Jump to content

mightyvr6

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    814

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    Not sure what degree standard cams are but they are well suited to FI. I would have thought you'll be looking at 320 + with that setup. Afterall a stage 2 with no other mods should make 290-300.
  2. mightyvr6
    Try posting on www.the-corrado.net/forum . Some very knowledgeable guys on there who might be able to help.
  3. mightyvr6
    I can see why you bought the cams as they go well with the schrick manifold (like you say you weren't at that stage considering the charger) but 248s or 256s are best suited for FI. Otherwise your setup sounds superb. What power are you hoping for?
  4. mightyvr6
    I don't think 268 cams are suitable for forced induction as you'll lose boost because of the overlap. Not too sure about the double headgasket (isn't the vf stage 3 designed to run on standard compression?) If you lower compression you'll need a smaller pulley to achieve the same boost which encourages belt slippage. I'd say it's best to leave the compression alone and built the motor strong. If you're going for a big power a vortech v1 or 2 would be better suited.
  5. mightyvr6
    splicing it is ok.
  6. mightyvr6
    The maf can be postioned on either side of the charger but before the charger is best (linear airflow, better readings and fueling, better driveability etc.) The smoke on start up is the car just running a bit rich (mine does the same) caused by the warm up cycle and nothing to worry about.
  7. mightyvr6
    The maf should be located before the supercharger. Putting the maf upstream of the charger is wrong imo.
  8. mightyvr6
    Sounds like the noise is from the check valve between the pcv and carbon canister. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to pulse to allow excess fuel vapour to flow into the inlet manifold. Basically it's (carbon canister/valve) to do with emissions. You can remove the carbon canister to make a cold air feed or possibly install the ducting next to the radiator.
  9. mightyvr6
    I think they charge about
  10. mightyvr6
    Could be the starter motor overrunning or not disengaging properly after the engine fires
  11. mightyvr6
    Could be a few things: leads, plugs, a sensor. Best to plug in diagnostics as suggested. I certainly wouldn't buy it its current state.
  12. mightyvr6
    Maybe it has a boost leak. Make sure all the hoses are clamped up properly. Was it a bit jerky on the throttle?
  13. mightyvr6
    Yes that was my understanding too but it also means that the car ahould always make around 284 hp even in v warm conditions. Without water injection power will decrease on hot days when charge temp increases more than normal.
  14. mightyvr6
    A clutch won't do anything for you powerwise. All you want it to do is to operate smoothly. Ask yellowslc about the flywheel. Think he can get them for a v good price. Costs about
  15. mightyvr6
    Don't bother it'll just drop oil on the exhaust manifold and create oil fumes inside the car.
  16. mightyvr6
    People with sachs and luk clutches have experienced a lot of clutch judder. The VW clutch is better designed and manufactured and will give a nice smooth operation. Worth the extra money. I've got a luk clutch and it's really juddery! Incidently, my clutch was replaced at 80k. You can fit a lighter flywheel (fidanza) which will make the car rev faster and give a bit better response.
  17. mightyvr6
    Get a standard clutch from VW. Don't get a sachs or Luk clutch.
  18. mightyvr6
    Hopefully it's nothing major. Probably the aux water pump but some pics should clarify that. Has any work been done on the coolant system recently? I was thinking there could be an airlock in the system - is the water bubbling in the expansion tank?
  19. mightyvr6
    It's not normal imo. The noise your hearing could be the aux water pump rather than the coil which is located in the place you describe and can get noisy with age. Does the car run hot or overheat?
  20. mightyvr6
    The cam sensor, idle stabiliser valve, maf if they're cheap.
  21. mightyvr6
    Yes the part should be the same.
  22. mightyvr6
    I'm not sure on price. The engine isn't removed. The bolts can be removed from the engine mounts and the engine jacked up high enough to remove the pump.
  23. mightyvr6
    Yes. The noise is caused by the water pump pulley which isn't running truly as it's no longer balanced by the impeller. I'm sure I read that they are designed to leak if the impeller fails which explains the coolant leakage. The belt simply drives the pulley off the crank which spins the waterpump.
  24. mightyvr6
    Sounds like your water pump is knackered. The impeller in the pump has probably worn out. Slacken the belt and have a good feel of the pulley. If there's play in it, the pump has almost definitely had it. They cost about
  25. mightyvr6
    It's the cable with the yellow tag in the pic:
×
×
  • Create New...