up for between £3-4k. If you want to save money on mods look for one that has had some things done to it... will save you far more money ...and the car with the mods will be virtually the same price as a standard vr. Get one with uprated suspension and full service history and you can't go far wrong. Good luck.
  6. matth76
    A Shrick for 850? Blimey I'd be interested if he has more of these. Are they second hand? How many hours labour does it take to fit one?
  7. matth76
    Update: I was told by a vr specialist that I couldn't just go for a final drive. I would need 'all' different gears too. And then you need a diff. They said I couldn't just have a shorter ratio final drive which was a pity. I'm having my gear box out soon so thought it would be an ideal time to have a shorter 3.68 final drive fitted at the same time (for an extra £200). But apparently it's not possible without all the other gears being changed too. They reckoned..with the diff and all different gears upwards of 2k !! So I gave the 3.68 final drive a miss Be nice to have it though.
  8. matth76
    I thought so too. I'm having my gearbox out soon so I thought it would be an ideal opportunity to have a shorter final drive fitted at the same time (for an extra £200). But apparently you need all the other gears changed - can't just have the final drive on its own apparently. Bit of a pity.
  9. matth76
    A lot I bet. I was told by a vr specialist that I couldn't just go for a final drive. I would need 'all' different gears too. And then you need a diff. They said I couldn't just have a shorter ratio final drive which was a pity. They reckoned..with the diff and all different gears upwards of 2.5k !! So I gave the 3.68 final drive a miss Be nice to have it though.
  10. matth76
  11. matth76
    Thanks for your replies. I've already got a stainless steel exhaust manifold. Was just curious if there were any after market 6 branches made of the same material as the stock one, which is very strong due to it being cast iron, and also transfers heat better than steel. Would be more of a future mod (but only IF my current one does crack in a couple of years - which I've heard they are prone to). Hopefully it will be fine though. How long have people been running stainless steel ones on here? Mine wasn't cheap at £350 and is supposed to be good quality but then anything can happen. It
  12. matth76
    Hi Is the VSR 6 branch Exhaust Manifold made of stainless steel or is it made of cast iron? Are there any good quality aftermarket free flowing 6 branch exhaust manifolds (for a golf/corrado vr6) that are made of cast iron as opposed to thinner and weaker stainless steel? Cheers
  13. matth76
    If you do need to have the head off it's an ideal time to get a more free flowing 6-2-1 branch exhaust manifold... it's much easier to fit one if the head is off. They are normally made of stainless steel which can be prone to cracking if it's of cheap quality (so get a good quality one - a good quality one will normally be around 300-600 and check it has "flexi-joints"... very important, to keep it independent to engine movement which prevents cracking) and it's a good idea to have uprated engine mounts. Unfortunately I haven't seen anywhere that do stronger cast iron free flowing 6 branch
  14. matth76
    A 1997 golf vr6 will be an ODB2 meaning it has a different ECU. You may need other ECU parts to make your Vento (which I assume is ODB1 being 1994) compatible with the 97's odb2 engine. Others will confirm this.
  15. matth76
    Thanks. How much would the 3.68 final drive be (all necessary parts)? And is a longer 5th gear required for a 3.68? How much of a difference does a 3.68 make compared to the standard gearing (which I believe is 3.3)? Can a 3.68 final drive be used without the uprated diff? Also does a 3.68 final drive affect the speedometer in any way? Cheers
  16. matth76
    Thanks for your reply. I've done a bit of research about this and it seems it is a "final drive" that I need to shorten the gear ratios - either 3.68 or 3.94 (which is even shorter) and quite likely a longer fifth gear to compensate. From what I understand the parts required to get a 3.68 or 3.94 final drive are: crown wheel (ring gear) and the matching pinion shaft. What's the cost of these parts? If I ask The Phirm about this will they have a supplier who will supply these parts new or is there a particular manufacturer that will supply these? Is it easy to set up a longer 5th gear or wh
  17. matth76
    Ok... I'm going to be having my gearbox out fairly soon to have the timing chains done and wondered if I could take this opportunity to improve my gearbox in any way (ideally to get slightly shorter gearing)? I'm having a standard new OEM clutch which is apparently very good (better than an aftermarket item). The only one thing that I have found with my Golf VR6 (ODB2) (when it is running well) is that you really have to go down a gear each time to get the power going... which I assume is because it has fairly long gear ratios, unlike the Corrado which has better gearing and slightly shorter
  18. matth76
    Basically it's impossible unfortunately to remove the top chain without removing the gearbox - even if you take of the head of the engine. However timing chain rattle can sometimes be because you have a faulty top tensioner bolt (also called hydraulic tensioner bolt). If this is replaced it could fix the problem. This is because when the bolt becomes faulty it is not pressing the top tensioner hard enough into the chain making the chain become loose - hence the rattle. My recommendation is you get the bolt replaced or looked at... by a good specialist. Could save you a lot of money. Cheer
  19. matth76
    How much does a ported throttle body (for an ODB2 2.8) cost from Mr Alpina? Sounds like something I'd also be interested in Is there a certain limit in butterfly size you can have for an ODB2 2.8 Golf? Is 68mm the optimum?
  20. matth76
    Cheers. Any guide on price for VF uprated engine mounts and time to fit all three?
  21. matth76
    Hi I've recently had a new 6 branch stainless steel exhaust manifold fitted to my Golf VR6. It has good flexi joints apparently which keeps it independent to engine movement. But just to be safe I'd like to uprate my existing standard engine mounts with something much tougher which will keep engine movement to an absolute minimum. I've heard of Vibratechnics. Are there any other good makes? How many of the mounts need uprating - is it only really the front and rear? How much would it cost for two vibratechnics for example? And more importantly how many hours does it take a garage to fit
  22. matth76
  23. matth76
    Thanks for your replies. My car has no problem starting at all - sounds normal there's just the additional screeching noise now which is very brief and a couple of seconds after the engine has started. Bit odd. I'm seeing the Phirm Saturday so will see what they say. It seems to be coming from the centre of the engine but not sure. If it's the tensioner bolt is that bad but easy to fix... what could cause it? Any other possible causes of the noise? What does the auxiliry belt do and if that is slipping is it expensive to fix?
  24. matth76
    Not sure. It only lasts for a fraction of a sec. It could be either side. It is audiable from inside the car above the engine noise and always only just after turning the ignition on. Occasionally it doesn't happen though.
  25. matth76
    I'd get an all steel crank - or what ever the strongest forged material is.
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