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mightyvr6

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Everything posted by mightyvr6

  1. mightyvr6
    Alpina527 enlarged my 2.9 TB used a larger~68mm butterfly. Excellent workmanship.
  2. mightyvr6
    The 2.8 TB has a lip or ramp on one side to make the throttle response more progressive. The 2.9 TB doesn't have this ramp so is said to be less restrictive.
  3. mightyvr6
    You can reset it yourself. Details should be in the owners handbook.
  4. mightyvr6
    ARP are your best bet. Reusable and they will make a better seal as they're not stretch bolts. Mines a rado so I'm not sure it would fit very easily as everything is a bit cramped. Thanks for the offer but I think I'll go with water injection as it's more compact and easier to install.
  5. mightyvr6
    Yes that amounts to the same thing then. SS spacer with 2 oem gaskets. The spacer isnt actually glued/fixed to the gaskets so you just install the gasket-spacer-gasket then bolt the head down and torque to oem spec.
  6. mightyvr6
    I wouldn't bother with a copper gasket (if you want to lower teh compression) Just get a proper head spacer from c2 motorsports which consists of a stainless steel spacer with 2 oem gaskets on either side.
  7. mightyvr6
    Synta gold is a bit thin really. The vr6 just burns it and it makes the engine sound very rattley. 10w 40 or 10/15w 50 would be ideal if it was readily available.
  8. mightyvr6
    As apd says it's the aux water pump.
  9. mightyvr6
    I think you can get some more low down power/torque with the right choice of cams so you can get more air into the engine in the lower rev range + a remap to suit.
  10. mightyvr6
    I reckon the maf is dead. I've had the short-earth fault code on my maf and it was knackered.
  11. mightyvr6
    The coolant temp sensor (G62) (the blue one in the thermostat housing) affects fueling. If this bit isn't working you'll get lumpy running because of overfuelling. It's a fairly cheap part so is definitely worth changing. Check the wiring first though. A faulty airflow meter (G70) will cause poor running, bad economy and lack of power. Its an expensive part -
  12. mightyvr6
    VW dealers will sell you the plastic one but the metal tool (Hazet part no.T10029) is best. Some dealers will sell you the metal one but others won't as it only supposed to be available to mechanics.
  13. mightyvr6
    You may hav a problem there but my pump has been audible (not noisy) for ages so yours could have some life left in it. Try changing the fuel filter and see if it quietens down.
  14. mightyvr6
    I wonder if they damaged the cam sender wheel when they took the sprocket off the cam. This part should be changed as they have a tendency to break. Stealth would have changed this part and the lower chains and tensioners. BTW matth76 I'm not saying that this issue with the timing chains is causing your flat spot. I'm not sure if it would or not, just offering a possible cause. I suppose your garage would check the timing by removing the intake manifold and cam cover and checking if the cams line up. Probably no more than a couple of hours labour.
  15. mightyvr6
    Usually everything is changed. Not much point pulling everything to bits then doing half a job. The bottom tensioner doesn't wear as much as the top - that is true but it does wear. I only mentioned this as my mate changed all his guides and tensioners (top and bottom) but not the chains and he couldn't get the cams to line up. The conclusion was the chains must have been slightly stretched so he put new ones in and the timing was spot on.
  16. mightyvr6
    You might be right there Fabio. My Bora, once warmed up never shifts from 90 deg. on the guage even in traffic whilst my vr guage moves around a bit depending on weather and if the car is moving or at a standstill.
  17. mightyvr6
    Maybe change the sender, just to check if it's the guage that is at fault.
  18. mightyvr6
    Have you done a coolant flush and removed all the crap out of the radiator? You might want to invest in an oil cooler but 90 isn't all that high to be honest. Get some water wetter in there too - v good stuff. Does anyone know what temp the standard and neuspeed thermostats opens at?
  19. mightyvr6
    I think you mentioned that only the upper chain and tensioner was changed. You might find that the timing is slightly out as there is some chain stretch and wear on the bottom tensioner but I'm not sure this would cause a flatspot in the rev range.
  20. mightyvr6
    Theres nothing wrong with running on high octane fuel (apart from the cost) Its actually better running it on super than ordinary unleaded. Your car will run better and give more power on higher octane fuel but you have to work out whether the extra cost is justified for a few bhp gain.
  21. mightyvr6
    There's a list on the corrado forum: http://www.the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7209
  22. mightyvr6
    One here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-VR6-1994-ENGINE_W0QQitemZ4600957158QQcategoryZ9889QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem and here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VR6-Engine_W0QQitemZ4600952132QQcategoryZ9889QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  23. mightyvr6
    2.9 has the code ABV but is essentially the same as the AAA apart from the extra capacity. Auto - don't think it matters - the block and head are the same. There will be a few bits to swap over but you've got these already on your own engine.
  24. mightyvr6
    I don't think it matters. You just swap your air con bracket and other bits over.
  25. mightyvr6
    Yes. All engines are the same apart from a few obd 2 specific parts whch you'll be able to swap over from your old engine.
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