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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    Not unless you like breathing in oil fumes. They are nothing to do with temps but some people like to keep their throttlebodies free from oil residue.
  2. mightyvr6
    If your taking the front end off for better access, good idea to replace the 2 small hoses that run from the crack pipe to the oil cooler and the oil cooler seals.
  3. mightyvr6
    The red leads from VW are made by Beru and are about
  4. mightyvr6
    I think it may continue to run when the ignition is off if the engine is over a certain temperature.
  5. mightyvr6
    Thats the auxiliary water pump. It runs when the ignition is on.
  6. mightyvr6
  7. mightyvr6
    Essex
  8. mightyvr6
    Mine is a bit like that. Wonder if the pedal's arm needs greasing where it pivots?
  9. mightyvr6
    You might want to replace the gearbox mount too as the failure of that coolant pipe is most likely caused by excessive movement of the engine due to a worn out mount.
  10. mightyvr6
    Agree with MrBen, buy a standard clutch from A VW dealer. These cheaper ones from eurocarparts and gsf are not up to VW quality.
  11. mightyvr6
    That information is correct. I had the same problem with corrosion and replaced the cylinder head.
  12. mightyvr6
    I think you actually loose boost with 268s because of the overlap. 248s or 256s are good forced induction cams.
  13. mightyvr6
    I used to have one (zr2) and it ran great. Good power too, about 260-70 hp at the crank and can be tweeked to about 280 hp with 256 cams and rechip.
  14. mightyvr6
    Yes to your first question. The tappets should be quieter after an oil change. Not sure about the flat spot.
  15. mightyvr6
    don't see how it could be seized if it's brand new unless the engine was run without the oil feed on. Hmm........
  16. mightyvr6
    does sound like a cv joint.
  17. mightyvr6
    You can definitely feel the extra weight in the steering although I'm not sure if the ride quality is affected as I went form 15" to 17" alloys at the same time which definitely caused the ride to be more crashey over bumps than it was before. So I can't say whether it's being caused by heavier wheels/lower profile tyres or weight of the brakes. Might be better to go for 16" rims to try and preserve a bit of ride quality. Overall they are worth it for the extra stopping power. Fitting is the same as changing standard brakes, except for the use of longer bolts and spacers.
  18. mightyvr6
    The parts cost: Disks callipers/carriers, pads
  19. mightyvr6
    The rod bolts are different to the head bolts. The rod bolts hold the con rods together on the crankshaft. The head bolts are longer and clamp the cylinderhead to the engine block. ARP make both sets of bolts for a vr6. The arp head bolts are studs and are fastened using nuts which is differnet to normal stretch bolts with have heads (like a normal bolt).
  20. mightyvr6
    Might be worth fitting some uprated con rod bolts (arp). I reckon you need at least 8-10 psi to get 300hp on standard compression.
  21. mightyvr6
    I'd just replace it with a rubber hose. Second option is to get the part from Ford where I believe it's cheaper.
  22. mightyvr6
    have u vag-commed it?
  23. mightyvr6
    blue temp sensor?
  24. mightyvr6
    Metal gasket is definitely better although I've got a normal paper gasket and that seem ok after doing 30,000+ s/c miles. Maybe fit some racing headstuds too so the gasket is well clamped down and you won't have to change them if you decide in the future to lower the compresiion.
  25. mightyvr6
    If your not goin over 10 psi I'd say fit a standard head gasket. If you fit a low comp gasket you will need an even smaller pulley to get the same power.
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