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antera309

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Everything posted by antera309

  1. antera309
    I found it easier to do the job with the indicators and foglamps off the car as it gave me another hole in the bumper I could stick my hands through to manouver things around! I noticed a definite improvement in the pickup after fitting the cold air pipe, especially at speed on the motorway. It also muted the induction noise a bit. Again, good for motorway cruising. Your install looks pretty neat too. The end-piece on your pipe looks different to the one I was supplied with. [ Edited Wed Jun 02 2004, 10:07PM ]
  2. antera309
    Yes, the outside temp sensor plugs into this lower grill, but it's at the end closest to the numberplate, so the sensor is not disrupted at all. To remove the bumper, first take off the front grille (including the metal bit that goes underneath the headlamps). You will see 3 10mm bolts in the top of the bumper between the headlamps. Remove these. Then look on the underside of the bumper below the numberplate. More 10mm bolts here (5, I think). On the rear edge of the bumper, under the front wheelarch, there are two plastic retainers which fix the bumper to the wheelarch liner. Remove these
  3. antera309
    Thanks!! I have already emailed it to Pete in HTML format for inclusion in the guides section.
  4. antera309
    Oh god, yes. I forgot to mention that this guide only applies to cars without aircon. I have edited the procedure so that it makes this clear now. If you've got aircon, the evaporator and drier obstruct the offside front corner of the car behind the bumper & grille. For cars with aircon, the carbon canister would DEFINITELY have to come out, and even then the installation will be tricky. Use flexible rubber hose instead of the supplied aluminium hose, and you've got a chance. [ Edited Wed Jun 02 2004, 10:28PM ]
  5. antera309
    The end result looks like this when you've cut & shaped the lower grille cover: [ Edited Wed Jun 02 2004, 08:18PM ]
  6. antera309
    And here's how to do it without removing the Carbon Canister. This is for a BMC CDA, but the PiperX Viper should be similar. Note that this procedure only applies to cars WITHOUT air-con. Refer to Guides section - BMC CDA Installation for full procedure with pictures. [ Edited Thu Jun 03 2004, 10:19AM ]
  7. antera309
    ROFL. So true, so true.
  8. antera309
    I got 210bhp and 207lb/ft from fitting a Schrick Manifold and Schrick 264 cams, then getting it custom remapped. And that was with an otherwise standard, average milage engine still running the stock exhaust system (!) For comparison, the later-spec Audi S3 (and the TT Quattro, come to that) produces 225bhp and 207lb ft. The conversion cost £1100 for the manifold, £640 for the cams & £550 for the remap and fitting. A lot of money, but you're getting the performance of a £15,000 car. And the performance is so usable too. The manifold works by increasing the effective inlet tract length at
  9. antera309
    I think I'm gonna get one. Then we'll get to see if there's a loss of torque at the RR day.
  10. antera309
    Kilokilla is right. There are a whole load of sensors etc which could be causing this behaviour. A VAG diagnosis is the best way to go. Start by replacing the bits that this flags up.
  11. antera309
    Have you got a voltmeter? It's always worth checking the output from your alternator is OK before replacing a battery. If it isn't, your new battery will go the same way. The battery has never run flat in my Golf, but in some other cars I've had the relays for ignition, ABS etc. did click like mad when the battery was flat.
  12. antera309
    Come to think of it, I once had the same problem on the passenger side front wheel too. Got a slimmer girlfriend. Problem never re-appeared. [ Edited Sat May 29 2004, 12:52AM ]
  13. antera309
    I had exactly the same problem after fitting my 7.5x17s - rubbing on one side only. Took the car into AmD and they did a 4-wheel alignment. No parts were replaced. Car has been fine ever since. Apparently there is a left-right adjustment on the rear beam. This is worth checking out. Even if your wheels are the wrong offset, they would rub the same on both sides, assuming of course that the car is evenly loaded. [ Edited Sat May 29 2004, 12:50AM ]
  14. antera309
    The throttle body has gotta be worth a go. It will continue to be a benefit even if you go supercharged later on.
  15. antera309
    I have Tar-ox G88 40-groove discs . These are fitted so that the inner (i.e. closest to the hub) end of each groove hits the pad first. This pic shows the rear, but they are the same way round on the front: Tar-ox's instructions made it quite clear that this is the correct way to fit them. Perhaps the Pagid discs are fitted the other way round to Tar-Ox ones, but why would they be? All grooved discs follow the same principle. Every set of grooved disks I've seen are fitted this way. [ Edited Sat May 29 2004, 12:24AM ]
  16. antera309
    In the name of experimentation, I tried extracting the maximum possible economy from the car on my way home from work today (took quite a bit of restraint!). Went light on the throttle and used high gears, but I couldn't get btter than 25mpg whatever I did. Not that I'm complaining. Have had a permanent grin on my face since Wednesday!! [ Edited Sat May 29 2004, 12:02AM ]
  17. antera309
    The only problem I've had since picking my car up on Wednesday was the vacuum hose coming off the actuator on the Schrick yesterday. I've secured it with a clip now. Couldn't be happier with the performance. It pulls hard from 2500rpm now, rather than from 4000rpm as before. BIG hit on the fuel economy though. Down from an average 28mpg to 23mpg. There is further to go with conventional tuning. The throttle body remains the most restrictive part of the intake. I reckon changing it for an AmD big-bore one would liberate even more horses. A group buy on superchargers would be a great idea
  18. antera309
    One of those AmD throttle bodies is well worth considering. Gotta be worth another 7bhp. [ Edited Fri May 28 2004, 10:43PM ]
  19. antera309
    Please let us know how the conversion goes, just2zang. I'm sure lots of people would be interested in doing this.
  20. antera309
    Have you done this conversion to your car?
  21. antera309
    Schrick & 264 cams is a very subtle performance improvement, it has to be said. If you're after a real "kick in the back", s/c is the way to go. Or turbo if you're really brave! [ Edited Thu May 27 2004, 02:45PM ]
  22. antera309
    I always go for Kenwood or Alpine head units. The Alpines in particular have a really nice rich sound. Not as expensive as they used to be either. Hard-disk based MP3 units are still ridiculously expensive. The CD-based units still hold 100+ tracks on 1 CD. And MP3-capable CD boot loaders are available too if you want 500+ tracks on-line at once. How about something like this?: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18798&item=5701722622&rd=1 [ Edited Thu May 27 2004, 10:00AM ]
  23. antera309
    Do you have his contact details?
  24. antera309
    I use GSF's Luton branch, and most of their staff lack vital knowledge. GSF are a valuable source for cheap parts, but you have to know *exactly* what you want, you can't rely on them to advise you, unfortunately. Ultimately, this often means a game of trial and error. Having the VW ETKA parts catalog helps.
  25. antera309
    I second that. Stealth are a professional, friendly and trustworthy outfit. A "breath of fresh air" in the auto repair/modification industry. 5 Star recommendation.
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